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smaller blades for ripping FYI

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  • #31
    Originally posted by woodslayer:
    Kelly, yours is a little more powerful than mine “Emerson 1.5 HP, 13/6 Amps, 120V-240V Induction/Capacitor Start & Run”. This thread has been very entertaining, thanks.

    Woodslayer
    I stand corrected...checked the manual and it's 13 & 6.5 amps...mine's a 220 now so it's 6.5 amps.
    Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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    • #32
      Dave,
      As a part time wrench turner, a supercharger is way to produce more power from a smaller displacement engine. We can chat later about the feasibility ($$) of supercharging a small engine versus putting in a larger engine with the same power output. Personally, I would choose the larger engine. There is no replacement for cubic inches!
      My point about the industry gravitating towards teflon coatings is simple. If it was truely as good as they claim every saw blade manufacturer would be producing them. For example, all quality saw blades have expansion slots. Expansion slots have been proven to work and every quality blade manufacturer uses them on their blades.
      Regarding the snippet about teflon, I thought it was worth mentioning. And apparently YOU thought it must of had some value because you expanded on my point. I could have gone into it's coefficient of friction, etc. but I choose to avoid it.

      As a side note, if your car has a roots style supercharger, it has been proven that teflon coated rotors produce lower aircharge temperatures and slightly higher boost pressures.
      Steve

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      • #33
        I'm canceling my subscription to "Popular Mechanics"... This thread is much more exciting to read and it's free...

        Waiting for the trend to the right subject so I can chime in...

        Great discussion guy's...
        Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\"http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>

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        • #34
          This snippet does not add to the conversation but, Teflon was discovered serendipituously by a researcher at Dupont trying to develop a new COOLANT. Not an adhesive.

          Best regards and sorry for the noise [img]smile.gif[/img]

          Henry

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          • #35
            Not sure If I really want to get in on this one, but what the heck.

            Steve L.
            But, how much contact occurs between the teflon coated surfaces and the wood? Most carbide tipped saws cut a kerf that is wider than the metal blade. If that is so then there should be minimum contact with the side of the blade.

            It depends on how much lateral force you are exerting on the wood. I would guess that if you are crosscutting a rail, there will be almost no contact. If however you are ripping, I would bet that there is a great deal of lateral force, which is why you should have a splitter at the back of the blade.

            Dave Arbuckle:
            Why aren't all cars supercharged?

            Because a good number of them would blow a rod.
            It so happens that some engines handle heat better than others, and it so happens that the Honda Civic and the Subaru WRX Wagon are a couple cars with an engine block that can dissapate heat very very well. It is for this reason that these cars have been embraced by rich kids who love to make them look like low-riders and street race them. A very light car can produce very high hp without blowing up. It's kinda cool, really. Like a motorcycle on 4 wheels.

            But I still agree with Steve L.
            There is no replacement for displacement.

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            • #36
              Alright, what the heck...

              I don't know how much you are cutting that you want to spare your blades that much wear, but for me, I rough cut large plywood panels with a hand circular saw (Makita cordless, lightweight and sweet) and then go to the table saw where I just bought a Forrest all purpose blade. First times I cut with it I think I had a religious experience. If you have not tried one and have heard all the rhetoric, its true. I am going to send them my old blade and dado set for sharpening and see what I get back. Based on this experience, I don't think you'll see me downgrading to $10 blades any time soon.

              I think those cheepies are probably great for cutting framing lumber but they wont see my TS2424.

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              • #37
                so is the smaller blade safe to use?
                Andy B.

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                • #38
                  I think those cheepies are probably great for cutting framing lumber but they wont see my TS2424.

                  I hear ya there, I use a Freud in mine (but am wanting to upgrade to a Forrest soon) and the small ones don't even see time anymore in my jobsite saw. Since buying the 2400, I've been using the Freud Framing blade in it with great results. I still want to upgrade from that for trimwork on my bookcase work to eliminate more saw marks. I only used the little thin kerfs in my Delta portable (which I no longer own).
                  Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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                  • #39
                    Andy, I don't see any safety hazard, with one exception. The blade should be speed rated, most 10" blades are rated to 6000-9000 rpm, even though the saw is doing less than 4000. I've never paid any attention to the rating on the small blades.

                    Dave

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