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  • Repeat cuts

    Hope this isnt too basic but I'm stumped. I have a table saw and a circular saw at my disposal. I've beeb building some basic pieces of furniture, shelves etc. and I'm having a hell of a time cutting the multiple shelves to the exact same lenght. I've tried the old "save the line" with the circular saw and I've shyed away from cross cutting long pieces of 1x8 with the table saw because its hard to manage a piece that large. Dont yet have a radial arm saw so I've been cutting these pieces with the circular saw and a square butted up on the piece to guide the saw. Still seems hit or miss. Anyone have any tips.


  • #2
    One solution is to rough-cut your big stock a little long, and then use the tablesaw for an accurate crosscut.

    No offence if you already know this, but don't, no matter what, use your tablesaw's fence for a length stop with the miter gauge. When the piece cuts off, it is fairly likely to cock between the blade and fence, causing big problems.

    An excellent stop is made by clamping a piece of stock to the operator side of the table. If the stock clears the stop before being cut off, it is safe.

    Dave
    (if this doesn't make sense, please ask for clarification)

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    • #3
      Thanks Dave. As you suspected, I already knew not to use the fence as a stop when crosscutting. Is your solution to clamp a piece of stock to the fence as a guide prior to the cut? I think thats what you mean. Unfortunately, I have a portable table saw and no extension table set up (yet). Thanks for the advice.

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      • #4
        A friend of mine stopped a professional tool demonstrator from, ahem, not Ridgid from doing this very thing. Like I say, no offense is intended.

        I saw the insert from a tablesaw where this happened once. Imagine a running blade being deflected so far that it destroyed the (not zero-clearance) insert. Guy who showed it to me said the fence was bent at about a 15 degree angle where the wood hit. Powerful stuff...

        I'm not much of a fan of the small stop block clamped to the fence either. The problem is less likely to occur, but still possible if the cutoff can rotate and touch both the fence and blade at the same time (gad, I hope that makes sense). So, the wider the block you clamp to the fence, the better.

        Dave

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        • #5
          Yep, these toys we have are great but they can put a hurt on you faster than you can say "what da". I had a small piece of wood shoot out of my mitre saw once, flew over my shoulder, hit the wall behind me and disintegrated into several more pieces. It was my fault for lifting the handle up while the blade was still moving. Makes you slow down and think.

          Later

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          • #6
            Shop notes #54 had just what you are looking for if I understood your post. The jig is called a story stick. Try looking at Shopnotes website. If not available there I'll attempt to explain the procedure.
            Dick

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            • #7
              Just looked at Shopnotes. Have to order the back issue to get the full story. I assume you probably don't want to wait so here is my version:

              1. from a piece of scrap material cut just one piece to the length you want to duplicate, can be 3/4 or whatever.

              2. Accurately cut a block that equals the offset of your circ saw (distance from side of saw being placed against guide to blade)

              3.Screw this block/cleat to end of board made in item 1 above.

              4. Hook the cleat over the end of the good piece and use the end of the jig to guide your saw. Will give you the same length piece each time.

              Wish I could say this was my idea, but I'm not that innovative. Hope you can understand the directions.
              Dick

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