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tung oil or teak?

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  • tung oil or teak?

    i need to know what is better, tung oil or teak oil. i have heard that tung oil is better but with no explanation. which is more versatile?

  • #2
    I have not seen tung oil and teak oil compared. But basicly tung oil is known for penetrating and drying in a reasonable time, giving the wood's grain deepth. It can also be mixed with poly. Tung is safe to use around food. It is getting hard to find pure tung oil, most is modified.
    Teak is mostly used for exterior due to it's protection in the outdoors. Unless I was using it outside or using it on teak wood I would go with the tung oil.
    But to see which suited your taste try a sample of both on one board.
    Steve

    [ 07-15-2004, 10:42 AM: Message edited by: SCWood ]

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    • #3
      Steve, you can get pure unmodified Tung oil at Lee Valley, gaurenteed food safe
      100 pure tung oil

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      • #4
        I've used tung oil with varnish---it's a great interrior finish. I've never heard of teak oil being used on anything but teak. It's not designed as a "perminent" finish, but is meant to be an annual or semi-annual coating, used after you clean your teak with a caustic cleaner. Having had a boat with some teak on it---teak oil is the only way to go--compared to using spar varnish, which is a major pain to refinish.

        There is constant arguements about food-safe finishes. Depending on the use, the only substance people are in total agreement about is mineral oil.
        Dave

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        • #5
          What are you trying to accomplish? What kind of wood are you using?

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          • #6
            i have a door(interior) that was givin to me and i want to try something different as far as finishing. i have stained and varnished doors but i have never used tung oil or teak. i would still refer to myself as a novice so i cannot identify the wood.
            thanx for the replies.

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            • #7
              Try this preferred formula of contributing editor of CHW magazine Don Kondra - copied from his post on the CHW site ... CHW Forum

              I have not tried it yet but plan to on my next project

              25% pure tung oil, 25% spar (exterior) varnish, 50% paint thinner. 4 - 6 drops of Japan drier/cup of mix.

              Only mix as much as you expect to use in three days, it will harden even in a tightly closed glass container. The Japan drier is a catalyst to ensure two dissimilar products will dry..

              25% pure tung oil, 25% spar (exterior) varnish, 50% paint thinner. 4 - 6 drops of Japan drier/cup of mix.

              This is a combination of pure tung oil to enhance the grain and spar varnish for the durability. The added bonus of this finish is it goes on like an oil, that is you wipe it on and off with the same rag. No drips or brush marks, quick to apply and it dries dust free in twenty minutes or so. That's not much time for dust to land on the project if you don't have a dedicated finish area. And it takes up to a week to fully harden so sanding between coats is simply a matter of a quick rub with scotchbrite pads.

              I usually apply four coats to legs, aprons, etc and at least six on table tops. The coats go on fairly thin so I quit when it looks and feels "right". I normally apply one coat in the morning and another at the end of the day.

              When I feel I am done I leave it dry for two days and give it a light sanding with 600 grit. Then I take a rag slightly dampened with paint thinner and quickly wipe with the grain. This will "melt" any sanding scratches.

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              • #8
                Have you looked at Watco oil? It goes on and wipes off leaving an oiled finish that hardens (polimerizes) and can be left alone (satin) or buffed for a shine (gloss).

                They make several tints, I preferr natural, and it keeps well in storage.

                It is also food grade if applied properly.

                If you do go the tung oil route, it goes on best at 125 degress. Also it is a good idea to have your work peice slightly warm (above 70 F). Application outdoors around noon is a good idea.

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                • #9
                  Wbrooks' formula certainly looks interesting and worth a try. For an interrior door, you're much more open for options. Again, forget teak oil----it's specialty product for teak wood (exterrior or boats). If the door is a hardwood, be sure to catch all the edges or places the finish can pool or accumulate.
                  Dave

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                  • #10
                    hey, thanks again for the great info.

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                    • #11
                      Staad,

                      How did the project come out?

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