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BS1400 w/ Riser -- User ??

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  • BS1400 w/ Riser -- User ??

    Some of you may have been following my anti-vibration saga. OK, I'm stupid. Last night I was looking closely at my riser block. The pins lined up but the block itself doesn't fit right -- it is out of column with the original riser by maybe 1/4" -- towards the rear of the saw. Is this right? Does yours fit that way or is it in column? Wondering if this is where my vibration is coming from...

    -- Sam

  • #2
    Their is an imprint in the casting that says up with an arrow on it. Make sure that is facing the back of the saw. Otherwise it will stick out further towards the table and reduce the throat.


    • #3
      OK, we gotta agree on what "rear" of the saw means [img]smile.gif[/img]

      I have the block installed so the arrow is pointing up and on the outfeed side of the saw.

      The "out of column" condition I'm referring to is the alignment laterally -- between the right (table) side of the riser and the left (motor) side of the riser.

      The pins/holes in my riser block lined up fine -- but it is out of column with the riser by about 1/4" --> towards the motor side of the saw.

      I'll take some digital images tonight and post somewhere... but the more I think about it, the more it seems "not right." Shouldn't the riser block line up perfectly in column???

      Could this be a source for some of my vibration problems?

      -- Sam


      • #4
        Yes the riser should be in a perfect column and it sounds like you installed it correctly.

        Where did you get the riser from? You might have picked up a riser that wasn't cast correctly (and hence the shortage of risers for awhile). You should call Ridgid ASAP and get a replacement if it is indeed out of line.


        • #5
          Rear -> Outfeed
          Front -> Infeed
          Left -> Motor/Switch side
          Right -> Blade side
          Top -> Tensioner side
          Bottom -> Base side
          North -> Canada
          South -> Mexico

          Just kidding. This is my poor sense of humor.

          Here are some photos. Initially, I attached the riser block with the UP impression facing the front. This made a big difference in the alignment of the interfaces. When facing the back it seems to line up very well. The pins will connect either way. One way is correct, one isn't.

 riser rear.jpg

 riser front.jpg



          • #6
            Let's try those photos again. Spaces don't work in the link.





            • #7
              Sam....I don't use the riser block but here are somethings I did to eliminate vibration.
              1. Changed to a link belt and aligned motor & machine pullys.
              2. Planed a block of wood on my thickness planer & then cut it in half. I used double stick tape to afix one to each end of a level. I used this to align the 14" wheels. I did this so the level didn't hit the housing. If they are not aligned the vibration can be serious and nothing else will eliminate it.
              3. I have a sand bag draped over the metal support between the 2 rear legs. This is a carry over from my lathe, seems to help.
              Good Luck.


              • #8

                I got mine from (ordertree)... was the problem with the "bad" batch that they were cast off-center? Maybe I got one of the bad ones mixed in... it fits the pins'holes properly -- just sits kinda funny on the saw...


                I can see how you check that the wheels are in alignment... how do you adjust them?


                Thanks for the pics. Looks like the riser is evenly spaced on all four sides where it sits on top of the riser block. Mine sits to one side (towards the motor mount). Do yourself a major favor and go get the lead weights (tape) to balance the wheel -- it is much easier and I think more accurate than wire. Also, pick up 4 of the shock absorber bushings to replace the rubber mounts for the motor... I can't believe how much that helped -- the stock mounts just aren't strong enough to isolate the vibration... the shock bushings are twice as thick and much stiffer. I put an extra washer between the new bushing and the top of the stand so the rubber didn't get squashed into the slot.

                -- Sam


                • #9
                  I too hava a riser block problem. Ridgid support is sending a new riseblock. Mine is out of line to the left or cutting side of the saw. Consequently my blade tracks a little off on the lower wheele. The saw however runs virtually vibration free. To accomplish this I did the following.
                  I tuned the saw. Make sure the wheels and pullys are coplainer. The tracking problem on the lower wheele is not causing any vibration. I then I added the following
                  1. Link Belt
                  2. 3/4 piece of MDF ontop of the base top to stiffen it up
                  3. L braces near the bottom to stiffen the legs.
                  4. Instead of rubber gromets I cut a piece of rubber vibration mat/horse stall mat the size of the base of the motor and drilled holes in the appropriate places.

                  This saw will pass the nickle test from startup through shutdown. It will pass a pennie test through out the whole sequence.
                  I came...<br /><br />I saw...<br /><br />I changed the plans.


                  • #10

                    What did you tell the folks at Ridgid?

                    I just today installed my riser block and it seems like I've got the same tracking problem that you do. The blade on the lower wheel just won't stay in the center of the tire. To track the blade on the top wheel, I have to "crank" the top weel to about a 5 degree tilt. With no tracking, both weels are parallel and on the same plane.

                    Also, I've read your previous posts about using the matt as a vibration isolation and such, but can you go over the L brackets and MDF again? I don't understand where you put the brackets and the MDF seems like a short term only solution - it isn't that ridgid.



                    • #11
                      Ridgid called me the other day as I did not have a 1" sanding belt and platen in the box when I bought the saw. The display model had them so after purchasing the saw I called and asked about it. They sent the belt months ago, but the platen was on backorder. When they called they wanted to know if I still wanted the platen and I advised that I did. I happened to mention to the lady that since I put the riser block on the blade tracked about 1/8th of an inch off. I wondered if this was likely to cause a problem later on as the saw was cutting fine. I just didn't want to prematurely wear out the bearings. She said she needed to check with a supervisor to see if there was any report of that kind of problem and what to do to correct it. The next day there was a message on my machine asking me to call with my shipping address as they would send a new riser block. I explained that all the other parts in the kit were fine, that my only concern was the block itself. I will update when the new block gets here and is installed.

                      As for the MDF. When I went to put the origional riser block on I decided to add one additional modification to try and stiffen it up some more. I took the motor and saw assembly off. I measured the inside of the base and cut a piece of MDF to fit inside the base on the underside, beveling the edges to fit tightly. I drilled the motor mounting channels and the holes for the saw in the MDF and bought longer bolts for all. On the underside of the MDF I used large diameter washers to spread the preasure of wrenching everything down tight. The motor mounting and saw hold the MDF into place out of sight and it was cut to just fit so there is no movement in the MDF at all. It stiffens the base plate from below.

                      As for the angle iron. My legs have a single hole 4" up from the bottome. I bought angle iron and cut it to fit the run from front to back and side to side just like the leg braces above and bolted it them into place at the hole. I also provided a nice place to put a shelf made of MDF. Now my resaw block sits there when not in use as well as my Fastrach fence when it is off.

                      I don't know that either improvement made a great difference, but as I said I can stand a penny up on edge, start, run and turn off the saw and it will not fall. As for the rubber mat trick, I use that on all fixed mounted motors on all my tools and get rid of those usless rubber washers. I find that I have no motor slip that way as the horse mat is stiffer than the washers so I can tighten the bolt tighter and not get vibration.
                      I came...<br /><br />I saw...<br /><br />I changed the plans.


                      • #12
                        Well, I just tried the same route as G.W. and called Ridgid.

                        I got a different response.

                        They basically said that I should return it to the store (HD) and let them deal with it. I told them that I understood that there was a defective batch made and that the company had, in other cases, just mailed a new riser block out.

                        No luck, but I'll try again, I guess.


                        • #13
                          The only thing I can think of that might have made the difference was the fact that I ordered my block through Ridgid and not HD. Sorry your experience was not as easy.
                          I came...<br /><br />I saw...<br /><br />I changed the plans.