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  • butcher block

    I am installing a dishwasher and mounting it in a custom built cabinet due to kitchen lay out. my plan is to use mahogany for the top and use it as a butcher block. my question is is this the best wood for this use? and what do i use to seal and protect it that is food safe?

    ed
    \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

  • #2
    Mahogany is rather soft, and open-pored. Hard and closed-pored would be a better choice in my opinion, like hard Maple.

    Dave

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    • #3
      Mineral oil makes a good, food-safe sealer.

      Michael

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      • #4
        maple it is. for some reason mahogany was stuck in my head for butcher blocks but maple is the correct choice thanks. as far as the mineral oil, any specific type? i planned to use elmers carpenters glue and biscuits for the top, need something that will not affect the glue, seal the wood, and be food safe. sorry for teh elementary question, this is probably something i should know but is my 1st time building something that i need food safe

        ed
        \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

        Comment


        • #5
          I use the salad bowl finish from woodcraft,it's a lot tougher than mineral oil. Shellac is also food safe and natural! They even use it on some medicine(pills),and candy like chocolate to give it a shiny coat.But if you're going to use the board a lot, it's not very water resistant.I used the mineral oil one time,and then I read an article about vegetable and mineral oils trapping bacteria on the wood,so I won't ever do that again.Not even for a customer.Bottom line:spend the couple extra bucks for salad bowl finish!!!

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          • #6
            I've always used mineral oil as has many a cutting board manufacturer without any problems. I have seen a rash of articles about other finishes being better and safer, but the fact is they're usually not very accurate...in fact one article recently in either Wood or Popular Woodworking completely debunked all those "new" claims about wood cutting boards. They compared the bacteria count on plastic boards and wood and the wood came up cleaner...it had been finished with mineral oil.
            Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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            • #7
              I have to disagree regarding use of shellac on a cutting board, or any kitchen countertop, I feel that's a poor choice. Not only does it have poor resistance to liquid water, but both strong bases and acids will damage it quickly. Little grape juice, little tomato, little Mr. Clean, the shellac is gone.

              Any article that mentions mineral oil and vegetable oils in the same sentence for cutting board finishes is suspicious in my opinion. Mineral oil is a standard "finish" for cutting boards. It's available at the pharmacy or supermarket, in the laxatives section. It is a non-drying oil, put some on, wipe off excess.

              Dave

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              • #8
                The good news is, given enough time, you should be able to get plenty of opinions, wood cutting boards have been around for ever and there is plenty of experience out there. I used the salad bowl finish on some small toy parts (animals for a Noah's ark) simply out of concern they might find there way into one of my children's mouth. It did seem real thin though, and given a knife to it, I am not sure how well it would hold up over time. Mineral oil, I believe, would penetrate better and could be easily re-applied over time.

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                • #9
                  I would also use Titebond II for gluing. It's better against moisture. I'm not sure about the Elmers Carpenters glue.

                  Michael

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