No announcement yet.

TS-3650 Arbor Replacement

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • TS-3650 Arbor Replacement


    I hope someone can help. I just received a replacement Arbor for the TS-3650 that addresses the Dado issue. However, there are zero instructions much of an undertaking is this? I.e., what's involved?

    Many thanks!

  • #2
    If you click here it is a thread in this same category and will tell you what some others have done.

    This thread is 4 pages long and this is page three so you will find what others have done by reading all 4 pages. Lots of reading but lots of info also.

    It is impossible to make anything foolproof because fools are so ingenious.


    • #3
      Rate Member Icon 1 posted 02-18-2005 10:37 AM Profile for maineman Email maineman Send New Private Message Edit/Delete Post Reply With Quote This is just to add to the explanations by strong330 for changing arbor without dissambling nor rolling over the saw.

      Some detail will seem too obvious to some but are included for the benefit of those less mech-inclined. The change out really is less difficult than some have made it out to be.

      You work from the back of the saw.

      Remove the blade guard assemblies, including the mounting post. You have to realign this when done.

      Remove the dust shroud cover.
      Remove blade. Duh.

      Remove the belt. Tilt motor up and slip belt off pulleys.

      Cranking the carriage all the way down (lowest blade position) and cranking the bevel all the way over, gives all the room you will need.

      Remove the Arbor pulley set screw.
      Wriggle the pulley off, (it's tight) being sure to catch the small hidden keyway key piece which catches slot in end of arbor.

      Remove the retaining ring.
      My retaining ring was a snap ring (had holes for use with snap ring pliers. I bought the snap ring pliers. Got a decent Set with 2 angle pryers tips and large and small straight pryer tips for $10 at VIP autoparts.)(Or HD carries 2 single tip models. $20 for either one, both larger than you need for this job.)
      Otherwise you can twist ring off like strong330 did and replace it with a new one. Mine was only a little bent so I flattened it out with vice, needle nosed, and hammer. It does have to be right on the money flat though. You'll want/need full snap-in engagement in the arbor groove. When you get to putting on the new ring, snap ring pliers help you get it on without twisitng it. Also. So when inserting new arbor - you'll be making sure all saw dust/grease/crud is cleaned from bearing face on the arbro flange end, else that slot for the ring on the new arbor might not get fully exposed. Something I might have done real easy normally. You just don't want to have to whack the new arbor back out and reclean, just to get the cleaner fit for the ring.

      Back to Removing old arbor:
      You do not need a brass punch. I used the plasitc handle on a good Craftsman 14" screwdriver which had a wide enough flat face on one side of the handle. Started with a 1 lb. ballpeen but eventually found that lighter blows with the side of a 3 lb. hammer worked better, plenty clearance for backswing. Held the screwdriver handle in horizontally, Reached underneath with the sledge.
      "Light coaxing" I guess is a relative description.
      With the sledge and hammer handle just work your way up till it starts to move. I guess it's coaxing but it's more than "tapping".

      Apparently some had probs with the bearing coming loose so once you get the arbor moving, stop and take a look at the Bearing seated on the other end. Mine stayed put. Praise be!

      As you get arbor most of the way out you can crank the saw carriage bevel back some to give yourself more clearance at the flange end of the arbor. Nobody said Ridgid's asking for old arbors back but I didn't want to shoot and ding it - might be handy if you ever need a machine shop to copy you a 1/4" longer arbor.

      Once you crank back for clearance you can go for sledging it past the other bearing. Sledge allows for being gentler actually. You don't have to wail on it. But now the arbor end is hidden. If you have a wide enough brass punch fine, otherwise a 3" (up to 6") 5/16" bolt works okay if you wrap some masking tape around it several times to protect bearings.

      Finally just crank the bevel all the way back up square, drop some 3-in-One on the new arbor and have at it again with the sledge. Load snap ring onto pliers, squeeze and she'll slide right over the end of new arbor, and down into the arbor ring slot.

      Now follow OEM manual procedure for setting up motor and belt. Don't just slap the belt on there and go 'cause your arbor pulley position may be different now.

      When running smooth do the blade, dust shroud and blade guard mounting.


      • #4
        Just wanted to add something.

        When you try putting the arbor pulley back onto the new arbor you might find that tricky to do.

        You have that keyway key to get in there.

        My key had a burr on the end where the set screw had spread it a little at the factory.

        Taking off that burr with a file helped the pulley to slide onto the new arbor more easily.