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Ridgid 2424 Tablesaw

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  • Ridgid 2424 Tablesaw

    I am hoping someone can offer me a little advice. I like to tinker in the woodworking arts and I am about to purchase the 2424ts from Ridgid. Through all the research I can stand I don't see a better value out there than the 2424ts. Are there any bits of advice that anyone can give on what to look for as I set up my saw that you all ran across while assembling and setting up your own. Thank you for any information and a wonderful forum for discussion.

  • #2
    A dial incator is a must.
    Andy B.


    • #3
      I would have to say my best setup tool was my adjustable Brown & Sharp Tri-Square. I have a 12" and 18" rule for it. I also used a set of feeler gauges to bring my saw to tolerance. I ended up with in .002"... The other thing you must have is patients. You want to take your time and get it right. After I got my saw setup, I took a piece of scrap plywood about 8" square and made a cut on all four side adjusting the fence in each time. I then check the scrap piece of wood with the tri-square for gaps. The scrap piece was square and showed no visible gaps. There are many ways to align your saw, and they are all good. I use the tri-square because that is what I had on hand. Also if you loosen bolts to align something, tighten the bolts a little at a time moving around randomly. Go over the same bolt 2 or 3 times if needed to secure. Tightening all at once will sometimes move what you just aligned out of placeā€¦ This is my $0.02, hope it helps.
      Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\" gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\"> gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>


      • #4
        See if you can find an earlier thread (first week in January) called something like "New Table Saw." When I assembled mine, the instructions call for using C clamps to align the edges of the table and the wings, before tightening the nuts that hold the wings to the table. That is fine in theory, but it assumes that the wings and the table are perfectly identical in thickness, since the purpose is to get the TOPS of all three on the same plane. However, because of the ever-present Dr. Newton (i.e., gravity), if the table is a tad thicker than the wing, it will be the BOTTOM edges that the C clamp lines up. That was my observation, and I solved it by inserting a small steel shim between the bottom face of the C-clamp and the bottom edge of the wing. When the C-clamp was tighted, this forced the wing up to the point where it was flush with the table, and I tightened the nuts.

        I agree with the other guys: take your time; figure out the purpose of each of the alignment steps and then check the result to your own satisfaction. I spent three sessions of a couple of hours each, but I sort of had fun exploring the new toy.


        • #5
          The first thing you need is patience. Second patience.

          I set my saw up three times because I did not fully understand the instructions the first time. There are tree thing to pay very close attention to. First, the wings must be even with the table. I used C clamps but did not tighted them down. I left them a little loose and put pressure on them in whichever direction I needed to gain a smooth transition and wile holding that I tightened the bolts with my other hand. Second is blade and fence alignment. I did this per instructions and got very good cuts. However, the third thing to do is get a tolarence gauge and redo the aignment of the blade and fence. I just did this last night because I finnally got access to a gauge. This was the third time on this step. I got mine with in 1/1000th on the blade and the fence opens up 3/1000th at the heel. I could not try it out because my 6 month old was in bed but I can't wait to get home today and try it. Good luck It is the best saw for the price I'm going to convert to 220 because of all the good things I've heard about how it runs.


          • #6

            Just a quick note...I just purchased my saw 10 days ago. The best tip is "set it up several times". I found the assembly very easy, but the set-up could be intimidating at times. But after you've completely assembled the saw, you soon understand how each set-up effects the next. Once assembly is completed, the set-up instructions for each component are quite obvious.
            Once set-up is complete, try different cuts until your satisfied. I purchased a 7" dado head yesterday and spent some time making various dado's, slots, and a couple of lap-joints. This caused me to perform some minor adjustments again. Using it is the only way you'll learn, in detail, about the individual components of the saw. Good luck.


            • #7
              When I assembled mine a year or so ago, I went methodically through the manual and assembled the saw. After I was done I found in the bottom of the box a video tape. I thought "cool a tape on different cutting techniques, etc.", well it was a tape on how to assemble the saw. Make sure you dig through the box first...


              • #8
                I just wanted to drop a little to thank everyone for their input with my question. I picked up my saw today around 3pm and about 9pm I couldn't resist and hit the power switch to see it run. Wow. Is this thing on. It is so amazing quiet and smooth. I haven't run any wood through it yet but I am giddy with anticipation. The instructions were clear and straight forward. I would have to say the fussiest part for me was aligning the splitter and blade guard. The extension wings, fence, etc., went together very smoothly. Once I get to cut some wood I am sure I will doing some fine tuning but I don't mind that sort of thing. Thanks again.