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  • Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

    I've just assembled my new 4511 Granite-top table saw. Whew! I'm now doing the alignment and have run into a situation where I cannot adjust the table top enough to get the saw blade parallel to the miter slot. The 4 bolts holding the top to the cabinet are as loose as I can make them. Has anyone else had this problem? Solution?


  • #2
    Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

    Did you make sure to remove the bolt to the ground strap?

    Also try removing the top bolts altogether, but I cant see why you would need to (how far off was it, stock? i think i needed to move mine about 1/32" so there was plenty of play where the top bolts were located)


    • #3
      Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

      <Blush> Thanks for your suggestion. I have now released the ground strap, and am closer to an acceptable alignment. I have about 1/8" to go. I may have brought this problem on by removing the top completely when moving the saw into my workshop. I have two large washers that I'd forgotten to reinstall when I refastened the top. When my helper returns, I'll remove the top and install the washers, which may give me more play for alignment. There is nothing in the manual showing which fasteners these washers are used on. Do you know?


      • #4
        Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

        I removed my top to move the saw also.

        The parts you are talking about are shims to help align the table top "vertically" along the blade (big thread on this forum on the geometry of it all, nutshell is that once the blade is tilted, if the table top isnt aligned correctly you could have a situation where the front of the cut is at a different angle than the back)

        The shims may affect the alignment you are playing with, but Im not sure how much (depends on how many shims you need/are missing).

        1/8" seems like an awful lot to be out of parallel.......makes me wonder if the shims really are that important in your case.


        • #5
          Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

          I agree with Chris. I have recently put together my second R4511, and both times I removed the top since I was assembling by myself. Even with the groundstrap attached, the top only needed to move about 1/32 .
          I can't figure out why yours would be so far off.

          You might want to make sure that your blade is at 90 degrees.


          • #6
            Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

            In the end, I decided to start from scratch, and stripped the saw down to how I received it. I removed the top, then replaced it and went through the blade alignment procedure. I was able to find just enough "play" to align the top correctly. Having done that, I noted that the top was skewed in relation to the cabinet, but no one will see that anyway. I'm still curious as to why I seem to be the only one encountering this difficulty, but I won't lose any sleep over it. I just tested the saw by cross-cutting some 1 1/2" maple with my Freud 80 tooth blade. No burning and the cut is like glass, so life is good.

            Chris and Cato, thanks for your advice, and I hope that others will post if they've encountered this issue.



            • #7
              Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

              If the top is skewed to the cab, then I am guessing that it was a alignment problem at the OEM when they drilled the granite top.

              Depending on how bad it is or if it bugs you, you could contact Ridgid or your HD and see if they can resolve it.


              • #8
                Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

                Well I just finished putting my R4511 together.
                I paid $425.00 after negotiation at the local HD. I could not find it anywhere on HD website but I suddenly found it for $799.00. Then now I cannot find it again on HD website.
                The first one arrived with a broken table, broken in two.
                Home Depot replaced it with out any problem
                For the second one, being by myself I removed the table all together. I noticed that the belt pulley on the motor was a good 1/4 off. I tried and tried to loose the set screw to align the pulley .I broke one Allen wrench and twisted tow other on but I could not get it loose even after I applied heat to it (thinking it might be loctited). I ended up tapping it in line, now I am afraid that it might move by itself.
                I am a mechanic by trade for about 30 years. I also I used to have my own business as cabinet maker.
                I read a guy who wrote that he put a similar saw together in less than 4 hours.
                I took the best part of two days (in my garage in 20 degrees temperature. It was so cold that my beer froze in the glass!!!)
                I was very impressed by the trunnion, a beautiful piece of casting, solid and very well designed and machined.
                I am impressed by the the quality of the saw in general but the instruction to assemble it, really suck big time ,especially for the lift.

                I did not check the blade alignment before removing the top , now I wished I did as when I put it back I cannot perfectly align it. I loose the table screws and the also the trunnion ones yet something it catching somewhere and the alignment is close but not perfect. I shall wait for warmer weather to investigate the problem more deeply.

                If necessary it should be very easy to replace the motor with a bigger one.
                I have concerns about the granite top, I wish I could have get a cast iron one, I would feel more comfortable with. The granite top at the center is quite thin ( may 3/8”), and already I read of some of them cracking. In addition the stops for the blade angles are screwed right into the granite top, I wonder want will happen if some one apply too much pressure against them.

                This is a lovely machine and excellent for the price.
                I just wonder if a cast iron top will be made available.


