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  • Acurate Drilling through edge of 2x6 clear cedar

    I have to drill through the edge of some 2x6 boards in order to feed 3 threaded rods. Each board will be stacked one on top of the other in order to create a custom door. I have dowels to connect each board but I do not have a 5/8" slot on my doweling jig.

    Anyone have a good set up to drill straight through the edge of boards, with either a 5/8 paddle bit auger or the like.

  • #2
    Re: Acurate Drilling through edge of 2x6 clear cedar

    Originally posted by Cor View Post
    I have to drill through the edge of some 2x6 boards in order to feed 3 threaded rods. Each board will be stacked one on top of the other in order to create a custom door. I have dowels to connect each board but I do not have a 5/8" slot on my doweling jig.

    Anyone have a good set up to drill straight through the edge of boards, with either a 5/8 paddle bit auger or the like.
    You might be able to try something like this:
    http://www.amazon.com/General-36-37-...2551993&sr=8-2

    http://www.amazon.com/General-36-37-...2551993&sr=8-2

    I saw Tommy use one on This Old House to drill a straight hole while fixing a banister.

    If using any kind of guide, I would definitely want to have a few boards clamped together to have a wider surface for it to rest on.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Acurate Drilling through edge of 2x6 clear cedar

      I agree with CPW but here are a few more ideas....

      Practice with some 2x4 to get a feel for what you are doing.

      Make sure you have a "new" SHARP bit.

      If you won't buy a drill support as CPW showed, you can build a jig using 1x3.

      Drill slowly and back the wood to prevent tear out at the end of the cut..or flip the wood over when the paddle bit tip just pops through
      thus you can avoid tear out.

      Cactus Man

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Acurate Drilling through edge of 2x6 clear cedar

        Thanks guys, I have a drilll support from many years ago, never had good results. This is for a nice finished door. Must be set up with some sort of jig. I may go with a 3/8" hole and a long bit and my doweling jig. Hopefully this works for the straightness and then, afterwords, follow through the hole freehand with a 5/8 auger bit. (which is the desired diameter) I am hoping that the straight hole created with the doweling jig, makes the path for the 5/8" hole accurate. Thoughts ---

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Acurate Drilling through edge of 2x6 clear cedar

          I wouldn't waste the money on the jig. Those things are way to sloppy to do precision work.

          Drilling 5-1/2 inches straight is going to be a challenge. If you have a drill press or can use a friend's or one at your job, that's wold be good but even that won't *guarantee* a straight hole. Even 2 degrees out of square will put you nearly 1/4 off at the exit hole.

          I would try a rim-guided bit. A spade bit might be ok, bit it's not really rim guided. A forstner bit would be better, but I would try a deep 5/8 hole saw. Lenox makes a good bi-metal one in 5/8. Dewalt hole saws are good also but you have to check to see if they have one in 5/8 or 16 mm.

          Start off by drilling a small hole, the same size of the holesaw pilot, with a twist drill in the backside of the 2x6, keeping it straight. Feed the drill SLOW, stop often and drop a another bit or piece of rod in the hole and use a square to check if you're going off at an angle - which is easy to do with a twist drill, even in a drill press. Check often. You want to go halfway through or close to it, if you can.

          Next, flip the stock over, accurately center punch and start with your holesaw. Bore very slowly, but don't let it burn. Go no more than about 1/2 inch at a time. Stop, lift the bit out of the hole and clear the waste disk.

          If you can keep the hole pretty straight, when the holesaw gets deep enough the pilot bit will hit the hole that you drilled from the other side. When this happens, (it's very unlikely to be perfect), stop. Flip the piece over, carefully line it up and drill with your holesaw from the other side. You may still have a slight step where the two holes meet.

          If you don't have access to a drill press, you can a jig as Cactusman mentioned to stabilize the bit. But do the same thing described above, drilling from both sides. Without a drill press it's going to be VERY hard to do this accurately. Even with a drill press it will be a challenge.

          Good luck.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Acurate Drilling through edge of 2x6 clear cedar

            I'm trying to visualize the kind of door that's requiring all-thread through 3 boards. If the pieces are just going one on top of the other, don't use the all-thread to put them together. Use dowels. Space a few across the length and attach.

            I'm going to assume, however, that if you COULD do dowels you would. I'm limited in my visualization, but that's my problem! Since you have to drill all the way through, you need a NEW bit. If you have to promise your soul to do it, find someone with a drill press that'll let you use it. I can't think of any other way on a FINISH piece to make that hole.

            Use a very long, brad-point bit that'll let you clear chips easier and won't burn as much. Not I say As much there because there will be burning. No way to avoid it. Having a bit that'll assist with clearing the chip is a way to minimize that, but won't completely eliminate it.

            On a drill press, you can set up a fence and get the bit real nice and straight to the piece and clamp the piece in to stabilize it. Then, drill a little more than halfway on one edge, flip the piece and do the other half from the other edge. Have a way to "register" the bit to the board that'll let you flip it and stay in the same place.

            On the cheap, set up the 3 boards in a vice (if you have to put it on the ground to get the right amount of comfort and visibility on the drill, do so). Do all of your drilling between a couple 2x4's that you affix so that they are 100% straight, and exactly the size your drill will fit. Get as long a bit as you're comfortable, at least enough to go over halfway thru the board. Do all of your drilling into the piece in the center of the 3. When you finish with the first board that's in the center, swap it for one of the others and go again. Make sure you don't finish the hole all the way in one go unless you have a board underneath everything to eliminate the tear-out the bit will cause at the end of it's cut. Make sure, as with the drill press, you have a NEW brad-point bit that will clear the chips out all the way through the cut. I wish I was good at drawing to give you a picture of the drill-holder I have in mind. IT's a contraption, to be sure, but with it steadied on all the boards (and even overlap on both sides to help the vice keep them in line and stabilize the contraption), and drilling only on the center board, you really could, I think, do this. The idea of a practice set of pieces is a VERY good one!
            I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Acurate Drilling through edge of 2x6 clear cedar

              A drill press would be a good start but you will not find one with a 6" stroke in your buddies garage, most are in the 3 to 4 inch range. Build your jig to drill into the centre from both edges, this will effectivly cut your error in half. I would use a forstner bit for accuracy, a standard 5/8" forstner can drill a 2.75" deep hole with enough bite in the quill to be stable. I don't think drilling a 3/8 pilot and then finishing with a 5/8 auger will work as the auger requires the screw point to keep the bit centered, using a smaller pilot might work but keeping the bit straight freehand is difficult.

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