Announcement Module

How To Post Images

Want to know the how to upload images to your posts? Image Posting Tutorial
See more
See less

TP 1300 Knives

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
Conversation Detail Module
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • TP 1300 Knives

    How often should one expect to have to change the knives in the TP1300. I know the time will vary with the amount of use and hardness of board, but I am curious in general terms. I bought a TP1300 on Thursday last week and planed about 160 linear feet of 1X6 cypress down to 13/16" thick over the weekend. The stock appears to be more sluggish as I feed it through the planer. Could the knives be dulling noticably after only 2 days of use?

    Also, can the knives be sharpened, or do you just replace and toss the old ones?
    Brad Hatchett<br />

  • #2
    Can't say how long they should last - mine did pretty well until I hit a nail (I invested in a metal detector after the horse got out!) The knives are reversible. I found they are not had to change (reverse) at all. With the extra set of knives you have4 sets to start with - I figures the first set is the one that you make all your mistakes with and then you get a little pickier about the lumber you run through your machine. The other guys/gals have more expertise than I 'cause I'm still learnin' too. This forum is great! r


    • #3
      Have you tried waxing the bed of the planer with paste wax? I noticed the same thing and thought it was the blades until I got this tip and tried it. The planer took the wood with no problem after waxing.

      I would give this a shot. 160 feet shouldn't stress the blades much at all.


      • #4
        You can wax or powder the bed for easier running. I have had my TP1300 for over a year now and have run an estimated 4000 bft and still using the originalside of the original blades. I only run hardwood. How much are you trying to take off per pass?
        info for all: --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."


        • #5
          Usually 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch per pass. Much more than that and it really seems to want to bog down. Since I am new at planing and the tool is new, I am a little hesitant to try much more than that for fear of tearing up the tool.

          If you wax the bed, does the wax transfer to the bottom side of the stock? If so, does this affect the wood when it is time to stain or finish?
          Brad Hatchett<br />


          • #6
            The amount you bite off per pass is relivent to the width of the board. I planed down 1.5" wide strips of Oak tonight, turning the crank 1/2 turn per double pass. That's 1/32", first one side, then the other, then adjusting. I can't imagine taking off a full 1/16. 1/32" will give you pretty good tear out in grain changes.

            I don't wax or powder the machine, but I do keep a close eye on the feed rollers for build up. This can cause slippage. I usually keep the air line at hand and after each pass give a shot of air through the machine to clean out chips and dust.

            Shallower bites and debrie free wood will make blades last much longer. Black knots are killers for blades.(over dried/decaying) I cut boards and remove the knots when ever possable. They don't plane well, and do cause excelerated ware on the blades.
            John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>


            • #7
              I am on the back side of my original blades after about 6000 board feet of softwoods mostly. Waxing helps a ton! A true woodworking table saw wax will not cause any problems even if you do only a light sanding after planing. Buildup on the rollers is also a problem, when they buildup too much, snipe starts to rear its ugly head..
              \"Is it Friday yet?\"


              • #8
                As long as you use paste wax, not car wax, you will not have a problem with wax transferring to the wood.


                • #9
                  What would be an acceptable paste wax to use? I assume you mean a wax like you would use on furniture or wood floors.
                  Brad Hatchett<br />


                  • #10
                    I use TopCote, it's a spray on/ wipe off protector and lubricator for cast iron tables. Seems to work great.

                    What are we considering "dull"?
                    I flipped my blades over after they felt like a butter knife. The wood was sticking and I could
                    see the rollers just spinning, even after a clean. New blades and presto, ran like clockwork.


                    • #11
                      Dull to me was when the chip size shrank to very small and the sound of it changed. An inspection of the blades showed a super fine buildup behind them and I didn't cut myself checking the sharpness! I wouldn't call it butterknife, but new blades are like an Exacto...
                      \"Is it Friday yet?\"