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Cases for my tools

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  • Cases for my tools

    I have finally given up hope that Ridgid will ever come out with nice cases. I've decieded to try and make my own. My 1st case I want to build is 4 my Ridgid Worm Gear saw. Not being a avid wood worker I was wondering if you guys could give me some ideas as too how I should construct a good sturdy box. I want it to have a carrying handle on top and a hinged opening on top. What type of wood should I be considering to use 4 this project? How can I make a nice box using a router (&table), a circular saw, jig saw, and drill? thanks

  • #2
    Re: Cases for my tools

    Try this for the inside support, baltic birch is the best material to build the box
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      Re: Cases for my tools

      why dont u just buy a case from another company?

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Cases for my tools

        Well seeing how I am just a home owner who has all these tools and my wife is always saying "why do you need that?" I figured it would be a fairly easy project to complete and also be self rewarding. Along with providing a easier way to keep my tools stored on the shelf.

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        • #5
          Re: Cases for my tools

          WBrooks, I just read your pdf file. What a great idea with the landscape fab and the expanding foam. I'll be sure to be trying this idea.

          I ran to the hardware store today and bought a sheet of 3/4 birch plywood. I think this will work perfect for making of the box. Got the expanding foam plus some hinges.

          Can someone give me some ideas on the best way to join the corners of the box together? I thought about cutting them at a 45 and glueing them together along with putting a couple of brads in to hold them.

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          • #6
            Re: Cases for my tools

            45's are tricky because any deviation from exactly 45 will present itself as a gap in the joint. If you have a router or table saw I would consider cutting dados. Cut a 3/4 wide dado (same thickness as your plywood - check this dimension closely as plywood may be undersized) and 3/8" deep dado in each end of the long sides (usually hinge and handle sides) then the short sides fit in the dados. Cut a 3/8" deep and 3/4" wide dado around the entire top and bottom. See illustrations for clarification (I hope).
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              Re: Cases for my tools

              I second wbrooks for the joinery.

              If you were using solid wood (ie, not ply) I might recommend box joints. They're considerably more tedious then rabbeting the edges together, though.

              You could still use box joints, they just don't look as nice with ply.

              Cheers,
              --Jeff

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              • #8
                Re: Cases for my tools

                Your 1st imagine labeled "sides" Won't I still see part of the plywood sticking out the sides? Or is this just inevitable?

                Your 2nd picture is excatly what I was thinking about for the lid and the bottom. In fact I found these 2 videos by the same guy showing how to make a small box. Using the same technique used in this video will I still be able to attach the lid as shown? Only difference is I wouldn't router the back edge of the box and instead mount hinges inside the box.
                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osOXOZIVOv8
                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZwURnryZ3I

                Finally in this video the guys puts a strip of ebony in his lid which looks really cool. I think I'm going to try this just to be trying it. Where would I find strips of decorative wood? Thanks for all your help so far.

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                • #9
                  Re: Cases for my tools

                  Seeing the sides is pretty much inevitable. Remember this is a plywood box meant to transport tool so it will get beat up a bit. Seeing the plywood layers is not that bad (not fine furniture), I think the tight gap free layers of Baltic birch look nice. Use an 1/8" round over to break all the edges to avoid catches and splinters. Coat it with a good exterior spar urethane and enjoy for years to come. You could also finish with an opaque exterior stain to help hide the plywood layers

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                  • #10
                    Re: Cases for my tools

                    Ur right it is just a tool box. (i'm being too picky) Last quick question. I own the Ridgid 2hp router and the same craftsman router table shown in the video. Or course the router holes don't line up with the tables holes for mounting. Do I get an adapter or just drill holes in the table?

                    I'm going to try and start this project 2night. I'll keep u updated.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Cases for my tools

                      I had a similar table to that. Mine was reinforced around the mounting holes and VERY thin in the table area. If you can line up 2 of the 3 holes then maybe drill the third if it does not line up on a reinforcing rib. I would try to use the predrilled holes in the front of the table (in the wood path) and drill behind the fence. The problem will be tapering the hole enough to let the mounting screw sit flush AND have enough 'meat' in the table to support the router. You could make an adapter plate out of a chunk of that baltic birch. you will need to counter sink both the bolts that mount the router to the wood and the nuts that will hold the wood to the router table. If you can find blind nuts the right size it would be stronger than sinking a regular size nut.

                      Blind Nut

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                      • #12
                        Re: Cases for my tools

                        My wife does embedded software development from home, so she is shipped electronics on a fairly regular basis. They do basically the same thing, they have polyurethane foam in bags, that they pack into cardboard boxes and let expand around the item they ship. It survives the Fedex trip, so there must be something to it.

                        I would just use butt joints with glue and screws, it is after all a toolbox. The screws/glue will hold it pretty darn well and if you paint it, the screws will be less obvious.

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                        • #13
                          Re: Cases for my tools

                          Seeing the sides is pretty much inevitable.
                          You could cover the corners with some brass or nickel plated corners or use some aluminum angle to cover them entire corner, protecting it from bumps and covering the box joints at the same time.
                          "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006

                          https://www.youtube.com/user/PowerToolInstitute

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                          • #14
                            Re: Cases for my tools

                            Depending on where you live, you can pick up free cases from pawn shops that throw them away because they were too lazy to match up the case with the tool. I have picked up many cases this way, and then retrofitted them with a Dremel multi tool and sprayable foam. Great stuff works fine.
                            Another option would be to just build the box with a Kreg pocket hole jig and glue. To protect the birch, buy some of the Herculiner truck bed coating(similar to Line X) and coat the entire box. That product will make your box very durable.

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                            • #15
                              Re: Cases for my tools

                              In the 2nd video I posted the guy uses thin strips of ebony for the inlay. Where do I find something like that at? I asked for it at the local hd and they looked at me like I was stupid. Which they r probably right.

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