No announcement yet.

Good Circular Saw Plywood Blade?

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Good Circular Saw Plywood Blade?

    I ran into a problem the other night while cutting up some oak plywood to make a deep in the wall bathroom cabinet. I cut up a sheet of oak plywood oversized for the pieces I needed, with the intentions of final sizing them on my table saw (TS2400). I overlooked the fact that two of the pieces were 22 x 33" and max fence position is 25" and I don't have a sled big enough. The only way to finish the 33" dimension was to use my true-grip guide clamp and my 7-1/4" circular saw. I run with a 40 tooth blade but still got a bit of chipping at the blade exit.

    Has anyone used a dedicated plywood blade, 140 tooth, on veneered plywood and does this help the chipping? If so any recommendation on a decent sub $20 blade?

    I have thought of making a zero clearance platform to attach to the base of my circular saw when this situation comes up again, not sure if this will help.

    A buddy suggested routering along a guide to get the final dimension.

    Any insight is appreciated.
    Let me see... 1, 2, 3, 4.... Uh Oh.

  • #2
    Before I got my TS, I made some furniture and cabinets with my circ saw (I made do with what I had). In my experience, the important thing is to have a very sharp blade. You still get some chipout but it isn't nearly as nasty. I used a $18 "finishing" blade from Dewalt but probably anything will do as long as it is very sharp. You can only use the blade for a little before it gets dull enough to cause chipout. For this reason, don't do any cuts except furniture plywood with that blade and it may last 2-3 projects. Also, the perforated "plywood" blades aren't for furniture-grade cuts in case you hadn't guessed.

    I had the router thing suggested to me as well but didn't like it because a router can only take a little off or else you get chipout again.