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Paid for saw ts3650, they have no fences.

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  • Paid for saw ts3650, they have no fences.

    I paid for my saw and they never had the fences for them. They got lost in the shipping. They are looking for them.

  • #2
    Box #2 contains the fence rails. It is a long slender box about 6x6x60" if I remember correctly. Not sure as it has been over a year since I got my TS3650. I am assuming that you (in addition to the HD associate) looked high and low for the second box. In my local HD I have seen them stored a couple isles apart on the upper levels beyond arms reach.

    If they don't have any one would think that the store manager might call around to other stores and see if they received some 'extra' rail sets.

    Sounds like someone did a poor job of receiving this item in or stocking the shelves. In either case both boxes are clearly marked as 1 of 2 and 2 of 2, you need both to complete the sale.

    If they want you to wait while they order a rail set in for you and the expected delivery is more than 3 days I would tell them to pound sand and return box #1, then go to another store and purchase the complete saw. you might also consider the new Craftsman mini-cabinet saws, the model 22124 or the 22114 which is on sale for ~$600 US right now. That puts it within $30 of the Ridgid's regular price 9in US dollars anway).

    [ 02-07-2005, 04:31 PM: Message edited by: Bob D. ]


    • #3
      Welcome to "Bob's" world! (...Big Orange Box, not "Bob D.!) BTW, the 22114 was on sale for $540 last week during Craftsman Club days....cabinet saw trunnions and enclosed cabinet, solid cast iron wings, a retractable indexing fence for crosscuts, and a fence and clamp on the miter gauge....heck of a deal IMHO.

      [ 02-07-2005, 06:23 PM: Message edited by: hewood ]


      • #4
        As Bob said, give them 3 days---and not a day longer. They really shouldn't have sold you an incomplete product. Either buy a complete one from another store, or as has been recommended---look at other saws---new Craftsman, Griz' or General.


        • #5
          I thought the Craftsman Club days ended on Feb 9th, which is Wednesday. I not pushing the craftsman TS, there are other good buys to be had out there too. But I do think the new Craftsman saws will up the ante a bit and you will see the others scrambling to stay in the race.


          • #6
            My fellow Americans,

            Unfortunately Canadians cannot get the new Craftsman saws yet. You see, here in Canada they have this BS organization called CSA to deal with. They are the Canadian version of UL in the states. If the manufacturer does not apply to have the equipment "CSA" approved before entering the country, then each saw must be approved one at a time. Often they just slap on a sticker. The real BS comes in when the equipment is CUL approved, but is still held up for further CSA approval.

            The second issue is the language laws here. Unlike the US where Spanish is often provided in a manual, it is not required by law. In Canada however, French is recognized by the Federal government as one of two official languages. Therefore there is always the inevitable wait for them to print absolutely everything in French as wall as English (the box, the manual, warning labels, any text on bags, etc.).

            Bringing it over the border from say, Buffalo, doesn't help. They make you pay the same tax as if you bought it in the stores here, they hit you with additional duties and in the case of the saw, if it doesn't have a CSA approved sticker on it, they would hold it up and make you pay to have it CSA approved which can take weeks to months.

            NOW, for all you Canadians reading this that are sick of the Ridgid arbor problems, missing fences, shaky legs and other quality/HD issues...Take a serious look at the new Delta 36-715, 36-716 and 36-717. Available to both Americans and Canadians, it is a really solid, left-tilting "hybrid" saw. Fully enclosed cabinet with a 4" dust port (not a crappy 2 1/2"), TEFC 1 3/4 HP motor, real Biesemeyer fence (36-717), a lot heavier and virtually no limits to the number of very nice accessories that fit it (such as the Biesemeyer removable splitter). Service knowledge, support and documentation for Delta saws are also top notch. Only $1029 CAN retail price for the 36-717.

            Click on Products > New Products

            If it weren't for the 12 month differed payment option, I would have this saw instead. In fact I may still yet. I have the new arbor, but I'm not going to put it in unless I decide to keep the 3650.

            It'll be interesting to see what's at the Canadian Home Workshop show this March. I know Delta and their dealers will have the new saw there, but maybe Sears will also have the new Craftsman ready for the Canadian market by show time.

            For those of you who have considered the General International (Chinese built, not the really nice and very expensive Canadian built General), I would steer clear of the 50-220. It's not as good as the Delta or Craftsman. It's probably not as good as the Ridgid in fact. It uses an Open Drip-Proof 1.5 HP motor. A stupid choice for an enclosed cabinet saw. General service techs told me they were concerned about the choice as well. It also has non-standard motor mounts, so you cannot change the motor even if you wanted to (unless you somehow had custom mounts welded on the new motor). It's a really bad way to mount a motor. If you ask them why the saw is advertised as having a 2 HP motor, when in-fact it has 1.5 HP stamped on it's plate, they'll give you some BS about there being 2 HP at the blade because of the pulley design (one large and one really small). Which is another problem with this saw. If you have pulleys that are too far out of alignment in one direction, there is nothing you can do about it due to the crappy non-standard way they have mounted the motor. Further more, there is no on-line documentation. If you click on "Manuals" on their web site it says "OUR WEBSITE WILL SOON OFFER ONLINE INSTRUCTION MANUALS FOR VARIOUS MACHINERY! It has said this for almost a year now. Online instruction manuals is hardly enough, especially after this long. The documentation they do have is poor, and they usually don't answer the phone when you call. You have to leave a message and wait for them to get back to you.

