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  • Table Saw Power

    I just bought a used TS2424 and have just finished my first job with it.I have had a tablesaw before but they have all had universal motors. I had been led to believe that the 1.5 HP induction motor would be more powerful even though they both use 15 amps. I was ripping some 1.5 inch treated lumber at about the same speed that I would go with a handheld saw and the saw seemed to labor a great deal. I stopped and put on a new combination blade and the rate of cut was less than I felt it should be. I built an entire deck with a Craftsman benchtop and seldom had any concern with its power. I usually said a small prayer concerning accuracy but that is another post. Am I doing somethin wrong? I am using a thin Kerf carbide blade and I have it in the middle of my shop so I have had to use a 10 foot H.D. extension cord in order to plug it in the ceiling.Any advice would be appreciated.

  • #2
    I have used the 2424 for 2 years now. Ripping Treated of all sizes and kind for work on the side. I'm here to tell you, there is nother more unpredictable, or more scary, or more safety minded than cutting treated wood. It's moister content varies dramatically. It's reaction to cutting is volital. I never makes a difference really what blade you use, as long as it's sharp. Ripping, use a 24T. Plywood, 32 or 40 tooth.

    It moves, pinches, binds, spreads. I would not say it's the blade, saw, or motor. It's just the wood it's self reacting to the cut.

    I have no knowledge of the wood your cutting, but in general, that would be my first reaction. Treated wood of all kinds is the worst cut of the tree you can possably get. That's why they treat it and use it as construction grade.

    Try cutting some decent wood after aligning the trunion and fence. Use the appropiate blade, and then report back.

    As a side note, remove the wire connection cover plate to the motor, and check the connections. I ran my briefly on 110 before permanently connecting it to 220. One wire was not connected properly. It only takes one.
    John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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    • #3
      messmaker,
      I've never cut treated boards on my table saw, but that might be a problems, as mentioned by Woody. You saw should be able to handle that size board. Is there a problem with other non-treated boards? Alignment could also be a problem.
      You might also want to check and make sure the drive belt is properly tensioned.

      I don't know about your wiring/amp situtation but I once had a 2424 and it bogged down cutting either 6/4" or 8/4" white oak. The problem was running it off a 20 amp outlet that had a garage refrigator and dust collector running of the same outlet. I had two dedicated 20 amp outlets installed and it solved the problem. I tried to find an electrian to wire it for 220v but had no luck, and I didn't feel compondent to do it myself.

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      • #4
        messmaker----I have an older Craftsman version of your saw, with a 1 hp motor. I just finished re-sawing staves from a wine vat----9/4 white oak, and with a steady, slow feed speed had no major troubles.

        Totally agree with Woody as to PT lumber----and to build on Glh and he said---

        ---are you using a spliter?
        ---carefully check saw and fence alignment
        ---as Woody said, 24 t rip blade----personally I don't like thin kerfs---and it's entirely too easy for the wood to close up, binding the blade.
        ---also, be sure to put down a couple coats of paste wax, not only for ease of sliding, but to protect your top from the high moisture content in the wood----dust mask highly recommended.

        Try these out and let us know.
        Dave

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        • #5
          extension cords- even H.D. ones dont let a tool get its maximum amount of power. Try pluggin it into a wall outlet, and see if there is any difference.

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          • #6
            The first thing I'd check is fence alignment. If it's off by even a 16th of an inch, you'll find it harder to cut.

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            • #7
              My buddy has the same saw and totally underpowered. His stalls frequently when ripping. I suggested that he rewire it to 220 and get a sharp thin kerf blade. I wonder how practical it would be to replace the motor with something beefier?

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              • #8
                As mentioned, I'd first check the tension on the belt(should be about a 1/2" deflection-no more), check to see if the pullies are aligned, and go real slow with feed rate, especially if wood is damp.

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