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2424 fence alignment

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  • 2424 fence alignment

    I have been tuning up my TS again with a dial indicator. I have the blade parallel to the left miter slot(within .001) and I set the fence to go out about .003 on the back(this is done when the fence is within about 4 inches from the blade to the right). Works perfect BUT....... when I move the blade out to say a 20" rip the fence is so open to the back that the dial indicator loses contact with the fence. It has got to be at least an 1/8". Does shimming the rails help this? What do i do to correct? I am getting ready to build an extention and will try to incorporate adjustment in need be. Thanks for your help guys/gals.
    Justin

  • #2
    What I did with my TS2412 was get the fence parallel to the miter slots and set the blade slightly (about 1/64~1/128") to the left in the back. I have had good success with this arrangement.
    John
    Eastchester, NY
    "He who is not just a little bit scared of his power tools, we call stubby"

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    • #3
      jdeardor

      I have the same problem, but not quite as severe. When I posted, Jake responded and has dealt with the problem very efficently. I expect a new wing to arrive shortly.

      To check your set-up, put a straight edge along the front of the table and check your wings, they should be straight and flush the entire length. The brass washer shims you received with your saw can correct for minor problems, but if it is severe, contact Jake.

      hth,
      Rick
      <a href=\"http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx\" target=\"_blank\">http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx</a>

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      • #4
        Okay, went home and checked the front edge of the saw with a straight edge and it does have a small gap, but nothing that would cause my fence to be off by an 1/8". Jake do you have any suggestions?
        Thanks for all your help guys.
        Justin

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        • #5
          Remember, a little off by shimming can be magnified a lot depending how far away you measure the fence away from the front or rear edges. I would suggest you fix the shimming first according to the manual and then remeasure the distances to the fence.

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          • #6
            Finally got my side/router table finished and turned my 2424 into a 36.5/12. I am extreamly happy I did this. I do have one question. After shimming(even with full size washer) I think I have the fence as close as I'll get to parallel. However If I push in on the head of it beofre I lock it(like your supposed to) it goes WAY out of parallel. If I just slide it to where I need it and lock it down it is close to parallel. Is this a problem? Is there any way to make the fence "tighter" on the rails like the TS3612?

            I still can't say enough good thigs about this saw.
            Justin

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            • #7
              Have you adjusted the nut at the end of the fence to tighten the grip of the cam lock?
              Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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              • #8
                I've noticed the same situation with the fence alignment on my TS2424. As long as you're close to the miter slot the fence appears to be perfectly aligned but once you get out towards the end of the right extension the fence is WAY out of alignment. This problem has perplexed me to the point of considering a Biesmeyer replacement fence. I'd rather not spend the extra money but I'd like to be able to make square cuts.

                To the best of my knowledge I initially set the fence up as directed in the owner's manual. I have since readjusted the fence since it was no longer square. What gives?

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                • #9
                  Kelly,
                  Yes I have adjusted the nut. I actually loosened it so that it doesn't "flex" my back rail due to the shimming. I am really lost on this one.

                  All,
                  Has anyone else used a dial indicator to alighn your fence? If so did you notice it being out of square the further away from the blade you got?
                  Justin

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