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  • Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

    I thought I'd share a couple of additions to the typical Ridgid bandsaw tuneup. First, I think the bandsaw is adequate, but probably the lowest qualitiy of all of my ridgid tools (Sander, Drill Press, Table Saw), but even w/ all of the tuneups that it needed, I still came in under the nearest competitor, before you factor in the warranty.

    First, I needed a fence, but didn't want to spend $100 on the Kreg, which is a great fence, but really more than I needed. So I got some plans here: http://images.meredith.com/wood/imag...saw_fence2.pdf.

    I modified them slightly to accomodate what I already had in the garage (Al angle instead of plate, T nuts instead of threaded inserts). I increased the heighth of the face as well, better for resawing. I put 7/8" thick cherry on the sides of the table for clamping surfaces. It works suprisingly well, but featherboards are advisable for taller pieces, as the top of the fence can deflect backwards w/ too much pressure (I may put a 3rd T-nut at the bottom of the fence, at the pivot point to help this, but not yet.)

    Also, I got really tired of releasing the blade tension, and didn't want to spend a bunch of money on one of the fancy detensioners, and I came across this on another forum: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...tension&page=7

    I ordered the minimum parts from Grizzly, and used whatever bolts/nuts/washers I had lying around to finish it out, and spent only about $50. Works great, but took a little adjuting to get it just right (to make it release tension fully. It kept wanting to stick at about 1/2 tension when I released it.) The drilling/tapping was a lot easier than I thought it would be as well. I've attached some pics, so enjoy!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

    Great job!

    Is the taper in the fence body so that it can be adjusted to be parallel to the blade?

    I can see a minor alteration that would help me too - the clamp guides (a great idea!) foul the miter slot ends. Grooving the clamp guides so the miter gauge can still be used seems like a good idea.

    Now, any ideas how to separate the motor from the body of the saw with enough mechanical force to tension the drive belt?

    I've made a ridgid stand for mine, and will be putting the saw on it at the weekend, but looking at it last night, the belt wobbles all over the place, and I can't physically pull the motor out far enough to tension it. I thought about a spreader clamp, but the gap is too small to fit one in.

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    • #3
      Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

      Yeah, I keep meaning to grove the sides for the miter slot, but just haven't gotten around to it yet. The fence is adjustable for angle, so that you can compensate for blade drift (not really a problem thus far on my saw, but it can happen).

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

        Another question - why does the bandsaw not have a T-slot miter profile? The miter gauge from my table saw fits because it is long enough for the T-profile end to not engage in the slot at all, but it seems like a much better idea to have the T-profile. Just seems a bit odd to me.

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        • #5
          Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

          I think the T vs square groove is an old argument. The T slot allows a tab at the far end of the miter gauge that will keep the miter gauge from falling out of the slot if pulled back to far. Also makes the slot more prone to breaking as the trade off. At least that's my understanding of it.

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          • #6
            Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

            "I've made a ridgid stand for mine, and will be putting the saw on it at the weekend, but looking at it last night, the belt wobbles all over the place, and I can't physically pull the motor out far enough to tension it. I thought about a spreader clamp, but the gap is too small to fit one in.".

            It would be easy to buy a new belt next size shorter.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

              @mandmj - heh I looked at your pics first and thought hey !
              that tensioner looks alot like the one on my Grizzly ?
              I didnt think ridgid had one on theres like that.
              then I read your post - Ohhhh ! didnt think they would adapt over like that ?

              cool idea !

              I looked at ridgids bandsaws, I didnt like the lack of features.
              no fence - I wanted rollers not blocks.

              sorry ridgid !

              ps; I took a piece of plastic conduit, painted it red and stuck it over the Tensioner handle
              (so I can easily see it) and when I give that last look around before I lock up for the night I can see "yes I took the tension off" my blade.
              Last edited by ThomasL1959; 03-07-2010, 10:33 PM.

