ts2424 questions

[Wally C.]

I purchased my saw 20 days ago and overall am pleased with it. I have noticed that the cast iron top seems to have a slight crown in it. When I set the 90 on the blade with a tri square, and then check the other side of the blade, it is not square, and when i split the difference between the sides, I can slip a sheet of paper between the top of the tri square and the blade on both sides.

Is this normal? If it is, it seems like I will always need to check the angle depending on which side of the blade I am cutting on.

On a related note, how much warp is acceptable in the blade, mine came from the factory with 30/1000ths side to side play

Thanks

[Dave Arbuckle]

What are you registering your square against? A lot of people try this against the blade plate. Problem is, the blade plate is not necessarily of a consant thickness, they often are built with a taper as part of the tensioning. The amount of discrepancy you are finding is a reasonable amount for this taper.

Using a straightedge against the tablesaw is one way to check flatness, if you have a good and well-cared for straightedge around.

I prefer to use machines to check themselves. To check for this crown, adjust the blade so it makes a perfect square crosscut on one side of the table. A perfect square is made when the cutoff can be flipped upside down and the cut edges fit back together (a drawing would sure be helpful here). Then, move the miter to the other side and make another crosscut. If all is true, the second crosscut will also fit perfectly.

On the blade runout, again, the measuring method is critical.

Dave

[Wally C.]

Sorry, I should have given more information. I removed the blade plate just to make sure that was not complicating matters. I have also taken a straightedge accross the top of the saw and find that if I run the straight edge to from the outside of the miter slots, it seems to be pretty flush, but not exact. When I move out to the edges of the table then it becomes apparent that the table crowns slightly in the middle.

As far as the blade runnout, I've built mount for my dial caliper which runs (tightly) in the miter slot.

Wally.

[Dave Arbuckle]

I believe I still would recommend simply making some cuts to see if the saw works properly. If it's good, it's good, if not, it needs repair or replacement.

So, on the blade, you have securely attached your indicator in one place, and 3 hundredths is the total differential between the closest and farthest tooth? That's high, but not real high. Mark Duginske recommends 0.024 T.I.R. maximum. Have you checked that this is blade runout, and not arbor runout?

Dave

[JSchnarre]

Wally,

The way to check the flatness of the bed, as we check it at the factory, is to place a long straight edge on the table surface from corner to opposite corner. There should be no more than 15 thousands gap or rise any where along that straight edge.

That is a possibly causing your problem with getting the blade square. I can't seem to think of another reason for that problem.

Check the table surface as I describe then drop me an email and let me know what you've found. If it does look like the table surface is bowed the we'll get you taken care of.

Jake

[JSchnarre]

On the blade runout issue, most OEM blades have a runout of about 8-10 thou. and the arbor should have a maximum runout of 1 thou. which when multipled by 4 or 5 to reach the edge of the blade you can get a maximum runout of at most 15 thou.

If you have a dial indicator check the arbor runout, it should be not more than 1 thou. Also check the runout with another blade to see if its the same. Another suggestion, sometimes by rotating the blade 180º on the arbor you can cancel out (somewhat) the blade runout with the arbor runout.

Jake