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Thin or full kerf blade?

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  • #31
    Re: Thin or full kerf blade?

    Originally posted by postjob62 View Post
    Just wanted to say thanks to all who helped me here.

    I just ordered a Freud Avanti TK306 on clearance from Rockler for $19.99, with free shipping with the code I Googled up using hewood's idea. I never would have thought of that so thanks again hewood.

    I know this isn't a high end blade but it's gotta be better than stock and a good one to get me started.

    The Freud rep said the Avanti line has been discontinued because they just had too many lines, and they're getting down to just 2 lines, the Diablo and the Commercial series. He said that the Diablo DT40X and the LU86R010 would approximate this TK306 but in their current lines.

    He said by the way that they had never made blades in China, only Italy. I thought I read something to the contrary here, maybe not.

    Thanks again!
    Thanks for the update...you got a great bang for the buck on a good blade.

    What you probably read was a warning about "Avanti" and "Avanti Pro" blades being made in China, and it's worth repeating and shouting from the roof tops as far as I'm concerned. Shortly after Freud discontinued the Freud TK/Avanti line, HD started selling blades under the "Avanti" and "Avanti Pro" trademarks...these blades are not made by Freud, don't say "Freud" on them, aren't associated with Freud (that I know of), are made in China, and are just plain lousy blades under the guise of the formerly well respected "Freud Avanti" line. Buyer beware...if it doesn't clearly say "Freud", it's not. Shame on HD for trying to dupe their loyal customers. This line of blades happens to be unsuitable for finewoodworking, but regardless, even if they were good, IMO this imitation deserves to be boycotted based on the deception.

    Chinese "Avanti" knockoff:

    Freud Avanti TK406 (made in Italy):
    Last edited by hewood; 02-25-2010, 12:45 PM.

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    • #32
      Re: Thin or full kerf blade?

      Originally posted by hewood View Post
      It should....I'd guess the stock blade is a TK. I seem to recall that the riving knife is in the 0.087" to 0.092 range, which should be fine....someone else will have to confirm.
      Can anyone confirm this (about splitter/riving knife)? I've been wondering. I'm looking at getting a new blade in the near future and this thread has been quite helpful. I think the stock blade for the R4511 is a TK too, but I haven't found anything definitive.

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      • #33
        Re: Thin or full kerf blade?

        Yes, the stock blade included with the R4511 is a thin kerf blade.

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        • #34
          Re: Thin or full kerf blade?

          As an extension of this with the same question, but a different tool - I've never upgraded my stock 10" compound miter saw blade. What is the right choice for this? Thin kerf or no? Also it seems to me that I'd be happy with a bargain like the Freud Avanti $20 combo blade for the table saw if there were something of that quality, but more directed to the miter saw (I assume in a miter saw you go for a crosscut blade with more teeth since it doesn't do ripping, but perhaps I'm wrong). I don't need the best blade ever for this, but slightly smoother cuts wouldn't hurt.

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          • #35
            Re: Thin or full kerf blade?

            Thin kerf is less beneficial because crosscutting tends to be easier on the motor, so I'd go with the best deal on a good blade appropriate for miter saw regardless of kerf. Generally 60T to 80T will work well for crosscutting...fewer teeth doesn't cut quite as cleanly but cuts more efficiently with less chance of burning...either can be the right choice, and both will likely cut cleanly enough. A positive hook is fine for a CMS, but I's stay around +10° or lower on the hook angle. If your saw is a slider then it's important to get a blade with a low to negative hook...roughly -7° to +7 °.

            The Freud Avanti TK806 from Rockler is an 80T thin kerf with ~ 0° hook and a fairly high alternate top bevel for clean slicing. On sale for $30.

            The Infinity 010-060, 010-080, or 010-280 are all very well suited for use with either a CMS or a SCMS. World class blades, reasonably priced.

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            • #36
              Re: Thin or full kerf blade?

              Cool, thanks Hewood those sound like just what I was hoping for. Would these two blades do better than a very good (say Forrest, RC, Infinity) combo blade as crosscut blades on a tablesaw if I wanted to use them that way upon occasion, too? If so, this would be a great way to get an extra tablesaw blade in some sense for free since it would be serving two purposes.

              Also on a totally different topic, I'm floored that not only is the Avanti name now used by HD for a product totally unrelated to the old Freud Avanti, but even the way it is printed is stolen directly from the old blades. I would have fallen for it if you hand't posted the difference above so thanks for pointing that out.

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              • #37
                Re: Thin or full kerf blade?

                Originally posted by secondo View Post
                Cool, thanks Hewood those sound like just what I was hoping for. Would these two blades do better than a very good (say Forrest, RC, Infinity) combo blade as crosscut blades on a tablesaw if I wanted to use them that way upon occasion, too? If so, this would be a great way to get an extra tablesaw blade in some sense for free since it would be serving two purposes.

                Also on a totally different topic, I'm floored that not only is the Avanti name now used by HD for a product totally unrelated to the old Freud Avanti, but even the way it is printed is stolen directly from the old blades. I would have fallen for it if you hand't posted the difference above so thanks for pointing that out.
                Either the Infinity 010-060 or the Freud LU88 will give cleaner crosscuts than any combo blade I know of. The Hi-ATB grind on the 010-060 will have even less tearout than the LU88, but the LU88 is slightly more efficient at ripping. Either one of these would be best if complimented by a ripping blade of some sort for thick materials, but if you don't rip thick materials, either will do fine by itself.

                As I mentioned in a previous post, the Infinity 010-060 mated with a Forrest 30T WWII is an ideal combination of blades for this saw IMHO....clean glue line rips up to 3", and acceptable crosscuts with the 30T... superior ply and fine crosscuts, and very clean rips to ~ 5/4" from the 60T. Tons of excellent performance across the board with excellent versatility...all for roughly $150-$160.

                For $100-$110, you can buy a 24T ripper and a the 60T LU88...it'll give you more efficient ripping for the thickest materials, but with less versatility, and more tearout in the fine cuts.

                The scheme going on at HD with the Avanti line is unethical...bordering criminal IMHO. I think their loyal trusting customers deserved better than to have to be on their toes in order to not be deceived. News of this deception should be broadcast and exposed in a big way....wonder if any of the mags have the spine to tell it like it is.
                Last edited by hewood; 03-02-2010, 10:06 PM.

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                • #38
                  Re: Thin or full kerf blade?

                  Originally posted by hewood View Post
                  Thin kerf is less beneficial because crosscutting tends to be easier on the motor, so I'd go with the best deal on a good blade appropriate for miter saw regardless of kerf. Generally 60T to 80T will work well for crosscutting...fewer teeth doesn't cut quite as cleanly but cuts more efficiently with less chance of burning...either can be the right choice, and both will likely cut cleanly enough. A positive hook is fine for a CMS, but I's stay around +10° or lower on the hook angle. If your saw is a slider then it's important to get a blade with a low to negative hook...roughly -7° to +7 °.

                  The Freud Avanti TK806 from Rockler is an 80T thin kerf with ~ 0° hook and a fairly high alternate top bevel for clean slicing. On sale for $30.

                  The Infinity 010-060, 010-080, or 010-280 are all very well suited for use with either a CMS or a SCMS. World class blades, reasonably priced.
                  I've been wanting to upgrade the blade on my SCMS and had been thinking of a Forrest blade, but for $30, I couldn't pass up on the Freud Avanti blade from Rockler. Looking forward to trying it out. Thanks hewood.

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