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Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

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  • #16
    Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

    Personally, I like the Ridgid titanium-coated blades. I'm using the 50-tooth combination on both my CMS and my radial arm saw, and in both cases the crosscut is quite smooth. Much of course, depends on the feed rate. In both cases, the blades have seen about two years service and are still performing great.

    On black Friday, Home Depot had this blade on sale for $30, normally they are $40. I picked one up and installed it on my Ryobi BT3100-1. Very smooth rips and I'm quite pleased. That saw spins at around 4800 rpm, and with the new 50T combination, it works very nice.

    On the subject of the 4512, I was in Home Depot a couple of days ago and got a much closer look at it. The new wheel/lift assembly appears to be better able to handle the saw, then did the conventional Herc-U-Lift on the granite-top 4511. Perhaps that is because the saw is a bit lighter, but still, I like the design of the lift better.

    I do like the fence, it's a three-point aluminum, very much like the one on my BT3100. On the latter, the fence is always locked down perfectly and over the years, I've never had a problem with it. The extruded T-slots in the fence make it ideal for jigs and sacrificial add-ons. And the 3-point T-square-like assembly securely locks fore and aft.

    I'm not so sure about the two-piece rail assembly though. Something about that joint/seam right there, almost in front of the blade, doesn't seem right to me. I would have loved to see a single piece rail, separately boxed/tubed; but, I do imagine handling during shipment and possible loss had some bearing on the final determination by manufacturing.

    The two stamped tables (wings), are sort of a negative I think and I really am not impressed with that support rod that goes between the front and real rails on the right hand side of the machine. That just strikes me as something to grab hold of, or hang something on and possibly leverage the rails into bending. I suppose the purpose is to keep the rails from being bent, but I would be concerned.

    The stamped-steel tables one could probably live with, only time will tell. But on the display unit, I could already see that there's a problem. On this particular 4512, the right-side table is too high and the fence hits it. too the point where you have to lift the fence at the front in order to get it to pass over the table. I suspect that the table is somehow adjustable, but it appeared to be solidly bolted to the rails and I didn't see any release of any kind. So, you probably have to loosen the bolts and hopefully the mountinig holes are slots, to allow for some "adjustment".

    But as it sat there, you could already see where movement of the fence was abrading the top front edge of this table and the paint was showing significant wear. Definitely NOT right!

    Other than that, I'd say the price is certainly right. But I do think I'd have to take a much closer look at the lift and tilt mechanism and of course the motor and drive. Keep posting those pictures.

    My little Ryobi BT-3100-1 isn't made with quite the same "oomph" that this beast has and so from that point of view there's nothing to compare. But with my other features, I think I need to wait awhile before I jump on a bigger saw. Still, it's always an ambition to see these new offerings from Ridgid and maybe hope that it might be a good reason to upgrade.

    CWS

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

      Originally posted by cactus View Post
      I am a fan of Forrest blades. It's what I have always used and you can't go wrong with it. There are many other choices, but that is what I use and have had excellent results with. It's not a blade you will toss into a pile after a while like some other cheap blades.

      Red
      I like Forrest and Ridge Carbide (no relation to RIDGID) blades.
      I have others but those are my best blades and dado sets.
      their TS2000 and RS1000 blades were rated as good as or better than Forrest by fine Woodworking and American Woodworker magazines, as were their router bits.

      On the 12" SCMS I have had good luck with both DeWalt and
      RIDGID blades.

      All of Ridge Carbide Tool blades are 100% American made,
      same for their router bits. Here's a link to their 2010 catalog;
      http://ridgecarbidetool.com/skin/fro...atalog2010.pdf

      They will also sharpen all make saw blades, dado sets, shaper cutters, and router
      bits, see their catalog for details. I have no connection to Ridge Carbide Tool other
      than having a few of their blades which I like and having met some of their people
      at woodworking shows and they were very helpful and knowledgeable.
      Last edited by Bob D.; 12-05-2010, 10:49 AM. Reason: added link to catalog
      ---------------
      Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
      ---------------
      “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
      ---------
      "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
      ---------
      sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

        To the OP: Any new news on your new TS? Any issues to report? Have you had any issues with the fence and the split fence rail? My local Home Depot is an hour away and doesn’t have one to look at. I’m interested in possible picking one of these up for my small garage workshop to primarily make plywood shop cabinets i.e. not fine furniture.

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

          Hi!
          Anyone know about SPECIFICATIONS of motor this TS? Does it work with 220V or Only 120V?
          Thank you!
          Alex.

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

            It comes from the factory wired for 120v but can easily be rewired.

            Now I have a question. I just purchased mine yesterday from HD. The assembly was pretty easy for me up until I tried to level the steel extensions to the cast iron table. Well I bought the only R4512 in my area so trying to get HD to trade me steel extensions isn't an option. So I took a file to mine and made an actual slot. One problem fixed.

            Now that the saw is assembled, I flip the switch. Passes the nickle test with flying colors and is surprisingly quiet. Awesome until I start is up again. Now on start up I get a loud squeal. The belt tension seems good, so is it safe to assume the pulleys are miss aligned?