                • #9
                  Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

                  I, too, removed the top in order to assemble the tool since I was doing it myself. In retrospect, I would re-align the top to the blade when I put the middle piece back on the cabinet, before attaching the wing. It would be much easier. I also had the problem James T described above when I only loosen the four anchor bolts by one or two turns. Alignment is easier when I loosen them almost completely.

                  My tabletop is shimmed at two corners with two thin shims for each of these corners. I made a note of where they were and reinstalled them to the same corners when I reinstalled the top.


                  • #10
                    Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

                    Check out this post. It was very helpful setting mine up.



                    • #11
                      Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

                      I had the same problem. I ended up having to drill out the four holes on the cabinet to give me enough top movement to get the blade square. I too did not check it before taking the top off to unload the saw... Oh well, it's pretty near perfect now... and I really like the saw.


                      • #12
                        Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

                        Having problems with the getting 90 degrees squared away as well. I need to take the table to back and to the left. Is off some where from 1/8 to 1/16 from the front of the blade to the back.

                        Currently I have the wings installed and it has allot of play, but not in the direction I need it in. My front left bolt does not have any play in it. The two front bolts each have two shims (rightly or wrongly if I ever get to the 45 degrees test).

                        I took off the top to when moving it, some of the attachment points where sanded and some where not. My guess is that the front left is not sanded and the weld is restricting its play.

                        I also tried loosening the Trunnions, but the back ones wont move with everything installed or I need a 14mm deep socket.

                        Not sure what I am going to now, but probably take off the wings and top see whats under the hood. Could try move the Trunnions or enlarge any bolt hole to have more play.


                        • #13
                          Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

                          Ok I took every appart. First things I did was loosen the Trunnions (18mm sock on top)and slightly over compensate for the direction I needed.

                          Note when loosening the Trunnions, the middle part (motor) is wedged between the front and back, with no screws. If the gap is too big the motor falls out and go boom. Mine almost dropped during the alignment, its heavy to hold and lift with one hand as you try to slide fit it back into the Trunnions. You also have to maike sure the left and right side are equally into the Trunnion. I would only mess with these again if I had to.

                          I then did the 90 degree blade alignment without the top on.

                          Fun thing my theory on a bad weld was wrong. Everything had play on the top screw hole without on the top on. Placed the top on, had a hard time getting over the holes. When on the holes, it would not move freely to the left again. Looked under the table, hmm some screw looks like its keep the table up. Look at the table, its the 90 degree set screw. Unloosen that an the table moves freely again.

                          Aligning to 90 degrees then took a few minutes. Then the dreaded 45 degree test. Pretty off. The back need raising or the front needed lowering. Odd thing is the front was shimmed from the factory, at least that is what I remember and restored it too. Instead of taking this all off again, I shimmed the back of the table, and retested. Near perfect, at least for my test.

                          2 washers under the left back and 3 in the right back (need 2.5 probably), retested and tightened it all up.

                          My test was to mount a 45 square on the miter and equally but barely touch the saw tooths on the blade. With a metal square, it made a pitch sound that indicated how light of heavy it touched when sliding by. When in alignment, the pitches where the same across the teeth with the square just barely touching the blade.

                          Tomorrow back to the wings.


                          • #14
                            Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

                            KingofSpain, What do you mean you did the 90 degree alighment with the table top off of the saw?

                            Me. I got my saw in January during the closeout and thought it was set up pretty well, even if I had to enlargen some of the bolt holes with a rat tail file ala Iamwealty2. Just got a TS-Aligner Jr. to discover why I wasn't too pleased with my cuts. (This sucker is dead accurate.)

                            I set it up with an inexpensive machinist's square and rafter square. The outfeed end of the fence was .011" to the right of parallel to the mitre slot and the blade was .022". My arbor shaft was under .001" and it had less then .001" of runout.

                            Anyway, there is no way I can true up the blade alignment any better than .018" front to back of blade and that isn't acceptable. I was going to mess with the trunnions, but based on your post I will try to avoid messing with them. Instead, I am going to use that file to enlarge some of the other table bolt holes.


                            • #15
                              Re: Problem with blade alignment: R4511 Table Saw

                              I pretty well have the first part of alignment done, setting the mitre channel paralell to a vertical blade. I left the trunions alone, although I think the problem was that they didn't shift but were sllightly skewed when installed at the factory.

                              The problem I was encountering turned out to be that even with the holes enlarged the top couldn't be trued, because the right side of the washers for the two rear table bolts were preventing the top from being slid to the right. Grinding flat spots on one side of those two washers did the trick and it now heels .001" to the right of the rear of the blade.

                              Now to true the top with the blade canted 45 degrees.