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What blade are you running in your r4511?

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  • #16
    Re: What blade are you running in your r4511?

    Originally posted by Ing View Post
    Same here. I think they are an excellent blade for the money. I wish they made a 24 or 20T rip blade.
    The Ridgid Titanium series is made by Freud...the 50T R1050C is very similar to Freud's Diablo D1050 and Freud's Industrial LU83R010 (the LU83 has thicker carbide). Freud's 24T thin kerf rippers are the LU87R010 and the Diablo D1024.

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    • #17
      Re: What blade are you running in your r4511?

      I had the thin-kerf freud rip blade on my old BT3000/3001. It was a good blade and decided to order one for the 4511. Thanks for the reminder.

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      • #18
        Re: What blade are you running in your r4511?

        X4 for the Forrest WWII. I use a 3 inch silencer on my standard kerf and the 5 inch for my thin kerf. Be sure to get the grind #1 for flat bottom cuts, as the standard cut is an ATB.


        Click for full size image

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        • #19
          Re: What blade are you running in your r4511?

          I know this thread has been dormant a while, but my question fits the topic. Would you recommend a standard or thin kerf blade for this saw? It came standard with a thin kerf blade, right? And it isn't the most powerful saw which seems to indicate that there might be some advantage to choosing the thin kerf, but in reading through many of the posts here it seems a lot of you are using full kerf blades.

          I received a 1/8' kerf Forrest Woodworker II 30T for Christmas and am trying to decide if I should exchange it for a thin kerf. I also trying to decide if I should pay the extra for the 40T variety if you want to chime in on that.

          Thanks.

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          • #20
            Re: What blade are you running in your r4511?

            Originally posted by mgoblue7 View Post
            I know this thread has been dormant a while, but my question fits the topic. Would you recommend a standard or thin kerf blade for this saw? It came standard with a thin kerf blade, right? And it isn't the most powerful saw which seems to indicate that there might be some advantage to choosing the thin kerf, but in reading through many of the posts here it seems a lot of you are using full kerf blades.

            I received a 1/8' kerf Forrest Woodworker II 30T for Christmas and am trying to decide if I should exchange it for a thin kerf. I also trying to decide if I should pay the extra for the 40T variety if you want to chime in on that.

            Thanks.
            Your saw will spin both kerf widths, but it will have an easier time spinning a thin kerf blade (TK). A full kerf blade is 33% wider than a TK, and the difference will become most notable when cutting thicker materials. A high quality TK should be very stable, especially for hobby work, and shouldn't have deflection issues on a well tuned saw.

            I've owned both the 30T and the 40T. No single blade will cover all ranges well. The 30T cuts nearly as cleanly as the 40T, but is notably more efficient cutting thicker woods, up to ~ 3" where the 40T will bog and burn more. It will make acceptable crosscuts in many situations, but the 40T is better for finer crosscuts and plywood. Which to get depends largely on your saw and what you cut most. My favorite combination of blades for my former Craftsman 22124 (similar to your R4511) was the WWII 30T TK and an Infinity 010-060 60T Hi-ATB blade (very similar to the 60T WWI). Those two blades cover a very wide range of tasks, do an extremely good job, and are both versatile enough to be left on the saw for most every day general tasks. You're covered from cleaning ripping in thick hardwood, to very fine ply and crosscuts...kinda like getting the performance of specialty blades without the need to change them out as often, as you'll only need to swap blades when cutting in the more extreme ranges of thick ripping (30T) or fine ply cuts (60T).

            Some reading for you:
            Tips for picking a saw blade


            .
            Last edited by hewood; 01-02-2011, 12:58 PM.

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            • #21
              Re: What blade are you running in your r4511?

              Originally posted by mgoblue7 View Post
              I know this thread has been dormant a while, but my question fits the topic. Would you recommend a standard or thin kerf blade for this saw? It came standard with a thin kerf blade, right? And it isn't the most powerful saw which seems to indicate that there might be some advantage to choosing the thin kerf, but in reading through many of the posts here it seems a lot of you are using full kerf blades.

              I received a 1/8' kerf Forrest Woodworker II 30T for Christmas and am trying to decide if I should exchange it for a thin kerf. I also trying to decide if I should pay the extra for the 40T variety if you want to chime in on that.

              Thanks.
              Although I run a thin kerf Woodworker II most of the time on my R4511, you should not have issues running the 1/8" blade. I just completed 15 hard maple cutting boards in which I cut a 2" deep, 3/8" wide slot on each end with the saw using a stacked dado. Yes, I could stall the saw with an aggressive feed rate. But it cut fine with a reasonable feed rate (and without any significant burning)

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              • #22
                Re: What blade are you running in your r4511?

                Thanks hewood and tomapple for your responses. hewood I saw that link you posted earlier and have it bookmarked to read and reference. I'm not concerned too much with crosscutting as I do most of that on my sliding miter saw which might make the 30T a good choice, but I do plan to work with plywood quite a bit.

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