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              • #8
                Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

                Boy, many thanks, mandmj, for posting the archived tensioning parts list from Grizz. They have apparently gone to a no-sale-to-non-Grizz-saw. I told them what I wanted to do and they said that they didn't have anything that would fit my saw. I asked if they had any parts for a saw and gave my critical dimensions. By the third e-mail it was obvious that they were becoming impatient with me. BTW, which other manufacturer does the Ridgid resemble - Jet, HF, Delta??

                TIA,
                Chiz
                Later,
                Chiz
                https://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/frown.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...es/redface.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...s/rolleyes.pnghttps://www.ridgidforum.com/core/ima...lies/smile.png

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                • #9
                  Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

                  Originally posted by ironhat View Post
                  ...They have apparently gone to a no-sale-to-non-Grizz-saw....

                  TIA,
                  Chiz

                  Don't call to order without the part #'s... Ordering online is the easiest. Here (see below) is the thread with the parts lists. Read the entire thread to make sure you order all the parts needed. It installs quick and easy, it took longer to find the right tap in my tool cabinet than to do the install/setup of the tensioner. Note: It is not necessary to disassemble the frame and use the drill press to drill and tap the holes. It will take much longer if you do.

                  http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...ferrerid=30096
                  Last edited by acs_guitars; 03-10-2010, 10:04 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

                    I didn't realize when I posted this that someone else had already done it, so sorry for stealing your idea! I just ordered the parts on Grizzly's website and no questions asked. I would second the comment that removing the upper arm of the bandsaw isn't necessary. I drilled pilot holes w/ a 1/8" bit then the full size hole (1/4" I think). I didn't have a flat nose tap, so I had to take the holes into the slot where the tension assembly rides, but that actually produced zero issues, so I 'm thankful for that. The drilling/tapping part was actually a ton easier than expected, so don't let any of this put you off, it only took me a couple of hours to do the whole thing. It was harder adjusting everything to make it just so on release than the actual installing of it.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

                      You didn't steal any one's idea, its all here for all of us, another thread showing this mod helps give everyone thinking about trying it a little confidence. I posted that link to make sure anyone wanting to try the idea can make sure they order all the parts needed, nothing more frustrating than having to stop midway and order something you missed or that was missing from the list some one else posted.

                      Side note... You are from Glenpool, OK... Small world I lived in Tulsa before moving to Jax, Fl and have friends in Glenpool.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

                        Yeah, my family and I moved back here last summer after being gone from OK for 9 years or so. Nice to be back. Although I think Florida has better winters...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

                          Well, I to had the "vibration" problem with my BS14002.

                          After looking at everything, I noticed the bottom wheel was very, very slightly out of balance and the cheap v-belt that came with it appeared to be permanently twisted out of shape.

                          I ended up installing the link belt and leaving the bottom wheel as is (considering how little it was out of balance. Of course, while I did this, I added the Carter urethane tires, Carter cool blocks and a Viking blade (I also ended up getting a carbide tipped 3/4" for resawing.

                          I am sure the link belt was the only thing required but the saw runs as smooth as butter now. Too bad Ridgid can't bite the bullet and just sell the BS with a better quality belt and maybe do better quality control with the manufacturing/balancing of the wheels.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Bandsaw (BS14002) Additions

                            Originally posted by Roadster280 View Post
                            Now, any ideas how to separate the motor from the body of the saw with enough mechanical force to tension the drive belt?
                            I got pretty frustrated with this part too. I am not sure why the motor mounts were designed quite the way they were. Trying to keep proper tension on the v-belt and tighten 4 screws on wobbly rubber mounts is tough at best. The toughest part was trying to keep the motor square so that the shaft would be completely perpendicular to the v-belt while tightening.

                            I decided to take the v-belt right off and square the motor with the frame, evenly tighten all 4 bolts on the rubber grommets and then hook up the v-belt by attaching it to the small pulley and then stretching it to the large pulley and rotating it until the belt slipped in. I got lucky and got the proper setup on the first try. It may take a couple of attempts to ensure proper tension but I found that this worked best for me. I can definitely attest to the fact that I have zero vibration on my bandsaw (of course, I installed a link belt because I like upgrading stuff).

                            Maybe everyone did it this way to begin with but in case someone didn't think of this, hopefully this idea will get rid of some vibration problems.

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