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Blade guard on the R4511

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  • Blade guard on the R4511

    Silly question, but how do you take the blade guard off from the splitter? I can see the screw and nut holding the plastic guard to the splitter and I can reach for them with my fingers, but I can't seem to swing the guard out of the way where I can pull the screw out.

  • #2
    Re: Blade guard on the R4511

    Originally posted by sh2005 View Post
    Silly question, but how do you take the blade guard off from the splitter? I can see the screw and nut holding the plastic guard to the splitter and I can reach for them with my fingers, but I can't seem to swing the guard out of the way where I can pull the screw out.
    Never tried it, but from looking at it I don't think they designed it for on/off use.

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    • #3
      Re: Blade guard on the R4511

      Cato's correct. It's all one unit. If you have to make non through cuts, you have to remove the whole splitter/guard unit. I don't recommend this for anyone else, but I took mine apart, and cut the riving knife down so it sits about a 1/16" below the blade. That way I can keep it on for non through cuts. I ran my old saw for years without any guard or splitter, so this is a step up.
      Last edited by 3rdtime; 09-30-2009, 06:52 PM.

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      • #4
        Re: Blade guard on the R4511

        Originally posted by 3rdtime View Post
        Cato's correct. It's all one unit. If you have to make non through cuts, you have to remove the whole splitter/guard unit. I don't recommend this for anyone else, but I took mine apart, and cut the riving knife down so it sits about a 1/16" below the blade. That way I can keep it on for non through cuts. I ran my old saw for years without any guard or splitter, so this is a step up.

        ...cut the riving knife down so it sits about a 1/16" below the blade.

        As you said not for everyone. I am curious at what height did you cut the splitter to that you can use if for non-through cuts, as it would only work at the height and above. The other danger (for anyone thinking of trying this) is that as the blade is raised or lowered, the gap between the blade and the splitter will vary. The danger is that the piece you are cutting off can be damaged or could wedge between the blade and splitter since the gap would shrink or grow with blade height as the splitter is fixed. A modern TS with a riving knife operates with the knife only a fraction of an inch from the blade at all times.
        "When we build let us think we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work that our descendants will thank us for, and let us think, as we lay stone upon stone, that a time is to come when these stones will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, "See! This our fathers did for us."
        John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)

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        • #5
          Re: Blade guard on the R4511

          Bob D, I don't know what saw you have, but on the R4511, the "splitter" is actually a riving knife that is attached to an assembly that rides up and down with the blade. The riving knife sits back from the blade with about 1/4" clearance. Granted, this is farther than some riving knives, but it's a lot closer than a typical splitter assembly. This is why I could cut it to sit just below the blade, as this and the height dimension never changes in relation to the blade.

          Again, like you said, not for everyone.

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          • #6
            Re: Blade guard on the R4511

            Another alternative is to order a shark guard riving knife from LeeWay than you can mount for non thru cuts.
            I don't have one, probably will need one day but here is the link.
            http://www.leestyron.com/

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            • #7
              Re: Blade guard on the R4511

              I also removed the guard assembly and purchased thin and full cut riving knives. It also is an upgrade for me who was used to nothing before and one of the selling points for my purchasing of this saw.

              Big G

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              • #8
                Re: Blade guard on the R4511

                Thanks for the response, guys. I was wondering if I am failing to figure out a very simple thing.

                I have to go home and look at it, but I was thinking maybe I can drill a hole on blade guard, right where the screw is (the one that holds the guard to the splitter). Then, I can put a screwdriver threw that hole and a wrench/pliers on the other side for the nut.

                I prefer to keep the blade guard on if I can, except for when ripping narrow stocks.

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                • #9
                  Re: Blade guard on the R4511

                  I have been looking at mine and I think I will try to figure how to remove the plastic guard pin and replace it with something that I can remove fairly quickly. When you rip thin stock it is a pain in the rear.

                  Charles
                  Charles

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                  • #10
                    Re: Blade guard on the R4511

                    Well, instead of removing the blade guard, I decided to have it lifted up so that it is slightly higher than the stock. The modification is working out great. Once set, I don't need to readjust the height of the blade guard because the whole assembly moves with the blade. I also added a way to have the anti kickback pawls lifted up and out of the way when I need.

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