            Having said all that, if money's no object...well, there's no question in my mind. Get a General 350-T50-M2M (right tilt) or 650-T50-M2M (left tilt). They are not the same as General Int'l. It's one of the most solidly built saws manufactured today. Made in Quebec, Canada, it has the heaviest trunnion in it's class. It makes a Unisaw look like a toy. Any waiting for phone calls back or other nonsense would be worth it with this saw. You likely wouldn't need to speak with anyone since it's made so well. Currently sells for $2549 CAN ($2069 US).


            Also, if your in the US and you've worked your way up into this price range, I would look at the American made SawStop cabinet saw. Contractor version also looks pretty good. Save your digits!


            Best of luck in whatever you decide to do, but remember...YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE YOUR TABLE SAW FOR A LONG TIME


            • #7
              DK - That's an excellent post! You should respond more often! To go with your great list with good descriptions, I'd add the GI 50-185 contractor saw. It's no General 350, but is a very good Taiwanese made contractor saw that doesn't seem to suffer from the same lapses in designer judgement that the hybrid does. It has a large following and is highly acclaimed. Has anyone seen the Delta 36-675's that HD has been blowing out for $399 USD?


              • #8
                This is my first post on this site.

                I just purchased the 3650 and also the Ridgid planer tonight. I did this after reading every post that I could on the internet on both of these. What sold me on the saw was the cast iron top, 36" cut, the foot pedal-yes I know that you can add one to others but I like the center pedal because of where I have to "park" the saw, the good reports that I have seen on the fence, and this particular Home Depot out of 5 around here had the 3650 marked as $547 instead of $569 and I had a 10% off Lowes coupon that they honored making the total about $492.

                I made the sales guy commit to the $547 before I got to the cash register and sure enough it rang up $569 but he was right there and they chopped the $22 bucks off and then I whipped out the 10% coupon. I did earlier go to the service desk to make sure they would honor the Lowes coupon.

                I haven't checked about the arbor but we have a Ridgid authorized repair shop just down the road. I will be setting up in a couple of days.


                • #9
                  Might be a good idea to check the arbor before you start setting the saw up. If you have to take it in for an arbor replacement, now would be the best time to figure that out not after you've assembled it.

                  Welcome to the group, looking forward to hearing about all the fun you'll be having with your new toys. Congrats on the great deal you got on both the planer and the TS. They did give you 10% off on the planer too didn't they?
                  I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.


                  • #10
                    Oh yes 10% off everything. You can do it the other way as well with Home Depot coupons at Lowes. My big question now is I want to put a router table on the 3650. I have seen some posts that suggest the Mule brand etc. I was confused if they included a fence or not. I have an older Makita plunge router which I'm thinking might make it fairly easy to raise the bit up and down but I don't know. I don't have the time to make one. I saw this one at Sears for $109 and included a fence but I was a little leary of their stuff. Sears also has 10% off everything if you use their card. Since I don't have a regular joiner I want to use the router trick to straighten one side so I need a pretty good router table.

                    I also need advice on a mobile base for the planer. I may build a stand later on but I need to get it going. I saw some at Woodcraft for about $49 and $79 at sears.
                    thanks in advance


                    • #11
                      The Mule cab router table at the time I bought it didn't come with a fence (about a year ago). Just looking at their web site as I write this and didn't see a 'package deal' for the table and fence, but maybe they have such a combination. Anyway, you'll want the M-2 Router Pro 27 to fit the TS-3650. I bought the Freud SH-5 fence to use with my router table, and am happy with both so far. The SH-5 is a split fence so you could adjust the outfeed side for an edge planing operation without much trouble. Dust pickup is good when used with either my shop-vac or connected to the dust collector system. if your router is on the heavy side (I use my PC-690 most times, which is a light weight router), you might want to add some support braces to the table saw fence rails and/or router table. I like having the router table fence seperate from the TS fence, this allows a router setup to go undisturbed unless the need arises to make a wide cut on the Table Saw where the fence needs to be more than 27" from the TS blade. If you use an add-on router fence on your TS fence, then you can't make use of both tools without messing up your setup for the other.


                      • #12
                        I just checked the arbor twice, taking the blade off and inspecting the arbor with a flashlight. The threads run all the way to the solid part and as I turned the spindle the threads were constant all the way down. My personal opinion is that a stacked dado sitting on the threads don't have much meat to sit on. Any particular blade is only sitting on about 50% metal anyways.


                        • #13
                          macpiano---look back on the previous threads on the arbor issue---there are some great close-up pictures of the good and the bad. Doesn't sound like you have the problem, from your description. To answer your point, consider that the threads are cut in, but have flat tops as opposed to the threads on a typical screw, so there is still a lot of metal for each dado section to sit on---the bad arbors tapered off before the unthreaded section of shaft, causing the problem.


                          • #14
                            Oh I did look at the pictures. It's just that my last thread on the arbor next to the solid part had a black coating so it was difficult to see if it continued all the way but it does. The pallet that they got my saw off of was 3 of them packaged together as opposed to 2 others in the store that were "loose" and they couldn't even find box 2 on those so I suspect they got mine from the latest batches.


                            • #15
                              Well---sounds like you got one of the good ones. It wasn't a universal problem, and I seriously doubt they got it fixed yet in production runs, unless they have a very short factory to store time frame.