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  • router table idea....is it a good one?

    I am exploring an idea that i would like to share. Wondering a few things....is this a good idea? does anyone see any problems that would have to be overcome (besides price)and is it something that anyone here would be interested in? (again, set the cost issue aside as i am sure it will be pricey).
    i know a few machinists and tool and die guys that said they might be willing to help me out.

    i want to get a piece of cast iron the same size as one of the extension tables on the 3612(to mount to the saw in place of an existing one, not in addition to one, i figure too much weight). set it up so a router can be mounted to it and
    it will have a groove machined in it so that the miter guide can be used as well as the fence to guide the work. the router can be dropped and the table can remain on the saw while using it to cut lumber. the only potential problem i see is the possibility of the work hanging up on the channel for the miter guide? any and all comments, ideas and problems are welcome. thanks
    \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

  • #2
    Those guys that want to mount their Router to the TS at present can go off and buy a commercially available table from Benchdog, Rockler etc., and either replace the left or right wing, or add it in the space to the right of the webbed wing.

    Alternatively, a number have made their own table and mounted it in one of these same positions. The advantage of these tables is that you are able to fit standard or home brew mounting plates to fit any style of router, you also have a wide variety of inserts available to suit various bit diameters.

    Fabricating in cast iron or aluminium is severly limiting as to what you can fit in the precast hole(s), and which routers can be attached to the limited screw holes that will be available.

    Because of the above, I can't see any advantage using a cast iron table over the commercially available or home brewed tables, I can only see limitations.

    Just my two pen'eth

    David

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    • #3
      David

      thanks for the reply. i have not seen any of these items you speak of that can mount to my ts3612. can i trouble you for a web link to any of the products you spoke of?

      thanks
      \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

      Comment


      • #4
        Hello,
        I have the Rockler router table insert that David mentions, installed in the right side of my TS3612. Works like a charm. Attaches directly to the rails of the fence and fits like a glove.

        I have a Bosch 1617evs router hanging in it, just raise and lower it as necessary. Provides a nice large surface to the right of the saw blade.

        One drawback though...no mitre track. I haven't seen the need for one yet, but that may come. Shouldn't be too tough to add one.

        If you want to see one go to "Rockler.com" and search on "router table"...you'll find it.

        Hope this helps.

        Tom.

        Comment


        • #5
          Here is another table saw mounted router table. So far, it is the cheapest I have seen around & supposed to be plenty sturdy. They claim it can hold the big 3 1/2HP routers with no sag in the table.

          http://www.mulecab.com/products.asp?mnu_Products=3

          Kevin

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          • #6
            This is the Benchdog model mounted to the left side, but can also be fitted to the right. Has T and miter slots if you need them. Pic shows it built into a Ridgid TS.
            There are numerous posts on WoodNet relating to homebrew tables built into the TS. You may want to search, if you have the odd 30 minutes or so!!

            http://www.benchdog.com/Products/Protop/RT250.htm

            David

            [ 03-14-2003, 11:28 AM: Message edited by: Cutbuff ]

            Comment


            • #7
              Just adding my 2 cents too. I have a solid cast table on my dewalt, and had an extra wing and had a machinist friend fit the wing to mount on the table and machine cut a 3" hole in it and drill and countersink holes for my router to mount to it. He welded a hood for the vacuum under the wing. Works GREAT!! also I can use my existing fence, which is solid. And I made a bridge out of 2 x 6 notched to cover the router bit.

              just another idea, not a new one though

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