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  • Jointer/planer

    I have an older Craftsman jointer/planer that I need some information on if anybody on here knows. It is a 6 1/8" Craftsman Model 113.206010. I'm sure it was made by Emerson/Rigid but don't know much else about it since I don't have the owner's manual. Does anyone have any information on this jointer (or an owner's manual I could copy)? I haven't been able to find an owner's manual on the internet or through Sears.

  • #2
    Re: Jointer/planer

    Look around here at the posted manuals and you may find it or something close enough

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    • #3
      Re: Jointer/planer

      FWIW, the 113 at the beginning of your model number does indicate that the jointer was indeed made by Emerson Electric. I would go to ridgid.com and take a look at the Owners Manual for the Ridgid jointer as it may well be very close to the one you have.
      ================================================== ====
      ~~Don't worry about old age; it doesn't last that long.

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      • #4
        Re: Jointer/planer

        First of all be careful even dull knives can cut you up but good,

        get a replacement set of knives, the same length and thickness and depth, or take them out and have them sharpened,

        you have a wedge, of some type, it either has set screws or bolts going into it or coming out of it or down from the top, loosen the screws, (depending on the type one may have to take a small block of wood and tap with a hammer to drive the wedge down and loose, then the knife more than likely will fall out, (some types have matching or mating ridges on the back to help lock the blade in,

        now to put in the new set, clean out the resin and built up of stuff, paint thinner may help or wd40, once cleaned up take the first slot, set the Gib, (wedge) into the slot, and then set the knife into the slot, (to the back of the machine), side of the slot,

        some machines have leveling screws in the bottom of the slot to set the height and some do not, slightly snug the wedge (so the knife is movable but will not fall out), and rotate it to the highest point in it arc, and put a straight edge on the back table and then careful set the knife so it is level with the table and at the same height, (if all is correctly machined, and the rear table is movable some times one can just set the knife on the bottom of the slot in the head, and tighten it, and then adjust the table to the knife, but careful align the height and sided to side to match the rear table, and do it to the other knives, and then double check that there TIGHT, and your ready,
        (rotate by hand (pulley) to make sure all clears, and nothing is hitting),

        (with the guard in place) turn on the machine,

        if all OK take a board and make a test cut, if the small scallops on the board, (if you run board fast they will space further apart and easier to see) if there even spaced your most like good to go, if there is one that has more cut than the other you have a high knife. and should be readjusted.

        Some of the locking screw in the wedges/Gib's, have a small locking nut on them some do not, but it is not rocket science, but look up most any manual on a similar machine and the procedure will be very close to the same,
        main differences will be in the way the Gib tightens or looses and if there is leveling screws in the bottom of the slot in the head.
        (I find the gibs/wedges that have a screw that pushes them up is more difficult to work with than those who work from the side as as the gib is pushed up some times it will push the knife up with it,

        use a piece of hard wood and tap the knife if it need to move, you fingers are not tough enough and then you leak all that red stuff.



        some thing you find helpful,
        http://www.woodworkinghistory.com/jo...r_syllabus.htm

        http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolG...e.aspx?id=5294

        http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/l...nterknives.pdf

        http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/JointerKnives.pdf

        one more thing if you nick the knives you may be able to get buy with out replacement or re-sharping, by sliding one of the knifes a little to the right or left, and staggering the nick between the blades, (works on planers as well),
        (staggering blades may effect a rabbit cut if you eve plan on using the jointer in that manner),

        yes in the video they trying to sell you the jig but it does show what to do,
        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gu0OADJAikw
        some tips in this video and how to use,
        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqVkI...eature=related
        Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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