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Table Saw Blade Runout

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  • Table Saw Blade Runout

    Well... I went ahead and bought the 3650 Rigid Table Saw. So far it appears to be a great product but I have run into a question/issue I purchased a new Freud blade and during the assembly today I installed it. I noticed that while spinning the blade that it had a slight wobble... that did not seem right Using a dial indicator and magnetic base I measure the runout at just inside the blade teeth at around .010 inch. Bent blade or bent shaft?? I took the blade off and measured the runout at the backing plate on the shaft and had a runout of .001 inch. Now what?? Is that with-in spec?? What is norm for runout? Should I take it back to HD to try another one? What a pain in the rear
    \"It is better to be careful 100 times than killed once\"<br />Mark Twain

  • #2
    The measurement at the blade seems about twice what the flange measurement would suggest. You might (likely) have an accumulated error. Try repositioning the blade about 60 degrees and mearure again. Do this until you've gone all the way around. Note the least and greatest error. The difference is probibly due to the blade.
    I bought an 80 tooth Freud thin kerf red teflon coated cross cut $1 per tooth "best blade ever made by man" blade. So badly out of flat it was still leaving a 1/8" kerf!!!!!

    Also, be sure to load the arbor axially (sp) to eliminate axil runout.
    If it seems too good to be true; <i>raise your standards.</i>


    • #3
      Thanks for the info. I was thinking over the geometry issue and was wondering if I had a compounded problem with a bent blade and arbor. Other postings that I have found indicate up to .003" for allowable run out for the arbor so one would think .001 would be "acceptable". I will try multiple positions on the blade (same one as you mentioned, red, 80 teeth, thin kerf,etc). I was also thinking of putting the Rigid blade back on to measure the run out with that one. What do you mean by axially loading the arbor Also, the wrenches supplied with the saw are about useless, busted knuckles just waiting to happen.
      \"It is better to be careful 100 times than killed once\"<br />Mark Twain


      • #4
        .001 certainly seems good for a contractors saw. I would try the ridgid blade on there a s it is somewhat thicker, so likely to be more dimensionally stable. It at least will help with the arbor or blade quandry. Keep us posted, enquiring minds want to know!
        \"Is it Friday yet?\"


        • #5
          Did not try the Ridgid blade... it is also a thin kerf blade so it may not help too much. I marked the Freud blade every 90 degrees, put a mark on the arbor, and then checked the run out every 90 degrees. I had readings that ranged from .005 to .010 of an inch. On the position that I measured .005 I moved the blade in relation to the arbor approx 20 degrees, plus and minus, and was able to achieve a min runout of approx .003 inch. This is not nearly as noticeable (by eyeball) as the initial setting found at .010 runout. These measurements were taken just inside of the teeth on the blade to provide a continual path for my dial indicator.

          Now that I have minimized my runout (having both an arbor and blade out of whack) is .003 acceptable??? I am still setting the saw up so wood has not been entered into the equation yet.

          Thanks for the feedback... FYI my previous saw was a benchtop craftsman that was nowhere near the machine as this 3650 so I know I am worlds better but just want to sanity check to see if I am where I need to be.
          \"It is better to be careful 100 times than killed once\"<br />Mark Twain


          • #6
            I think you'll find that 3 thou is within spec for the total runout, arbor & blade. The standard 40T blade that came with the 3612 was a standard kerf blade, can you confirm that the 3650 now has a thin kerf 40T as standard?

            Just another question since I'm inquisitive, on the nameplate, where does it say it's made?


            [ 09-22-2003, 11:25 PM: Message edited by: Cutbuff ]


            • #7
              Blade is indeed a 40T thin kerf blade made in Taiwan. The saw nameplate indicates Taiwan. The motor is a generic unit with no manufacturer name... let alone UL or CSA rating (I assume the saw was UL listed as an assembled unit. The motor was also made in Taiwan. Were the 3612s made in the US?? Why the change if so?
              \"It is better to be careful 100 times than killed once\"<br />Mark Twain


              • #8
                The 3612 and 2424 were US built by Emerson. They discontinued US table saw manufacture with the 3612. There has been a lot of speculation about the quality of the 3650 matching up with 3612. I feel that .003 qualifies as good quality. The Tp1300 planer was made in Taiwan and had good quality also. The loss of more US manufacturing jobs has been tough to swallow after decades of Emerson making saws for Sears and then HD.
                Sears sued Emerson for duplicating their Craftsman design with 2424 and 3612 and for reusing tooling that was supposedly destroyed as per agreement. I don't think it went to trial as the saws and tooling are now basically gone.
                Now you know the basics of the story as I understood them!
                \"Is it Friday yet?\"


                • #9
                  I found that the print on the Freud is raised and If you put the blade on properly, the print faces the arbor. Not much you can do about that. Just for gigles, install the blade backwards, and take your measurement. Obviously you can't run the saw this way, but you might feel better the blade is not bent. just scrub off the lettering around the flange area to make the blade sit flat.


                  • #10
                    Have you had a chance to do any cutting with the saw yet? I am curious to hear how much dust you put on the table. I have 0.004" total runout with my freud blades and 0.006" with my other blades. I have the balde parallel as I can get it after 6 hours of messing with it, about 0.001" or less.

                    I am putting dust on the table more than I thing I should be doing.