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ez smart guide

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Conkle73:
    the saw guide is great but not perfect. but then again , what is? as for the antichip strips .
    i dont even use them. i took them off and measured the offset to the guide after i made a test cut on some scrap lumber, for my portercable saw with a freud diablo 40t blade the o/s is 7/16. i use this offset every time and the cut is within 1/64 to 1/128 of being perfectly straight, flat, and square. one pass over the jointer on the 1/128 setting and the edge looks like glass. i use mostly roughsawn lumber and the ezsmart guide is the fastest and safest and most accurate tool ive used to true the lumber , now i do use the table saw alot if i need to process many boards to the same size but only after one side has been straightened with the ezsmart guide. i do wish however that there was less side to side play between the guide and the base. then there would probably be no need for the use of the jointer
    Thanks for the feedback
    Let me ask you a question or two as I'm trying to decide which way to go.

    Why did you remove the antichip strip? I thought the idea was to mimimize chipout and also to make measuring easy you don't have to add or subtract 7/16 to you setup. Just measure to finish diminision lay the guide rail on the line and cut.

    Also could you speak a little more on the side play? I thought the plate that goes on the bottom of the saw was a perfect fit with the guide rail.
    Rev Ed


    • #17
      YCFDino, I'll go ahead and admit that I may not completely understand the operation of the EZ Repeato but I have a hard time believing that the system can be as fast as a tablesaw for some operations.

      For instance, if I have to cut a bunch of rails to length, it's a very quick process of setting a flip stop and moving a miter gauge a few inches. There are no clamps to fool with, no lines to set to, and no saw to pick up and put down. The same sort of speed can be realized when ripping.

      That is not to say speed is always important or that your system is not wonderful, I just have a hard time seeing that it is as fast as a tablesaw for some things.



      • #18
        Hi Phil.
        The EZ Repeater haves few advantages over the table saw fence.
        1. You have two repeaters with flip stops. One on each end the guide.
        2. There is no room for mistakes or kickbacks. As you cut the wood drops and the only place is down because the guide rail and the anti chips apply pressure from the top and on both sides of the cut.
        3. The flip stops get calibrated with the saw blades for precision (similar to CNC)
        4. And with no clamping or measurements required..
        you can cut faster than the table saw in most cases.
        5. You have to see it in action to believe it.
        Unlike the table saw that you have to walk around the out feed table in order to re-handle the wood or the panel, you can do all your cuts from one place.
        6. The best feature of the repeater is that you have repeatability on both sides of the guide rail and (this is cool) on both sides of the saw blade. My drop piece can be the good piece.
        If you're making edges from the same board the repeater is much faster than the table saw because you don't have to move the fence.
        Unless you put the table saw next to the Ez/repeater you can't see all the ez the benefits


        • #19
          Hi Rev.
          The play on the smart base and the guide is by design. if we don't have any play we have few problems. The smart base is large enough to minimize the "play" and to give you a clean, EZ and smooth cut.
          BUT.If you stop the cut and use your other hand to continue the cut will not be 100% perfect.
          With the by-directional design of the guide rail there is no need to do that.
          The Smart table or a similar rig plays a good role on the cut too. If you're working on the floor or the materials don't have the right support, you will feel the play because you're applying uneven pressure and from both sides of the guide. With guide systems the most important thing is the material support. Eliminates 99% of the potential problems.


          • #20
            Got any idea why he took the antichip strip off?

            I think I understand what your saying about the play. A certain amount of play has to be there and making sure you apply pressure on the same of the saw for the entire cut mimimizes any problem.
            I can also appreciate what you said about proper support.

            I'm trying to understand all the advantages and disadvantages before I jump.

            thanks for all your help
            Rev Ed


            • #21
              Hi Rev Ed.
              I think he take the antichip off for other cuts that require antichip protection. (veneer ply or melamine).
              You can easily make a build in off set 5/8" with some tape and 2 strips of wood. (story sticks) then you can eliminate the off set measurements again.
              The system is new and Conkle likes to enjoy the benefits one step at the time and playing safe.
              Some people do the same thing until they decide what saw to use with the EZ.
              I hope this helps.
              About the side pressure. You don't even have to "apply" any pressure. Your position and the saw do the job for you.
              YCF Dino


              • #22
                Hello to all...i'm new to the forums.
                I do love to use MY saw guide, when it is better suited...and the bestest thing i like about mine, it didnt cost $300.00-$400.00 Ive got a 3'-4'-6'& 8' for the price of one sheet of 1/4" masonite and three really straight 1x2,less than 10 bucks (15 yrs ago)OH, already had the saw and hand clamps not included in price.
                Glad i decided to finally go online to rigid...didnt know they had a message board. And ive bought enough rigid tools to want to hear others opinions...thanks