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If this is a new problem then the first thing I'd look for is a sawdust buildup inside the planer. A buildup could cause the cutter head to not lower equally on both sides. Also, did you face joint one side of the board before planing?
Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.
If a thickness planer, you probably have inadequate support on either the infeed or outfeed side.
IF there is no lock on the cutter head of a thickness planer, that could also cause that problem. You may have to hold the depth adjustment knob if the planer is getting old and worn to keep it from vibrating up or down. Dull blades and too deep a cut will aggravate this problem.
Is the bottom side of the board flat?
Does the board have a warp (bow, crook, twist, or cup) in it?
Bowis a deviation flatwise from a straight
line drawn from end to end of a piece.
Crook , also known as crown, is a deviation
edgewise from a straight line drawn from
end to end of a piece.
Cup is a deviation from a flat plane, edge to edge.
Twist is a deviation from the flat planes of
all four faces by a spiraling action, usually
the result of seasoning.
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is the cutting head even (level) in the machine, may be it needs some adjustments or some thing has slipped,
Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
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Check the easiest thing first. Try adjusting both infeed and outfeed tables. This almost always allows the problem to be adjusted out.
Properly adjusted tables also make the feed rollers pull the stock through much more reliably.
However, even a perfectly adjusted machine will plane a board that has a few thousandths difference across its width IF the board has uneven grain - i.e., wide spaced grain on one side and tight on the other. A few thou in woodworking generally doesn't matter. When you start seeing ten thou, it can get to be problematic depending on the destiny for that board. You have to have near perfect boards for machine cut thru-dovetails, for instance. Assuming your machine is adjusted well, the solution is to turn the board around and feed it through again. With some woods, notably hard maple, this does increase the chance of serious tearout. That's why we buy extra wood.
Also, virtually all boards are cupped. I got rid of my joiner to save floorspace, but get goods results by starting with the concave side down and taking veeeerrrry light passes through the planer until the top of the board is flat.
Finally, heavy cuts with a lunchbox planer make everything worse and exaggerate every misadjustment. It's not a heavy cast iron machine, and won't work like one no matter what.