Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

R4512 Table Saw comments and questions

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • R4512 Table Saw comments and questions

    I've had the R4512 for several months, and am pleased, overall.

    First my question: If anyone else is hooking it up to a shop vac, what 4" reducer (to 2 1/2 ) are you using? The inside diameter of the port on the machine is about 3 3/4" -- looking on amazon and rockler, I've only found reducers with the large end measuring the same outside diameter as the port - grr. Do you have to stick a small length of 4" hose on the thing and then use a reducer from there? Help....... can't...... breath..... dust nibs ....... everywhere.......

    It was comparable to the Porter Cable TS but has metal gears for the blade height/tilt rather than the plastic gears of the PC. The PC has a 15 amp induction motor vs the Ridgid 13 amp, but with the 0.100in kerf blade that comes with the Ridgid, this is plenty of power for my purposes as I work mainly in Cherry, walnut, and other similarly dense materials. I don't plan on trying to plow through 12/4 hard maple, but it might work just fine there too, I don't know. As you go to buy an aftermarket blade, you may wish to know this bit of information though -- The blade that came with my saw measured at 0.100, and the Woodworker II form Forest (0.100) works just fine with the riving knife.

    I do wish it had cast iron wings. For 1 or 2 hundred more, there is a steel city model that has cast wings. However, the steel wings were flat to within 0.005, and, using a digital height gauge and good straight edge, was able to get it perfectly flush with the cast iron table. You'll want to get this done right the first time, because tinkering with the wings requires loosening the 3 bolts between the wing and the cast iron table, as well as 2 (or 3, can't remember at the moment) on each side between the wing and the front and back fence rails. All in all, I am satisfied, if not elated with the steel wings. After careful adjustment, I do not feel they will cause problems with accuracy or repeatability. As they have multiple bolts on 3 sides, they do not seem to flex under normal use.

    An annoying problem however is that when the wings are adjusted perfectly flush and level with the cast iron top, the fence height must be adjusted upwards to clear the wings. My rails have been installed within 0.002 of parallel of the entire table saw top - so they aren't slanted one way or the other such that at the right wing edge the fence won't clear. I made sure that wasn't the case. So, with level rails, which are attached to the top and wings in approximately the middle of their bolt holes (rather than crammed into the top of their bolt holes, as someone might be suspecting), the fence still has to be adjuted upward to clear the wings, and top for that matter. This wouldn't be a problem except that in doing so it raises the fence's whole front assembly proud of the table top. You can see where this is going. Now, at the start of a cut, any board or sheet that is longer than say 1.5 ft sits partly on the proud bit of the front fence slide assembly and partly on the table top. As you feed the board through the saw, there is then about a 1/8 inch drop for the board when it clears the front fence slide assembly. This invariably causes a small irregularity in the cut, though, in stock <1/2 inch thick, it is not noticeable. In everything else, it forces more plane work than I'd like. Soon, this will not be a problem, as I'm installing an entirely different rail and fence system. But for anyone who doesn't wish to replace the fence/rails with an aftermarket solution, you should be aware of this. I can imagine 4 possibilities regarding this problem: 1) I could be wrong and the rails can be adjusted further downward while adjusting the fence slide assebly upward such that the fence clears the table/wings but the fence slide assembly is NOT proud of the table top -- I don't see how this could be possible (since the top of the fence front slide assembly moves upward with any upward adjustment of the fence) but I won't rule it out. 2) Other people who do not have this problem do not have their wings or rails perfectly adjusted., 3) everyone has this problem and few mention it or care, or 4) I got a lemon.

    My fence did not seem to be damaged, but, on the left side of the fence, the half of the fence below the t-slot was in a different vertical plane than the upper half. The top of the fence was thus about 1/16 inch further rightward than the plane of the lower half of the fence. This - not good. I've seen the pictures of the packing problem for these saws that could lead to this problem. I should probably ask ridgid for a new fence, and see. I might even though I'm replacing the fence anyway. Message: check your fence carefully with an accurate square. Yes, the fence can be adjusted, but not for malalignment of the upper and lower portions of the fence itself.

    The right miter slot crept about 0.002 further away from the other one by the end of the slots. This is pretty good.

    Adjusting the Riving knife to perfect alignment with the blade is a bit of a pain. It can be done, but it takes patience. This is probably true of all saws.

    The miter gauge isn't bad.

    The blade was aligned to the miter slots out of the box. Ha!

    That's it -- I got it for 450+tax, and am satisfied.

    v/r
    Dr Y

  • #2
    Re: R4512 Table Saw comments and questions

    Dr Y.,
    Yes, I put on a small section of hose before a reducer.

    They (saw manuf.) figure that you are going to hook it up to a standard 4" dust collection system (hose or pipe), so therefore the fitting on the saw is sized so the hose/pipe slips over top of it and is anchored by hose clamp. I have a local Rockler store and they have a short section (12") of 4" hose for exactly this purpose. Then attach your shop-vac reducer to the 4" hose and you are in business! If you don't have hose locally, the short section of 4" hose is item # 26660 on Rockler.com. Which reducer you use after that depends upon the size of your shop-vac hose/fittings.

    Using flexible hose under this saw is nice as you may have noticed it's a little crowded under there with the herc-u-lift gear taking up a bit of space!

