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Edge Planing with a router

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  • Edge Planing with a router

    Hi,

    I was looking in a woodworking book, and it said that you can essentially use a router with a router table, using a flush panel bit, to joint plane and edge of wood. I'm assuming that you attach a straight edge cutting guide along the top of the lenght of board, correct? clamp it down on both ends, match the height of the rolling cap thing at the tip of the router bit, and just route the edge until the cap rolls alongside the edge cutting guide clamped onto the board? If this is the case, what happens when you get to the ends of the board with the clamp? The clamps (vice clamps) will be blocked by the sides of the router table. Any suggestions on how to edge-plane using a router?

  • #2
    Hello Axio, I have never heard of using a router atble to do do this with an edge guide. Here is how I do it. I use the factory edge of a sheet of 3/4" MDF I cut a strip of the mdf about 9" wide. With the board laying on a bench or saw horses I lay the mdf on top with the straight edge just inside the edge of the board. If the board has a bow to ( then make sure the inside edge of the bow is just over the MDF edge. I clamp the 2 pieces together away from the straight edge side. Flip them over and use a flush trim bit in my hand held router. Adjust the blade length so that the bearing on the end will ride on the mdf below the board. Now just start routing away the board until the bearing is riding against the mdf. There you have a straight, square edge on the board. Remove the clamps and then run the board through the table saw with the freshly trimmed edge against the fense and you will have a straight board, ready for use.. Post questions if you have any and I will get back to you this evening.
    info for all: http://www.hoistman.com http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/index....wwtoolinfoforu --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."

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    • #3
      Thanks papadan. That makes sense. I posted this on the Ryobi forum as well, and they said that it's possible to use just a straight bit with a router table, making sure to properly adjust the outfeed fence so that it compensates for the slightly smaller amount of edge after the bit cuts the wood, and that should result in a pretty flat board. The way you presented it sounds good as well. I'll have to try out both next time.

      [ 01-25-2005, 09:20 AM: Message edited by: axio ]

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      • #4
        Here is a link that has some photos demonstrating the method Papadan mentioned.

        http://www.woodshopdemos.com/rtrplnr.htm

        Woodslayer

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        • #5
          Thanks for the link. Actually, Papadan's method is different. The link illustrates the method shown by the people on the Ryobi board. Both methods seem pretty good though.

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          • #6
            The table method looks like a lot of work to setup properly. I assure you it takes longer to read my discription than it does to joint the board. I have 2, 4 and 8' mdf edges for what ever length I need. It takes about 10 seconds to clamp the edge to the board and start routing. Give both ways a try and let us know which is better/quicker.
            info for all: http://www.hoistman.com http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/index....wwtoolinfoforu --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."

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