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  • #16
    Re: fences for the rigid 4511

    Maybe one of the more recent purchasers will chime in with accurate measurements. But, in my memory using the stock rail it was pretty high probably close to 3/8". (the T2 rail sits too high on the 4511 and even blocks the miter slots. I reworked the 4511 rail and then shimmed under the T2 tube to get it the right height)

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    • #17
      Re: fences for the rigid 4511

      Tomapple is right it does sit high if you don't re drill the holes. The fence sides of the T2 however can be adjusted up or down a bit by flipping the fence upside down and loosening the adjustment bolts.

      That is what I did to bring the sides closer to the table top. My tube does interfere with my miter gauge if I wanted to do larger crosscuts, but small ones no biggie.

      I bought an extra Starrett tape for the day when I decide I want to re drill the holes to lower the whole thing, but the Makita SCMS I got last year does fine for my crosscutting, so not in any hurry at this time.

      I have been quite pleased with the T2, and it holds its settings so well that what used to be an issue with all that jumping left and right with the old fence is now replaced by dead on cuts.

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      • #18
        Re: fences for the rigid 4511

        ok, about the fence height, it was 7/16th gap at the front of the saw, 3/8 at the back of the saw, i could put my index finger under it in the front all the way to the back of the nail, NOT OK. So to fix all these problems with one repair, i replaced the original angle iron on the front with a 3"x3" angle and drilled all holes and countersunk them in the new piece of angle. Now there is another problem in doing this, it makes the rail 9/16th of an inch TOO LOW, so i just planed a piece of oak to shim it perfectly. It really glides smooth as silk now, and 1 more thing, i also removed the sliding pad off of the back of the fence for the back of the rail and cut it on the b/s, almost in half longways, sanded it to proper thickness to match the front gap between the fence and the saw, now it's a hair over 1/16th inch front and rear. I like it a whole lot better now. Oh and to stop the miter sled from hitting the back rail, I took it off and used a bench grinder to kind of groove the metal out so the miter slots were completely clear, and when you drill the new angle iron for the tube to bolt to it, you can adjust the holes in it to make the factory measuring tape to be dead on accurate. Sorry for the long post.

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        • #19
          Re: fences for the rigid 4511

          Woodlum, wow yours was sitting high but sounds like you got it where you want it now with your new angle iron.

          As a direct bolt on my T2 fence rides about 3/16 above the table, which is okay for most of my work except cutting 1/4 ply case backs, then I have to clamp on an auxiliary fence face.

          When I re drill mine I will probably do as others have done and clamp the OEM rail to the T2 rail as a drill guide and drill it out to lower it slightly.

          You will really enjoy using your saw now!!!

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          • #20
            Re: fences for the rigid 4511

            Originally posted by Tin Can View Post
            I am thinking I may just replace the split tube with a solid tube. Since I have added new faces my fence does a good job.... Has anyone out there replaced just the front tube and rear rail with solid pieces and kept the fence?
            I replaced the 2-piece tube and the back rail with single pieces of 2" square steel tubing (.083 wall) and 1" angle respectively. Drilled and tapped the tubing to match the existing holes. I also lengthened them slightly to increase rip width capacity.

            After all that I still wasn't happy with the OEM fence, so purchased the Delta T2. It's a huge improvement.

            By inserting a few flat washers between the square tubing and its mounting rail I was able to use my existing tubing to get the extra length rather than the shorter ones that shipped with the T2.

            I made the following mods to the T2:
            1. Fabricated a new rear guide and hold down from a piece of UHMW by cutting a block about 3/4" thick with a slot sawed to fit over the back rail. The existing one held the fence too high above the table and didn't hold it down tightly enough (the back lifted up more than I liked).
            2. Raised the fence faces to sit flush with the bottom of the fence by removing them and using a rat-tail file to elongate the mounting holes in the fence. This way the fence itself could sit lower so the miter gauge would clear.

            I now have about 1/16" clearance between the bottom of the fence and the top of the table and the miter gauge just clears the top of the T.

            After these tweaks, I am very pleased with the performance of the T2. It's well worth the money and the effort.

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