            Does anyone else have this problem?

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

              My son bought me one of these a couple weeks back also. I LOVE it. After assembling it, putting a good 60-tooth finish blade on, and adjusting everything to get it square, it is awesome. Every cut is perfect, and being gunshy from other table saws I have had, I still double check with a tape measure to verify the cut width. It is rock solid spot on every time. I do plan to get a good (better) miter gauge though. This one works and is pretty accurate, but not very quality. I do not trust it. Any ideas? Thanks guys!!!

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

                Originally posted by Alex_u View Post
                Hi!
                Anyone know about SPECIFICATIONS of motor this TS? Does it work with 220V or Only 120V?
                Thank you!
                Alex.

                Just read the manual...it shows the proper wiring for both 110 and 220...works on both, but comes pre-wired at 110...

                Comment


                • #23
                  Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

                  I just received a R 4512 as a replacement for my TS 3650 because it could not mount Dado blades evenly. Now I have this new saw and cannot find a zero clearance insert or even a Dado insert that will fit it. Anyone know of a source for this part? I cannot find the R 4512 on Ridgid parts . com to try to order this. Thank you.

                  Mike

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

                    I made my ZCI and dado inserts out of 1/8" hardboard.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

                      When you say "Hardboard" are talking about the brown board that looks like it is compressed wood? How did you rout out the areas for the adjustment screws? Thank you for your info.

                      PS I am not trying to high jack your thread but my thread with my question was not replied to.


                      Mike

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

                        Originally posted by Woodlvr View Post
                        When you say "Hardboard" are talking about the brown board that looks like it is compressed wood? How did you rout out the areas for the adjustment screws? Thank you for your info.

                        PS I am not trying to high jack your thread but my thread with my question was not replied to.


                        Mike
                        1/4" MDF will work very well. here is a video about making your own ZCIs:

                        http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/178/...arance-insert/

                        this video addresses a ZCI for a stack dado blade, but the same process applies to regular blades. and the video's saw is a cabinet saw, which uses a much thicker insert than does the 4512. like the 4512, my insert is relatively thin, hence the 1/4" MDF. there are a feww things i do differently than the video:

                        1. you can use a jig saw to roughout the shape of the ZCI if you don't have a band saw.

                        2. when shaping the ZCI on the router table, i put 2 strips of 1/8' harboard(yes, the brown wood sold @ lowes and HD) between the insert and the ZCI blank. this eliminates the possibility of the router cutter blades nicking the original insert if the cutter height isn't just right.

                        3. before separating the ZCIform the original insert, mark the holes that are used to attach the insert to the table. then drill them out with either a hand drill or a drill press.

                        4. @ 1/4", the insert will be too thick and protrude above the saw table. route a rabbet around the underside to flush the insert to the table. if too much material is removed, 1 or more layers of painters tape can be use to flush it up. because the insert is so thin, and mdf lacks the same machineability of metal, adding levelling screws would be a bit of a challenge. hence the painter's tape.

                        5. i would never use the fence to hold the insert in place while raising the spinning blade. too much risk to the fence for me. get a scrap 2x or piece of plywood and lay it on top of the unkerfed ZCI. clamp this hold down scrap on both the infeed and outfeed side of the blade. then, energize the saw and slowly raise the blade to whatever height you want.

                        lastly, google "zero clearance insert" for more info. you'll find many more videos and instructions. HTH.
                        there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

                          This is my first post. I just got the R4512 and the MS1290LZA a few weeks ago and got them setup.

                          My suggestion for getting the R4512 out of the box was this. Mine was delivered on a pallet. I cut the box open with a box knife and removed all of the sides. I was able to scoot the foam packaging over to one side of the pallet. I then cut through the styrofoam and was able to slide the saw out of the packaging (still upside down, as that is the way it needs to be done to start putting it together.)

                          As I slid it out of the styrofoam, I slid it onto the bottom of the cardboard box that was still sitting on the pallet. This made it real easy to move and navigate since it was just me unpacking it, but it also allowed me to avoid scratching it. The table went directly from styrofoam to cardboard.

                          Just a suggestion.

                          This is my first table saw, and I plan to keep it for a long time. So far, completely satisfied, it is everything I was looking for when I bought it.
                          Last edited by Friscotxkid; 03-28-2011, 08:10 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Ridgid R4512 Table Saw

                            Today I got my first hands on look at the 4512 hybrid saw. The had one setup in HD near the tool crib. Which is something have not done for a long time, so my hats off to HD for committing some space to show off the new saw.

