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  • Measuring Angles to be cut ??

    I'm putting in new shelving in our pantry (my first project using dado's and mitre cuts). The wall it goes against has an angle on it about 7" it is at the left end. How do you figure out the angle and transfer that to the wood to be cut?? Second then I need to figure the angle of the two side boards that have to go together on that side with a mitre cut so it looks like a finished job when done. I know I'm going to a lot of trouble for a shelving unit in the pantry, but I figured that no one will really see it and it will be good practice project before I get into doing these things with expensive hard woods.. Thanks [img]smile.gif[/img]
    Semper Fi <BR>Chuck<BR>USMC 66-70

  • #2
    Transferring an angle is the job of a sliding bevel. On the picture on this page, the item in the lower left is a sliding bevel: http://shop.woodcraft.com/woodcraft/...6VJ73WM6FH8FG2 . You should be able to find one (probably not a neat Rosewood one ) at your local home improvement center.

    The idea is to put the bevel into the corner so one leg is on one wall, and the other leg on the other. Then you tighten the bevel so it will hold that angle.

    I'll bet someone who knows geometry well can remember how to bisect an angle with a compass. Unfortunately, that isn't me. I would have to use a protractor to take off the angle, or get a geometry book from the library.

    Dave

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    • #3
      Dave is correct. With this tool you don't really need to know (or care) what the actual angle is. Just use the tool to set your miter gage or blade tilt and have at it.

      It's one of those tools you don't use very often, but when you need one you need one. They are not very expensive either. Great tool for us "Geometrically Challenged" folks. [img]smile.gif[/img]
      Dick

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      • #4
        I used my bevel guage a LOT when replacing fascia on the exterior of my house.

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        • #5
          My father had several around his shop and he even gave me one when I started to buy some tools. I never knew what it was! Only slightly embarassed. Now that I know I can't wait to use it.

          By the way Dave, your ts2400 comparison with jet gets my vote for post of the year. If I'm stuck with cast iron wings, can I glue or epoxy some wood to the underside of the edge to provide a flat surface for clamping featherbds? Any advice?

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          • #6
            Thanks very much!

            For solid wings, the best suggestions I can give are:

            Use miter slot mounted featherboards when possible. They only work when the offcut is fairly thin, but then they work well.

            Use "full-table" featherboards other times. This is a board that runs the full depth of the table, from front to rear. The feather part, of course, is only on the infeed side. This allows firm clamping of the board, while still being able to have feathers near the blade.

            For clamping around the lip, I use C clamps, with the lever on the bottom. They can reach the distance it takes to get to the wing surface.

            Dave

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