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  • TS3650 setup

    My thanks to everyone in this forum for the great tips on setting the saw up. It made things a lot easier. But I still have some questions....

    1. Are the pivot bolts that Andrew suggests replacing the four bolts that connect the lift to the legs? Mine are only threaded half way up the bolt which some folks here said their bolts were not.

    2. How do I calibrate the rip fence measuring system? I set the fence for 2 inches and measure the distance from fence to blade and it is about 1/8" off. Or should I continue reading the manual?

    3. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good combination blade and a dado set for this saw?

    Thanks again for all the tips. Hope to make some sawdust this weekend.....

  • #2
    1. My bolts are the same as your and work fine.
    2. Read the manual their is a whole procedure to go through on the blade and fence.
    3. Blades are a matter of price and choice.

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    • #3
      It's very important that you understand all the workings of your table saw. Carefully following the step by step setup instructions in your owners manual will allow you to do this. Ridgid's manual is very well written and easy to understand. To ensure that the saw is setup to run as safely as possible read and reread the owners manual as many times as it takes to know your saw inside and out.
      I decided to change calling the bathroom the "John" and renamed it the "Jim". I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.

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      • #4
        The replacement bolts act as guiding pins so with the longer bolts with the unthreaded part thru the hole that the bolt slides thru can be on a smooth surface. (as shown in the manual but they supplied a fully threaded one?) The treaded part begins to wear down as the base is locked and unlocked. I have a very smooth action now and no binding as before for little cost and effort.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by rjherald:
          My thanks to everyone in this forum for the great tips on setting the saw up. It made things a lot easier. But I still have some questions....

          1. Are the pivot bolts that Andrew suggests replacing the four bolts that connect the lift to the legs? Mine are only threaded half way up the bolt which some folks here said their bolts were not.

          2. How do I calibrate the rip fence measuring system? I set the fence for 2 inches and measure the distance from fence to blade and it is about 1/8" off. Or should I continue reading the manual?

          3. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good combination blade and a dado set for this saw?

          Thanks again for all the tips. Hope to make some sawdust this weekend.....

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by rjherald:
            My thanks to everyone in this forum for the great tips on setting the saw up. It made things a lot easier. But I still have some questions....

            1. Are the pivot bolts that Andrew suggests replacing the four bolts that connect the lift to the legs? Mine are only threaded half way up the bolt which some folks here said their bolts were not.

            2. How do I calibrate the rip fence measuring system? I set the fence for 2 inches and measure the distance from fence to blade and it is about 1/8" off. Or should I continue reading the manual?

            3. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good combination blade and a dado set for this saw?

            Thanks again for all the tips. Hope to make some sawdust this weekend.....
            I have two suggestions. First of all, make sure you have the right adjustable leg settings. I had to do this adjusting process several times before I got it right. You should set the feet at the lowest stable setting that still gives you safe floor clearance when on the casters. This changes the leverage points of the Herculift and how well it works.

            Secondly, don't worry about the fence alignment if you are considering a blade change because the new blade will change everything. The stock Ridgid blade is extremely thin and the new one will be thicker and closer to the fence. Get your blade first, then adjust. As for the adjustment, align the fence scale to the right edge of the table as described in the manual and then adjust the right and left pointers to zero with the fence gently against either side of the blade. Hint: Make sure the fence BARELY touches the blade teeth during the adjustment. A common mistake is to set the fence firmly against the blade which flexes it slightly.

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            • #7
              The Freud LU84 50T is an excellent value in combination blades @ ~ $55. The Forrest WWII 40T is the best blade I've used, but costs more like $95.

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              • #8
                Speaking of Freud, check out the Freud SD608 dado. It's a true stacked dado but with a fine adjustment dial instead of shims. That makes it adjustable in .004" increments without disassembling. Trouble is you're gonna have to steal $210 from your wife's purse to buy it [img]smile.gif[/img] .

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                • #9
                  After doing a search to jog my memory, the SD608 requires a 1 1/2" arbor. The 3650 arbor is 1 1/8". The SD608 wont work on the 3650.
                  Lorax
                  "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06

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