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  • BS Vibes... Suggestions?

    OK, just got the bandsaw together and test run. I got one of the older units (nice discount) so this isn't an "orange" thing...

    The unit seems to vibrate way too much. I have the riser kit installed -- don't think that is an issue. Also have the link belt so I don't think that's it either...

    In looking things over, I noticed that I can "flex" the top of the stand by rocking the bandsaw riser... this leads me to think the core problem is that the stand just isn't up to the load. The flex occurs at the rear trunions for the bandsaw.

    I've looked underneath and I guess there are a couple of ways to add some reinforcement -- maybe angle steel down each side -- tied into the leg bolts so the upper side of the angle butts up the bottom of the stand platform. Can't see a way to run angle steel under the trunions on the long dimension w/o major alterations to the existing supports (my unit has a reinforcement plate under the rear trunion/motor mount and an angle plate mounted under the front trunion).

    Looking for suggestions here... one thought I'm considering is adding a 3/4" baltic ply platform between the stand and bandsaw -- not sure if the saw will "chew" into the ply but it seems like a quick way to stiffen up the stand. Might make sense to add a ply lower shelf (screwed to the stretchers) at the same time -- stiffen up the stand lower down. I have the Herc-U-Lift so I'm worried about pulling out one of the short stretchers to ease reach for Herc foot control. Has anone taken that stretcher out? Did it make a difference?

    Thanks,

    -- Sam

  • #2
    Remove the blade and verify the wheels are balanced. If you have a dial indicator, you might also check to see that they are not out of round.

    Tim

    Comment


    • #3
      Sam,

      I bought an orange one last month and have had similar problems. Here is what I have done to reduce, but not eliminate the vibe.

      Balance the main wheels using copper wire wrapped around spokes.
      Replace blade.
      Link belt.

      Here is what I intend to do in the future:

      Replace the wheels when they arrive from Ridgid.
      True the tires.
      Stiffen the support/base.

      This is a lot of work for a new saw. In case you are not up to it, I would recommend returning the saw and getting a comparable one like Grizly,

      Comment


      • #4
        This is one of those "deals"... I got mine for $250 so can't complain too much about some "work" to get it right.

        I did check the upper wheel for balance. Ended up wrapping electrical wire on two spokes to get it balanced. Have tested the lower wheel and it also needs to be balanced. Will do that tonight. BTW, I'm using #12 electrical wire with the plastic still on -- seems to hold onto the spokes better. Is this what everyone else is using?

        Why are you having the wheels replaced? What should I be checking for there?

        Having taken a 35yo Craftsman TS from unbalanced washing machine to purring kitten, I'm going to try one thing I did there -- swapping out the pulleys for some nice balanced cast iron jobs from Granger -- anyone else tried this?

        Thanks,

        -- Sam

        Comment


        • #5
          I think you'll get your biggest improvement with stiffening up the base top. There is definatley too much flex there, and with the riser block attached and lifting the center of gravity, it is magnified. It seems like a nice machine. A little bit of tweaking is common to many large woodworking machines and Ridgid is no exception.

          Chris

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          • #6
            Just picked up a set of cast-iron, balanced pulleys at Grangers for about $25. I'm going to balance the lower wheel (w/ no pulley installed) and then test again after the new pulley is installed.

            Agree that the top could be reinforced. I've searched the forums here and seen that others have done it. Descriptions are a little vague -- and seem incompatible with my set-up (slotted angles under the top would conflict with the pre-existing reinforcements).

            Anyone have any suggestions on the best way to reinforce the stand? Still trying to figure out if a piece of 3/4 ply would do the job...

            -- Sam

            Comment


            • #7
              My gut tells me that a 3/4" piece of ply would do the trick. Mount the board to the base in the far corners.

              In response to the replacement wheels, I contacted Ridgid support. They said the the wheels should not be out of balance and they would replace them free of charge. I have not seen them yet. It has been about 8-10 business days so far.

