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resawing with r 4511

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  • resawing with r 4511

    I have been wanting to try some projects starting with rough lumber, specifically oak. My bandsaw is nothing more than a glorified hobby bandsaw. I have heard of resawing with a table saw by sawing half the width and then flipping the board over and doing the other half. My question is does the r 4511 have enough power to do this?

  • #2
    Re: resawing with r 4511

    I'll let you know once I get my Sharkguard. In order to resaw on the R4511 your have to remove the stock guard. The Sharkguard allows you to remove the guard while leaving the riving knife in place. I wouldn't want to try to resaw without a riving knife in place.


    • #3
      Re: resawing with r 4511

      Toecat - I've done resawing many times on my former GI contractor saw and Craftsman 22124 hybrid, so your saw should have ample power if your alignment is good, and the blade is're best off with a sharp thin kerf 24T ripping blade. I used a low profile splitter. It's also important that the board be flat and straight...not a good idea to resaw a board that's going to be rocking and wobbling. Use featherboards and pushsticks.


      • #4
        Re: resawing with r 4511

        I use the RIDGID Bandsaw to re-saw 6" White Oak with great results, after reading your post, out of curiosity, I tried it on my R4511. I cut 3" on each pass, The saw has enough power but is your blade up to the task? I used a freud 24T. Using the Bandsaw is a breeze but attempting the same cut on the Tablesaw is more of a hair raising experience.

        Make sure the board is flat and well supported. consider using a low profile riving knife.


        • #5
          Re: resawing with r 4511

          My TS3650 will do it so there is no reason yours won't. Use a good 24 or 30t rip blade (I recommend a full kerf blade to prevent the blade twisting in the wood following the grain, which is what happened to me with the stock thin kerf blade). Push the wood slow enough for the saw to keep up. I have resawn kiln-dried 6" wide white oak this way, as well as pine and black walnut. Hewood has posted good advise.

          A few things that will make it go easier:

          First, the wood must have one flat surface and both edges straight and squared to that surface. Rough cut doesn't hack it as it will cause side stress on the blade. The flat surface goes against the fence for both cuts (wood will have to be flipped end to end.) Unsquared edges will cant the board over, also messing up the parallelism of the two cuts.

          Second: Do not cut all the way through on the second cut. Leave about 1/16" - 1/32" remaining. This makes it easier to control the wood as you reach the end of the cut. I have gone full through (not much problem on short pieces) and also left the little tab, and have had much better results leaving that thin connection. After the second rip, separate with a sharp chisel or use a hand saw to follow the kerf. Be aware that if the tab is thick, it may tear out into the surface using a chisel. I prefer a saw for this reason. Run the surface through a planer and you are set to resaw again if making multiples out of one board. (Using the handsaw to finish, I have resawn 7 1/2" boards).

          Third: Especially if doing pine or some soft or moist wood, first make an insert with a short splitter installed in it. (ref Hewoods post). Wet or stressed wood will tend to close up on the blade after the cut. As you have to remove the factory splitter, this will keep the slot from binding and burning on the blade.

          For your first try, leave an extra 1/8" thickness for clean up. After you get confident on the process, you can cut that down to a 1/16".


          Last edited by Gofor; 04-07-2010, 07:55 PM.
          Practicing at practical wood working