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  • Poor Rip cuts on new R4510

    I just purchased the R4510 and am having trouble getting a decent rip cut. I installed a new freud 40 tooth combination blade with no improvement. I also fiddled around with the throat plate height and that didn't help either. It's kind of similar to the poor crosscut post. I am not a professional-just a hobbiest.
    Any advice?
    Thanks
    Sarah

  • #2
    Re: Poor Rip cuts on new R4510

    Can you be a little more specific about the cut quality? What is happening that you are not happy with?
    Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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    • #3
      Re: Poor Rip cuts on new R4510

      Lots of blade marks. I just want to get a smooth, flat edge.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Poor Rip cuts on new R4510

        There are a couple of things that I would look at first. First, double check that both the saws fence and blade are parallel to each other. If either one of those are off you could get some binding which could cause burning and saw marks. If the blade and fence are both true then look at your feed technique. Any sideways movement at all of your stock when feeding it thru the blade could cause blade marks as well as other bad things.

        For your ripping needs, you might want to consider getting a dedicated rip blade. General purpose and combo blades are nice and usually work very well but it's hard to beat the results you'll receive when using dedicated rip or crosscut blades.
        Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

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        • #5
          Re: Poor Rip cuts on new R4510

          As Dave said, check to make sure your fence and blade are parallel. In addition you might want to check that you don't have significant arbor runout (which would make the blade wobble, which can also cause your cuts to show tooth marks)

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          • #6
            Re: Poor Rip cuts on new R4510

            check out this wood magazine video regarding what should be checked to ensure safe and accurate saw opration:

            http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/fil...video&temp=yes
            there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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            • #7
              Re: Poor Rip cuts on new R4510

              Thank you all, Badger Dave, Tom Apple and Finer9998... The video was very helpful.. I practiced with my technique a little bit to make sure that I was not causing the problem. Then I checked the blade to make sure it was parallel to the miter gauge groove-- It seems like the blade is not quite parallel to the saw--off by maybe 1/64". Also the fence was not quite parallel to the blade I think I got that adjusted properly. I tried a few more rips-they are better but still getting blade marks. The manual does not have instructions for truing the blade with the saw.-- I guess I might have to find someone to physically help me. I don't know what you mean by arbor runout... And would it be possible to have on a brand new saw?

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              • #8
                Re: Poor Rip cuts on new R4510

                if you are getting blade marks on your rip cuts, the odds are the fence is not parallel to the blade. and i'll bet that the blade is not parallel to the miter slots. of all the adjustments for table saws, these two are crucial to accurate and safe saw operation.

                here is a copy of the owners manual for the 2410, which is the predecessor to your saw, since the owners manual for the 4510 doesn't appear to be on the ridgid website.

                http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/DBFC5B5...LS_213_eng.pdf

                page 27 covers aligning the blade to the miter slot. the same slot should be used for aligning the blade and fence since: if the blade is parallel to the miter slot, and the fence is parallel to the miter slot, then the fence is parallel to the blade. page 38 covers aligning the fence. i am assuming here that the procedures for the 2410 are the same for the 4510.

                there are several ways to accomplish the alignment on the net, just google table saw alignment. the trisquare method shown in the manual is my least favorite, unless the gap betwen the chosen blade tooth and the square is fine tuned with a feeler gauge. i use a $10 dial gauge attached to my miter gauge and i have the blade parallel to the miter slot within .0002", and the fence is aligned to the miter slot to the same tolerances. it takes a little patience but the improvement in cut quality and safety is worth it. good luck.

                BTW, arbor runout refers to the inside arbor flange on on which the blade rests. sometimes, it is out of round or warped. this can cause the blade to rotate in a non-true way. the blade should, when rotating, stay in a single plane of roration. if the blade rests on a saw component ( the arbor) which doesn't rotate in a single plane, the blade cannot be rotating properly. and yes, this can be a problem with a new saw. this site has a short video on tune up that begins with checking arbor runout:

                http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/tsalign.html

                HTH.
                Last edited by FINER9998; 08-23-2010, 08:31 AM.
                there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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                • #9
                  Re: Poor Rip cuts on new R4510

                  All of the above suggestions are helpful. Also, the stock blade is probably not the best one to use for ripping, especially if your stock is over one inch thick. A 24-tooth rip blade will probably give better results--or a 30-tooth or 40-tooth Forrest Woodworker II, or another expensive premium blade. But tune up the saw first the best you can.
                  Joe Spear

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                  • #10
                    Re: Poor Rip cuts on new R4510

                    One other item not mentioned is the outfeed support. After you push the work past the saw, is the table or other catch device parallel to the saw table. If it slants away from the fence, it will cause the wood to try to slide against the saw blade as it exits the saw.

                    Go
                    Practicing at practical wood working

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                    • #11
                      Re: Poor Rip cuts on new R4510

                      That saw you have is a good little tool, you should get good cuts with it but part of that will depend on the blade you use. Although Freud make great blades, the 40 tooth general purpose is not best for ripping (yup, it can leave marks).
                      If you want smooth clean rips (especially if you don't have a jointer yet) try one of the Freud Glueline Rip blades, there is a thin kerf which is probably best for your saw. The full kerf would be better with a more powerful motor. The glue line rip blades should give you edges pretty much as clean as a jointer on woods with a thickness of 1" or less.
                      Free woodworking plans

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