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  • tablesaw wings

    I've read in other forums from woodworkers that don't own a Ridgid tablesaw that they don't like the open wings because of pinched fingers or flat work getting caught; they prefer a solid cast wing. I have also read about solid cast wings warping/twisting.

    I am curious, then, what might be the advantage(s) of having open cast wings vice solid?
    Think Highly, Feel Deeply , Speak Plainly

  • #2
    Weight and material mainly. The open wings save several pounds over the solid wings. There are several secondary reasons. One is that open wings allow easier clamping of feather boards and jigs. Second open wings can come out warped just as solid wings, but unlike solid wings a c-clamp is all it takes to bring the wings in line. Do no put too much emphasis on the wings of a table saw. 90% of the work is done on the main table rather than out on the wings.



    • #3
      A giant second to the idea of being able to clamp close to the blade. Very easy indeed to use featherboards this way, without having to spend much more for the fancy miter slot mounted ones.

      I've never quite understood how people pinch their fingers on open wings. I don't drag my hands across the saw's table when cutting, I have them on the stock.

      Not too long ago, WOOD magazine (I think?) ran an article on making your own outfeed table. They used a TS2424 for the article. They didn't come out and say so, but it was obvious that their method of attachment would be much harder on any solid winged saw.



      • #4
        There isn't any advantage to solid wings, either your wings are flat, or they are not. As long as you deburr the edges on open wings you will have no trouble. The open wings allow flexibility, and the wings support the work the same amount either way. As far as pinching your fingers, I did when sliding the fence off of my table. It is my ignorance and impatience that caused the incident, and it took a while to heal. About leveling the wings(though not part of this thread) you can use mylar or a similar idea to shim between the main table and the upper or lower half of the cast wing to position it. Jim

        [This message has been edited by Jim777 (edited 02-09-2001).]


        • #5
          Thank you Jake, Dave and Jim. I appreciate the time taken to respond. As I read other forum sites I often wish some (many?) of the responders would give explanations instead of complaints.

          Dave, if you happen to run across that article you mentioned (WOOD?), please let me know what issue. I've checked my files and don't have that one.


          Think Highly, Feel Deeply , Speak Plainly


          • #6
            WOOD, October 1999. They offer the back issue for sale at .




            • #7
              Well I like my ts2424 but have a few problems with the open slots and none involve fingers. They are nice for some things that a C clamp and a scrap can take care of but I would prefer solid tops. Working with Starboard, other plastics and laminated materials that often come with a plastic protective film on them I have caught scratched alot of work so far even after taking care to clean up the casting slots. Not such a big deal on wood but one little pressure change or the material is thin & flexible and viola scrap pile. The other thing that is a drag is the inability to truley get a nice fence upgrade beacause of the slots most all t style fence upgrades have a little plasitc pad or roller that gluides along the table top at the free end clunk clunk clunk it would go in the slots. Bies. makes an upgrade kit but it still is a 2 rail system so it is only a length gain with no way to get a nice suround styled gap free outfeed table built. I wish that I could at least change out one of them. If so an upgrade to a new fence system for a 50" rip length would be more of a snap and it would save me a few dollars on that scratched material. If anyone has some sugestions on where I can get a soild wing that will fit the 4 bolt design. Or any one that has upgraded to an exacta frence (No laminated sides to spread over time) or true bies. one sided universal kit. Please post or email me

              [This message has been edited by Marcottmarine (edited 02-21-2001).]


              • #8
                Most Biesemeyer (and clone) users take off the right wings of their saws in favor of a long composite material tableboard anyway. If I recall correctly, Biesemeyer-equipped Unisaws only come with one wing.

                I've had an Incra TSIII mounted on my TS2424 for the past year and a half or so. The Incra doesn't ride on the saw's table at all, only on it's rails.



                • #9
                  <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Marcottmarine:
                  If anyone has some sugestions on where I can get a soild wing that will fit the 4 bolt design

                  Not that I'm trying to sell Craftsman equipment, Sears does offer solid wings that bolt up with 4 bolts



                  • #10
                    Well after looking at and talking with a few local shops that carry fences, saws ect... and then walking out of their stores because they all downed my saw and told me nothing would fit please buy one of these. I called around to the manufactures of my Ridgid saw and some fence/saw makers for some set up specs. As I needed a little info other than a dumb look. After speaking with some techs at more then one company came to some conclusions...No way I'm parting any time soon with my saw. I just couldn't believe the support for the qustions that I was asking came so quickly from Ridgid not to mention most of the saws they pitched me on didn't come close for the price in even as basic a feature as leveling the thing... That and finding out from all the fence/saw makers that any of the contractors style fences will work with a little effort. I went with a Standard 50" Bies. contractor fence because it had more mounting holes then the Jet and it's fence does not have a leveling guide foot on the end of the fence like the ready made Bies. kit does or some of the other guys do... I then built some nice laminated tops out of a 5$ damaged sheet of material w/red oak suports & runners for time tested trueness and wieght :O) It's going together great and the fence went on like butter.. I just need the time to finish joining up the suround properly. But a few of my neighboring wood workers are are ewwww ahhh over it. Heres the best part of this upgrade is that with the big thick frame runners for the fence and with a few locking casters on the surounds* extentions legs it still moves around enough when I need it to in my shop using the lift sytem. I now love it so much and am so proud of how it looks & works now that I might name it and start calling it her when I refer to it :O)

                    Thanks again for the posts and sugestions Everyone. As for the Craftsman. tables, I hate giving those people my money. That and they wanted like 70$ a side + shipping for those tables as they don;t stock them in any store...

                    Mine look nicer and require less care not to mention the price savings...

                    [This message has been edited by Marcottmarine (edited 02-27-2001).]


                    • #11

                      Okay, so, to make sure I understand what you did...

                      You have mounted a Biesemeyer 50" fence and rail system on your TS2424. You constructed a right-side extension wing yourself. Is this correct?

                      Doesn't Biesemeyer make an extension table too?

                      Also, have you constructed an outfeed table?