Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse

How To Post Images

Want to know the how to upload images to your posts? Image Posting Tutorial
See more
See less

Sliding table on TS2424?

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Sliding table on TS2424?

    I'm currently doing some very carefull research prior to purchasing a contractors type table saw.
    I've decided upon the Powermatic 64A.
    I keep looking back at this TS2424 though. I quit looking when I realize that creating a sliding table for the left side would need to be less than conventional due to the guide rails being in the way.
    Lack of t-slots cut in the miter grooves is also a shortcoming.
    I like the left tilt arbor. It shouldn't be any other way. I can live with the less than average left and right rip capacity and non-TEFC motor.
    I may still consider this saw if I can get some feedback that would depict a left side sliding table setup for this saw that wasn't completely Rube Goldberg!
    I wonder if that excellent TS2424 caster system would fit on a Powermatic 64A and lift same without breaking?

  • #2
    Rob, I'm a little confused...

    To mount a sliding table (like an Excalibur) to a 64a, you remove the left extension wing, and cut off the Accufence rails flush with the table. Then mount the slider. In this picture: http://www.powermatic.com/catalogs/s...mages/64ta.jpg , if you squint just right, you can see the seam between the main table and the extension, that is where the slider will mount.

    On a TS2424, you can do just the same thing, remove the left wing and cut off the fence rails. http://www.ridgid.com/woodworking/pr...TS24241_bg.gif is not quite as good a view as the Powermatic pic, but still you can see the wing's location. If you wanted to, you could also slide the rails on the Ridgid down (I think you would have to drill new holes for the rear rail?), and have a longer than stock fence, you would of course have to replace the measuring tape.

    I prefer not having T-slots myself. Removing a miter gauge from a T-slotted saw gripes me to no end, but I realize many people like them.

    "less than average left...rip capacity" If you mount a sliding table, your left rip capacity drops to zero... Left rip isn't much of a necessity on a left tilt saw anyway.

    My Jet 18" bandsaw uses the same spec motor as the 64a. I strongly recommend wiring it to 220v, on a 110v 20a circuit, it can easily throw the breaker.

    Dave

    Comment


    • #3
      Rob, I'm not quite sure where you are coming from when you talk about "creating a sliding table" for a TS2424 unless you are planning on making one from scratch. I'm an owner of this saw and have been strongly considering the Rockler sliding table. To see how this looks and attaches look here:
      http://www.woodshopdemos.com/rklr-1.htm

      Not a bad price either. You also mention less than average rip capacity. 24 rip on the right side with a left tilt saw is pretty common. If you added a sliding table such as the Rockler version and slid the fence rails to the right, you'd pick up around another 20" or so of rip capacity and perhaps not have to saw the rails at all.

      I've always been curious why people are concerned with such a humongus rip capacity. I can't think of many projects where I needed to throw a 48" peice of material on the table to rip it to 47". Not even mentioning the wingspan/footprint on your saw. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking you but just want to put a bug in your ear about how much rip capacity you really need? A weenie like me can't even throw 4x8x 3/4 sheet of plywood around any more by myself.

      As for the t-slot miter gage, no thanks. I don't consider this a biggy.
      Dick

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey just another thought about cutting your rails. The first reply mentioned sliding the rails down which by the way you CAN do on the front AND real rail which does throw the tape measure on the rail off. However, Ridgid has an accessory set of rails and fence called Retro-Rip-Fence that are essentially the same rails and fence as what comes on the TS2424. The difference is that the rails with the retro unit have the tape set for 12" right and 36" left which sounds like what you might want in order to add a left slide table. Price on the rails is normally $149 but have seen posts here as low as $50 (Home Depot clearance I guess) Good luck!
        - Tim

        Comment


        • #5
          Just a correction to my last post...the tape is set 12" LEFT and 36" RIGHT not the other way around...haven't had my coffee yet
          - Tim

          Comment


          • #6
            Rob: Your idea of add a sliding table to the TS-2424 is not a bad Idea, as long as you are able to keep it inline. A sliding table is more likely to get out of alinement. Then you have the cost. If you think about how often you would need a large left rip cap. to the times you dont. I might suggest you build a cut off slaid. I dont think you can go wrong with the TS-2424. You can spend more but will you get more. The best to you in what ever choise you make.
            Regards Daniel Maloney

            Comment


            • #7
              Rob: I have already purchased and installed the Rockler sliding table on my TS2424 and am very pleased with its performance. As others have stated I merely slid the front and back fence rails all the way to the right, well up to the left table edge. Removed the existing Ridgid tape measure and installed a new stick on left to right reading tape. I also moved the left extension to the right side. Now I have plenty of capacity on the right side and the added features of a sliding table. It all works very well on the TS2424.

              Comment

              Working...
              X