    I did the same thing to my Ridgid 6" jointer, too, so I just swap the vac hose back and forth.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: R4512 Table Saw comments and questions

      Originally posted by wyavelak View Post
      I've had the R4512 for several months, and am pleased, overall.


      I do wish it had cast iron wings. For 1 or 2 hundred more, there is a steel city model that has cast wings. However, the steel wings were flat to within 0.005, and, using a digital height gauge and good straight edge, was able to get it perfectly flush with the cast iron table. You'll want to get this done right the first time, because tinkering with the wings requires loosening the 3 bolts between the wing and the cast iron table, as well as 2 (or 3, can't remember at the moment) on each side between the wing and the front and back fence rails. All in all, I am satisfied, if not elated with the steel wings. After careful adjustment, I do not feel they will cause problems with accuracy or repeatability. As they have multiple bolts on 3 sides, they do not seem to flex under normal use.

      An annoying problem however is that when the wings are adjusted perfectly flush and level with the cast iron top, the fence height must be adjusted upwards to clear the wings. My rails have been installed within 0.002 of parallel of the entire table saw top - so they aren't slanted one way or the other such that at the right wing edge the fence won't clear. I made sure that wasn't the case. So, with level rails, which are attached to the top and wings in approximately the middle of their bolt holes (rather than crammed into the top of their bolt holes, as someone might be suspecting), the fence still has to be adjuted upward to clear the wings, and top for that matter. This wouldn't be a problem except that in doing so it raises the fence's whole front assembly proud of the table top. You can see where this is going. Now, at the start of a cut, any board or sheet that is longer than say 1.5 ft sits partly on the proud bit of the front fence slide assembly and partly on the table top. As you feed the board through the saw, there is then about a 1/8 inch drop for the board when it clears the front fence slide assembly. This invariably causes a small irregularity in the cut, though, in stock <1/2 inch thick, it is not noticeable. In everything else, it forces more plane work than I'd like. Soon, this will not be a problem, as I'm installing an entirely different rail and fence system. But for anyone who doesn't wish to replace the fence/rails with an aftermarket solution, you should be aware of this. I can imagine 4 possibilities regarding this problem: 1) I could be wrong and the rails can be adjusted further downward while adjusting the fence slide assebly upward such that the fence clears the table/wings but the fence slide assembly is NOT proud of the table top -- I don't see how this could be possible (since the top of the fence front slide assembly moves upward with any upward adjustment of the fence) but I won't rule it out. 2) Other people who do not have this problem do not have their wings or rails perfectly adjusted., 3) everyone has this problem and few mention it or care, or 4) I got a lemon.

      My fence did not seem to be damaged, but, on the left side of the fence, the half of the fence below the t-slot was in a different vertical plane than the upper half. The top of the fence was thus about 1/16 inch further rightward than the plane of the lower half of the fence. This - not good. I've seen the pictures of the packing problem for these saws that could lead to this problem. I should probably ask ridgid for a new fence, and see. I might even though I'm replacing the fence anyway. Message: check your fence carefully with an accurate square. Yes, the fence can be adjusted, but not for malalignment of the upper and lower portions of the fence itself.



      That's it -- I got it for 450+tax, and am satisfied.

      v/r
      Dr Y
      Problem solved!.



      Your fence has 2 plastic screws on the top of the T near the gauges, use those to adjust the fence square to the table.
      Also, lower your front rail, and lower your steel wings, the biggest reason I have the CI exts is I would not put up with those issues, and I didn't want to live with the "drop off" from the CI to the steel.

      And yes, it'll cut 12/4 Maple.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: R4512 Table Saw comments and questions

        I found the same thing with regards to a 4"-2" reducer. My fix was to get a 4" S&D 90 degree elbow, which fits the dust chute on the 4512, put a 4-2 reducer which fits nicely inside and added some aluminum duct tape. That puts the the connection point right at the edge of the saw with no need to crawl clear under.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: R4512 Table Saw comments and questions

          Is the picture of a 4512? If so where did you get the cast iron wings?

          Second question. Does the Diablo D1060x blade width work with the knife?

          Thanks.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: R4512 Table Saw comments and questions

            Originally posted by EMD View Post
            Is the picture of a 4512? If so where did you get the cast iron wings?

            Second question. Does the Diablo D1060x blade width work with the knife?

            Thanks.
            Those wings look to be from a TS3650.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: R4512 Table Saw comments and questions

              Originally posted by hewood View Post
              Those wings look to be from a TS3650.
              as does the fence system. if i remember correctly, the poster of that pic has a thread here that recounts his dissatisfaction with the OEM fence system and stamped steel wings of the 4512, and his subsequent acquisition of the pictured parts from ridgid. and here is the thread i was referring to:

              http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t36151/
              Last edited by FINER9998; 05-25-2011, 08:32 AM.
              there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: R4512 Table Saw comments and questions

                Originally posted by FINER9998 View Post
                as does the fence system. if i remember correctly, the poster of that pic has a thread here that recounts his dissatisfaction with the OEM fence system and stamped steel wings of the 4512, and his subsequent acquisition of the pictured parts from ridgid. and here is the thread i was referring to:

                http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t36151/
                FINER9998 Thanks for the link, that explains the difference. It sounds like a pretty easy conversion with a lot of benefit. Now I just have to check out the cost

                Comment

                Working...
                X