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  • R4511 table shims

    Assembling my new R4511 (yes, $300 at HD), since I'm working alone I took the table off before trying anything else. As I took it off, a bunch of round slotted shims (the kind designed to slip around a loosened bolt) fell off and I found a couple more sitting on the left front bolt hole (6 total).

    When I put the table back on after finishing the base, I was expecting that corner to be low, explaining the shims. If it is low, I can't detect it - there's no wobble that I can feel and putting even a couple of the shims around that bolt just causes a wobble (right front to left back).

    Did anyone else have this happen? I can see a crack of light between the table and the top of the cabinet on both sides - is it possible that's where they were to support the table between bolts?
    Last edited by suobs; 01-18-2010, 10:44 PM.

  • #2
    Re: R4511 table shims

    My saw had all the shims on the front two corners. I took my table off too to remove it from the crate. It had three shims on each front corner.
    Rocky
    AndersonsWoodworks.com

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    • #3
      Re: R4511 table shims

      Did you put them back? Did you notice if it wobbled without them?

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      • #4
        Re: R4511 table shims

        I figured they were there for a reason so I put them back when I put the table back on the base. Since they were the same thickness on the front two corners it should have been stable without them. Don't really know why they were there. I thought it had something to do with the granite top. I didn't want to take a chance on cracking it.
        Rocky
        AndersonsWoodworks.com

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        • #5
          Re: R4511 table shims

          If you tighten the granite top without the shims in place, you could crack the granite. Feel for any wobble in the top and shim it before tightening it down.

          Red
          Red

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          • #6
            Re: R4511 table shims

            The shims are there to align the table top 90 degress to the axis of the blade arbors "tilt".

            If the table top is not square to the axis, even with the miter slot perfectly parallel to your blade at 0 degrees, when you crank the arbor to 45 degrees, your miter slot will no longer be parallel to the blade.

            You should first set your miter slot parallel with your blade. Then crank the blade to 45 and check it again. You then add or remove shims under the table to bring it in line.
            Last edited by tomapple; 01-20-2010, 04:15 PM.

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            • #7
              Re: R4511 table shims

              Aha! Light dawns. Many thanks!

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              • #8
                Re: R4511 table shims

                Originally posted by tomapple View Post
                You should first set your miter slot parallel with your blade. Then crank the blade to 45 and check it again. You then add or remove shims under the table to bring it in line.
                Will I be able to do this after the side tables are installed? Or does it need to be done beforehand?

                Steve

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                • #9
                  Re: R4511 table shims

                  You can do it with the sides installed. Although it is lighter and a little easier to access the sides of the cabinet before the extensions are attached.

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                  • #10
                    Re: R4511 table shims

                    Actually, I had thought light dawned, but maybe not. Now I'm having trouble with the idea. Why would shimming the table up or down change the orientation of the miter slot to the blade?
                    Last edited by suobs; 02-10-2010, 09:00 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Re: R4511 table shims

                      Originally posted by suobs View Post
                      Actually, I had thought light dawned, but maybe not. Now I'm having trouble with the idea. Why would shimming the table up or down change the orientation to the miter slot to the blade?
                      In order to adjust the shims, you have to loosen off the bolts holding the table top in place. Once they are loose, or removed even, to add/remove shims, it is easy to knock the alignment from slot to blade out.
                      Brian

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                      • #12
                        Re: R4511 table shims

                        suobs,

                        Yours is a question many have asked and has already been answered. Go to this thread: http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25836

                        It's the one titled "R4511 Table top alignment instructions." there is a PDF file attached to the first message in that thread that explains everything very clearly. It even included pictures and a geometry refresher.

                        Chris

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                        • #13
                          Re: R4511 table shims

                          An attachment from another member red this and you will understand the concept.
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14
                            Re: R4511 table shims

                            With your blade at 90, picture a plane running through the centerline of your saw arbor from front to back. This imaginary plane when viewed from the end of the arbor is 90 degrees to the travel of the arbor.

                            The table top must be parallel to this imaginary plane. If it is not, as you change the blade angle, you will change the blades parallelism to the miter slot.

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