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  • zero clearance insert on ts2424

    just wondering if anyone has made a zero clearsance insert for this saw. if you have, did you find a nominal piece of stock off the shelf to build it or did you plane down a piece of nominal stock to fit? seems kind of tricky since the underside of the insert that came with the saw has a retainer clip on the end opposite the screw. do i need to install some type of spring clip as well? also, what is the big difference in the 7" dado insert to the 8" dado insert. i used the 7" dado insertthat came with the saw on an 8" stack dado and cut a 3/4" dado 1/2" deep just fine.
    Godspeed and wear those safety glasses...

  • #2
    The 7" insert will not allow you to raise the 8" dado all the way up, also you might have a problem with angled cuts(might rub against it) check first then cut. No you don't need a retainer clip for the zero clearence insert. Trace a blank with your insert then cut 1/8" oversize, use youe insert as a templet and cut with a sraight cutting bit with a bearing on it (that's the way I did it). [img]smile.gif[/img]

    Chuck
    Semper Fi <BR>Chuck<BR>USMC 66-70

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    • #3
      I have 3 inserts for my 2424.

      The OEM, which I use for angle cuts

      A shopmade zero clearance for regular blade.

      A shopmade zero clearance for the dado.

      Made a little spring-steel clip similar to the OEM insert for the shopmades; secured it underneath with a #4 x 1/4" screw.

      Good luck; work safe.

      butcherman in tx

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      • #4
        For the 8" doao ste you will need the ridgid part AC1030.
        Andy B.

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        • #5
          I used a piece of luan plywood, traced the outline using the stock insert, and sanded to fit. Drilled and countersunk the mounting screw hole. It sits a little below the table top, but haven't had a problem yet.
          Mac<P>Problems are opportunities in disguise

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          • #6
            what thickness stock did ya'll use for the insert? and thank you all for the answers.
            Godspeed and wear those safety glasses...

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            • #7
              To make the insert:

              1. Remove original insert; use a combination square to get the depth(mine is 1/4"--TS2424)

              2. If you have a jointer, face joint a hardwood board (I prefer maple) to get a flat surface to start from. Using your thickness planer, take the piece down to thickness required. No jointer or planer? Use your TS, set fence at 1/4" (or whatever your thickness is) + 1/8", run the blade up to height to cut as deep as the insert is wide (be very careful). After the first pass you should have a piece 1/8" too thick. Set your fence for the thickness you need. Now run the piece through again with the face you just cut against the fence.

              3. Place the original insert on top of the piece and draw a line around it.

              4. Jig saw or band saw about 1/16 to 1/8" off the line.

              4. If you have a router and flush-cutting bit, attach the piece you just cut to the original insert with double-stick tape. With the router bit bearing riding on the original insert, trim the insert to size.

              5. If you don't have router/flush-cutting bit, just jig saw/band saw as close to the line as you are comfortable, and sand to the line.

              6. If it's just a wee bit thick, you can get away with just rounding over the edges. If it's so high that it causes a significant "bump" or you notice a change when you pass a board over it, it's back to the sander -- to reduce the thickness this time. Check ofter -- doesn't take much. If it's so thin that boards hang on the inner lip or noticeably drop, you may be able to shim it up, then glue the sims when it's right. This has to be very close to the level of the cast iron table or you are buying trouble.

              7. To keep the insert from "lifting" on the back (motor side), I cut a piece of thin steel about, oh, 3/8" wide, drilled a hole in it about 1/16" and secured with a #4 x 1/4" wood screw

              8. Drill a hole in the front (switch side) using the original insert as a template, and countersink.

              8. With your new creation in place and the blade all the way down, turn on TS and s-l-o-w-l-y raise the blade to cut through with ta-da----zero clearance. I held the back down by hand (careful) to help the spring clip -- you could use a board and clamp instead of flesh and bone.

              Good luck and work safe.

              email me if you need info.
              omegaprog@aol.com

              butcherman in tx

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              • #8
                I would STRONGLY recommend using a clamp to hold the insert in place while you raise the blade up. Holding it with your hand just isn't safe. Dave

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                • #9
                  thank you all for the advice. [img]smile.gif[/img]
                  Godspeed and wear those safety glasses...

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                  • #10
                    This may be a question for Jake, but...does anyone know if a zero clearance insert made to fit a craftsman table saw will fit a 2424?

                    I found one on MLCSwoodworkings web page, but don't know if it will fit.

                    http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...s/bandsaw.html

                    thanks in advance!
                    Brad Hatchett<br />brad@hatchettfamily.net

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                    • #11
                      I use an insert made for an Emerson-built Craftsman. Measure your Ridgid insert and get the one with matching length. I assume the "other" length is for Ryobi-built Craftsman, but have never bothered to check.

                      Dave

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                      • #12
                        I just purchased a Leecraft insert CR-1. Though I have not had a chance to try it, it looks like it will fit. Right on the label it says that it fits a TS2424. Looks nicely made. Woodcraft carries them.
                        Mark

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