              Comment


              • #8
                1/2 way there....

                I eliminated about 1/2 of the vibration. Not sure if it was balancing the two wheels (more wire than I like to think about) or the new pulleys. Everything has settled down quite a bit and I can now get a nickle to stand (for at least a while) while the bs is running... start-up and shut down are another matter...

                Still have a bit of misalignment on the motor pulley so that might help some more. Also still considering the mods to stiffen the stand.

                Question. I purchased an Olsen All Pro 5/8... I currently have the tension 1/2 between 1/2" and 3/4"... anyone have suggestions on a better setting... somehow threw the box away so I remember reading something about flutter on the back of the blade but that's all...

                -- Sam

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sam,

                  Try running the saw without the blade on. This may help isolate some of the problems.

                  I took the blade off and there was a significant reduction in vibration. This can mean a few things that I can think of.

                  1. The tires need to be trued.

                  2. The blade is a problem. In my case, I put a new Delta Premium blade on and it didn't make a difference in vibe. Much better cut though.

                  3. The upper wheel is significantly out of balance. I balanced the wheels and saw a reduction in vibe, but still see room for improvement.

                  I am assuming that I can reduce the vibe to an acceptable level by truing the tires. When I balanced the lower tire I removed the brush that cleans the tire. I forgot to put it back on. Some dust built up and made the vibe problem worse. I am assuming that this is the same problem as when the tires need truing.

                  I am still going to stiffen the base with a 3/4" piece of ply as you mentioned earlier. This saw just flexes too much.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Woodypa,

                    Thanks. I did run the motor w/o the belt. No significant vibration. Will try running it with no blade -- should be interesting as that eliminates the upper wheel as a source.

                    Having spent more time than I want to admit on research, I'm coming to the conclusion that the core problem is a wheel or tire(s) that are way out... I'm kinda leaning towards tires as mine don't seem to be installed all that well (little bits and pieces are missing from the rear edges). Local guy gave me the tip to clamp a ruler so it just touches the tire (or rim to test the wheel) and then spin away (looking for movement). He doesn't think you need a dial indicator -- it's either "on" or "off" enough to screw you up. Will try that tonight, along with carefully aligning the pulleys. If the tires test bad then I'm going to spring for the urethane replacements (which my local guy says don't need/can't be trued and will be a big improvement).

                    Still pondering that reinforcement. Guess I'm going to just have to breakdown and bolt a piece of ply under there... just hate undoing all those bolts

                    -- Sam

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I purchased some urethane tires, but I am waiting for those new wheels to arrive before I install them. I did not know the urethane could not be trued. I don't understand the reason why it is not necessary though. I thought that if the wheel is slightly out of round, truing the tire could fix this. If the urethane can't be trued, then the riding surface for the blade is still out of round.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        My local guy told me the urethane tires are too soft to sand (true). I guess you're right, if the wheel is out of round then this tire won't help...

                        I spent another couple of hours on it tonight. Got the pulleys perfectly aligned and that clobbered another small % of the vibes. Tried your idea of running the saw w/o the blade. Interesting in that the vibes w/o blade are less than half of w/ blade. Told me that a big part of the problem is in the top. Also told me that isn't the whole problem.

                        Wedged a screw driver blade in the upper door catch so it was just off the tire of the upper wheel. Put a flashlight on it and spun the wheel. Could see the gap changing dimensions. Watched carefully and couldn't see any change in the gap to the rim. I think it's the tire so gonna talk to the local guy tomorrow and maybe give the urethane tires a try.

                        Also going to the woodcraft store tomorrow to test drive a couple of other bandsaws so I get a frame of reference for this one. Also picking up some of those lead weights to rebalance -- will be interesting to see what impact (if any) the out of round tires are having...

                        Last, I still think who ever said the stand was a major part of the problem is dead-on. I don't think I'll ever get all the vibe out w/o reinforcing the stand.

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