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TS2424 Dust Collector

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  • TS2424 Dust Collector

    There was a previous thread about the difficulty of dust collection on a table saw, and how well the Ridgid version performed.

    I can report that, quite unintentionally, I did a comparison test of the dust collector today. After a series of cuts was completed, I disconnect the shopvac from the saw, cleaned up, and went on to other things. Then I realized I needed one more cut. You guessed it: I turned on the shopvac but forgot to hook it up to the saw. There was sawdust all over the place. This suggests that, while not perfect, the dust collector does a pretty good job, if only the numbskull running the saw remembers to use it.

  • #2
    I've tried that experiment before, also. Glad to hear it is reproducible. What we won't do to enlighten people, huh?



    • #3
      Its a dirty job, but someone's gotta do it.


      • #4
        Hello all,
        Another twist to the dust collector that came with my Ridgid table saw is that it has forced me to go ahead and get my saw wired for 240v. My shop is not wired the way I would prefer it to be so I am going to utilize my dusty old 240v 50amp welder feed to power my saw. This will eliminate the problem of trying to run the shop vac with the saw at the same time. I am going to also ad some extra breakers in the panel and split the shop up a bit. I have contacted an electrician to tap the side of the 240v 50amp plug box and stub a 240v 15amp breaker and smaller plug box. This should be sufficient per my manual. I plan to also change the corded supplied with the table saw and beef it up a bit while extending it to about 25ft to refrain from losing power. This should let me move freely about the workshop and power the saw in any location I desire. I have been running my saw without the vac lately and agree there is a big difference. My shoes are filthy when I get done. I got to also get the Ridgid muffler next time I visit HD. I wish they could find a way to include the muffler in the box with the 16-gallon 6.25hp vac...
        Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\" gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\"> gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>


        • #5
          Mr. Johnson,
          Save your money rather than buy the muffler for your shop vac. I have the same one, and I did buy the muffler. While it did cut the noise a Db or 2, the reduction in noise is not worth the money. Unless of course you want to be able to point your discharge up and have it blow in your face! I use my shop vac on almost every tool in the shop, and the shop vac is the loudest tool in the shop. For me it's time to start playing with DC at the stores!


          • #6
            The noise from the shopvac is why I went to an actual dust collector. I have the dust collection network in my shop so I just hooked up my dc to it and away I go. The dust collector is about half the noise and does a much better job. I actually have been known to leave my dust collect running between runs and machines. It is so quiet I don't mind leaving it run. I have a PSI collector.

            I agree with you guys about the wiring. I wired my shop with a dedicated circuit for DC. That circuit has 4 switches so I can turn it on from any wall in my shop.

            Good Luck,



            • #7
              If you install a 220V outlet and re-wire your motor for 220V, there isn't any need to upgrade the cordset that came with the saw. In effect, by doubling the voltage you will be (approximately) halving the amperage, so the cordset is more than adequate, and you could easily add 25 feet of 12AWG extension cord (though you'll have to make the extension yourself).


              • #8
                Speaking of table saw dust collection, the hardest part of assembling my TS2424 was figuring out how to actually insert the dust collection chute around the flanges of the saw base. Maybe I wasn't holding my mouth right but I got it jamed a couple of times trying to orient it correctly. I'm surprised I didn't break it. The directions are a little vague on this point with no illustrations and the video didn't address it. Everything else went together and was adjusted as expected. Did anyone else have any problems or was I just haveing a bad day?

                Wood Dog


                • #9
                  1. Installing the dust collector did take a little while. The design of the thing is that it is the springiness of the molding that holds it tight to the flanges in the saw base, and by design it is a tight fit. I, too, was afraid I'd bust the thing, but I discovered that if you removed the motor, you could at least claim to have busted it with two hands. Suddenly it snapped into place and I felt like a genius. (At least, until I later forgot to turn on the vacuum.)

                  2. What video?


                  • #10
                    Thanks for the input. I plan to make my 220v extension out of 10 or 12ga wire. I think I would rather attach the cord directly to the saw to eliminate the added cost of plugs. So in essence I would make a cord up as you said from 12ga. AWG and attach one male 220v plug on one end of the cord and the opposite end to the saw. This should work out great. I don’t have any other use for a 220v cord at this time so I may as well dedicate it… Once I get the rest of my shop put together I would be interested in purchasing possibly the Ridgid dust collection machine or something on that order. I am planning a new woodworking bench that will be 18ft long and have a spot for my chop saw and router to fit flush with the bench top and easily removed if needed. At that time it would be great to plumb the DC fittings as I erect the bench. Thanks GaryOW for your advice on the Ridgid shop vac muffler. I may save the $10 spot. I do wear a small headset ear plugs when I work to save the little hearing I have left. What plug confiuration would be the best to use for the 220v. I am open... [img]smile.gif[/img]
                    Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\" gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\"> gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>


                    • #11

                      I heard someone mention a video for the table saw. When I bought mine there was no video included nor mention of one. I called Ridgid anyway to inquire and found that they do in fact have one and promptly sent it to me. (I've found their customer service to always be great.) It serves to reinforce and in some cases better illustrate the manual but is not intended to replace it. I found it helpful in clearing up a few questionable points. They also have one for the RAS but I'm not sure about any of the other products. I think it's great idea.

                      I found myself wondering however if this thing would have been a little easier to install if it were sequenced a little earlier in the process ( like right before you placed the stand on the saw base.) The instructions seem to assume you bought this kit after assembling the saw which is probably correct for a lot of folks but mine was included in the promotion.

                      Oh well, all's well that end well.

                      Take care,

                      Wood Dog


                      • #12
                        I had heard that the vac mufflers were ineffective. I built a 3/4 inch plywood box lined it with carpet, cut 1 1/2 inch exhaust hole in the top, hinged door for access and put casters on it. Put the shop vac inside an you can hold a conversation while it's running.


                        • #13
                          Big Johnson: The plug you attach to the 220V cordset is fixed (per NEC) by the circuit protection (fuse or breaker) you put on the circuit: there is one for 220V-1 Phase-15A and one for 220V-1 Phase-20A. In either case, you buy a matching receptacle to mount in the box wired to your panel.

                          15 amps is plenty for your circuit, but 20A plugs and receptacles are more common. 12AWG is OK for either. (These are commonly referred to as "air conditioner" receptacles.)

                          Note that this is a 3-lead plug (HotA, HotB and Ground; there is no neutral); it differs from a 110/220 plug, which has four wires and permits the device to take either 110 or 220 from the circuit. Four wire receptacles and plugs are usually for a much higher amperage (such as for electric ranges and dryers).

                          HD has the receptacles and plugs (stick to either Leviton or Hubbel brand), but if you're not confident with this type of work, spend what it takes to hire an electrician.


                          • #14
                            Actually two configs for at least most 220v. I'm not sure about 15A.

                            There are straight plugs and twistlock. If you're looking at a plug/socket and they seem amazingly expensive, make sure you aren't looking at a twistlock. We use them in computer rooms to keep someone from unplugging equipment by stumbling on the cord.

                            I have seen people recommend twistlock for tablesaws, but cannot understand why. If you are stumbling on the cord of a running tablesaw, you have real safety issues.

                            Be sure to keep your plug convenient to disconnect when you need to work on the saw.



                            • #15
                              Thanks guys,
                              I do have an electrician coming to do a couple of things and wire my welder/saw electrical stub box. I think I will drop him a few extra bucks and have him take care of the cord and plug while he is at it... I better leave this to the professionals. I don't want any unnecessary smoke in the shop!

                              Well, better go out and start moving snow... Take care...
                              Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\" gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\"> gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>