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  • R4511 blade wondering?

    I'm curious if anyone else has a problem with their R4511 wandering while crosscutting dense wood. I have aligned and adjusted everything so it is as square as my Starrett square. When I crosscut something hard the blade seems to pull toward the work for the first half inch or so leaving a damaged corner.

    The shaft of the miter gage is adjusted to the slot so it isn't cocking during the cut. I have tried clamping the work to the miter gage with the same result. I have also tried putting some sticky back sand paper on the miter gage thinking that I was letting the work slip. Same result. I've never had this problem on my old INCA or any of the various low and high end table saws I've used.

    My current assumption is that the blade is shifting when it first sees a load and then again as the work passes the back end of the blade. What else have I missed?

    Thanks,
    -Rob

  • #2
    Re: R4511 blade wondering?

    Rob, are you using the blade that came with the saw? In my humble opinion, that blade sucks... to put it nicely.

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    • #3
      Re: R4511 blade wondering?

      Try a different blade.

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      • #4
        Re: R4511 blade wondering?

        I am using both the original blade (agreed not great but ok for rough cuts in particle board) and a Freud 50T Industrial combo blade LU83R010. both blades do the same thing which is why I think it might be the saw. I've had very bad cuts in Black Akatia and Jarra. It is not so pronounced but still present cutting Fir or Pine.
        -Rob

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        • #5
          Re: R4511 blade wondering?

          I would recheck the alignment of your miter slot's to the blade. If it's parallel to the blade and your miter gauge is not rocking in the slot then there should be no reason for the cut to not come out straight, even with a marginal blade. Checking alignment with a square is not the most accurate way to do it, but make sure you mark the blade and check the same tooth both at the infeed when it first touches and the outfeed where it last touches.

          millman

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          • #6
            Re: R4511 blade wondering?

            do you have the same symptoms when you rip with your fence?

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            • #7
              Re: R4511 blade wondering?

              You don't have to spend a lot of money in tooling to make sure your blade is parallel to the miter slot. I chose to buy a Master Plate and already had a dial indicator. The Master Plate makes the task much, much easier. I found using a blade clumsy and lacking in overall reliability.

              You should be shooting for tolerances in .002" - .003" range. It is unlikely any square will get you there.

              After setting the blade parallelism, using the same miter slot set your fence.

              You might want to read the thread about aligning the table top. Parallelism when the blade is at 90 degree's is one thing. Parallelism when the blade is at 45 degrees is another matter and must be addressed if you expect to be able to make accurate cuts at anything other than 90 degrees.

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              • #8
                Re: R4511 blade wondering?

                My miter gage is solid in the slot and I have the same issue with an Incra miter gage which is also adjusted to the slot. The slots are parallel to the blade within a couple of thousandths over the width of the blade. The miter gage is tightened. I just dug up a piece of Fir that I had ripped. Yes it has the same snipe on the first corner to contact the blade. The fence is adjusted so that it is about .003-5 out at the rear of the blade. It should be making good cuts.
                -Rob

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                • #9
                  Re: R4511 blade wondering?

                  Is this happening when you try to shave a little off an end, or also when you cut into the middle of a piece. Also, I know Jarra is really hard stuff...you might need a stiffener or a good full kerf blade for Jarra, ironwood, mesquite, and that sort of material.

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                  • #10
                    Re: R4511 blade wondering?

                    It happens with most any cut: rip, cross, trim. It is definitely worse when I try to shave a 64th. It digs in and takes almost an 8th. It seems to even out when the blade starts cutting the top surface. It just takes the first corner. On a thick piece it can be a lot of wood.

                    I went to the store where I bought it today. They told me that they would swap it for a new one or maybe refund my money. Choices? I have to figure out how to move it.

                    Thanks for all your questions and suggestions. I'll let you know what happens.

                    -Rob

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                    • #11
                      Re: R4511 blade wondering?

                      It appears as though I have a similar issue, however, mine happens when using a dado blade. Everything is square and parallel however when making a dado or rabbet the piece wants to wander to the left side of the blade. I need to clamp the piece being worked on to prevent this from happening. I thought perhaps I was going insane.

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                      • #12
                        Re: R4511 blade wondering?

                        What is the runout on the arbor?

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                        • #13
                          Re: R4511 blade wondering?

                          I have the 3650, not the 4511, so this may not apply, but if mine was doing it, I would be looking under the table for loose trunnion bolts, etc. With yours, it may be the table top is shifting. The stock blade I got with mine would flex badly, so I now use mainly full kerf, but when it did flex, it was away from the work, not into it.

                          Go
                          Practicing at practical wood working

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                          • #14
                            Re: R4511 blade wondering?

                            In my case the blade moves to the left as the work enters.
                            -Rob

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