                            I looked at it and in my mind I was comparing it to both my Ts-3650 which I had for many years and recently sold, and also to my new Unisaw. That may not seem like a fair comparison but I think its interesting to know what they have in common or not.
                            • 4512 is very sturdy on its feet, much better than I remember my 3650 to be.
                            • Fence is similar to the 3650, I like the handle and lock on the 4512, but I think the 3650 fence itself was somehow slightly better.
                            • the two piece rail was smooth when traversing the fence across it, didn't seem to be half the problem I thought it might be.
                            • The built in mobile base (is it a true Herc-U-Lift?) seemed to be up to the task of getting the saw around the shop floor.
                            • back rail I like especially the t-slot on the bottom which will let people attach a outfeed table easily and securely.
                            • handwheels on the height and bevel cranks were not as nice as the 3650 were, felt slightly smaller in diameter too.
                            • tool less blade guard (UL requirement) probably will work OK once you get used to it, but I think the guard on my Unisaw is much easier. I remember it was one of the features that I likes the most. The ease with which the Unisaw guard goes off and on one-handed is great.
                            • steel extensions I do not care for, and I would not want to buy a saw with them. Too bad they couldn't reuse the wings from the 3650/3660 line or from the 4510. I bet if you polled everyone and asked if they would be willing to pay $40 or so more for CI wings vice steel you'd have 100% of them saying YES!!!
                            • fully enclosed cabinet with motor inside is a plus for dust collection and for noise abatement. That's two safety gains by moving the motor inside and enclosing the cabinet, well worth the engineering effort and the added cost. I wonder how many wear hearing protection with their saws, especially the compact saws with universal motors which are even noisier. Better dust collection means less dust in the air which eventually makes its way into your lungs. Mitigating airborne dust and noise levels are two engineering controls which are preferable to PPE (dust masks and ear plugs). Engineering controls are passive and work every time, PPE protects you ONLY when you remember to use it.
                            • The power switch had the big OFF paddle (another UL requirement I believe), but it felt cheap like it would not hold up to years of use. Lack of a power fail lock out is something that I think should be built in to every tools of this type. On a 220V cabinet saw like my Unisaw, the magnetic starter will not re-energize the motor if there is a momentary loss of power for whatever reason (lightning strike, motor vehicle accident, etc), not until you manually push the start button again. Every 120V contractor or hybrid table saw I know of, if the power goes out the tools restarts on its own when the power comes back on (assuming you were not able to find the power switch and turn it OFF in the dark). I posted a while back (before Christmas I think it was) about a device you can insert in line with your tools to protect against an situation like I describe above. They are well worth the money.
                            That's about all I can think of at the moment. Its not a TS-3650 and its not a Unisaw, but then they didn't claim it was. The 4512 looks to be a decent TS for the price. CI Wings would put it on the top of the heap I think for sure.
                            ---------------
                            Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
                            ---------------
                            “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
                            ---------
                            "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
                            ---------
                            sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw

                              Bob D ...... from New Jersey

                              I grew up in NJ and was there till 1999 when I got transferred out of state. Enough for social hour, I'll get down to the business at hand.

                              I purchased the R4512 a couple days ago and am still putting it together. I have my tables level & true to each other. My fence slides from one section to the next without a hitch. (Except for the joint in the rail). No more to be said on that front. That topic has been discussed at length, and I too have the issue.

                              As a follow-up to the 2 piece front rail...... I had damage on my original rail (from the box - and the blade raising "knob") as shown in the photos in previous posts. I took mine back to the store & they gave me another from another box. It too had damage at about the 10" mark. That handle/knob sure is a problem in packaging. I've also contacted Cust. Serv. and they're sending me yet another rail.

                              My real problem / question is this ......... As I look at my fence from the side of the saw it appears to "touch the table" near the front rail and it then "rises" a bit towards the rear of the fence/table. Also, when I clamp it down it seems "very hard" to me. Could there be an adjustment to "lengthen" the fence slightly. It seems to me that it might be too short (front to back) and that's why I seem to have to force the handle down.

                              This is my first saw of this "quality" and I don't want to force anything. I am willing to take as long as it takes to "set it up" so that when I finally do "fire it up" it will work like a quality tool should. For the moment, the fence is the major issue for me. I don't want to go much further till I have that issue resolved.

                              I should add that my blade and riving knife/separator are "on the money" right out of the box. The blade is also true at 90* to the table top. I haven't yet completed the remaining "alignment" tasks. That's probably on tomorrow's agenda.

                              Any help you (or any other individual) can offer would be greatly appreciated.

                              Steve (now in NM)

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Re: Ridgid R4512 Table Saw: Unpacking and Assembly

                                loosening the 2 8-1.25 x 20mm Socket Head Bolts that attach the fence may allow the fence to be pulled away from the fence base, thereby "lengthening the fence somewhat. the 6-1.0mm Hex Nut that is attached to the fence lock rod will also need to be loosened to allow for this movement. i'm looking at this parts diagram as a reference for these suggestions:

                                http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0910054.pdf

                                it's taken from the owners manual for sears' cousin of the 4512 (the saws are identical). also, here is anothern assembly manual for the sears counterpart to your saw:

                                http://download.sears.com/misc/00921833Assemble.PDF

                                it seems resemble the type of instructions that accompany many grizzly tools products, with clear photos of the discussed instructions. good luck with your new saw.
                                there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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