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  • #16
    I have an older craftsman saw that the 10" blade wouldn't go below the table top. What I did was take one of my 7 1/2" skil saw blades, put it on the saw and it would lower below the table top. Started my cut with that then switched to the 10" after I had raised the 7 1/2" as high as it would go. At all times I had the rip fence over the insert holding it down. I believe this is much safer. BTW no way am I going to try to lower a piece of wood no larger than an insert into a spinning blade.

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    • #17
      I don't have the saw (yet), but the downloadable manual for the TS3612 provides a procedure for partially inserting a blank zero clearance insert over a fully lowered blade, raising the blade to cut partially into it, turning off (and unplugging)the saw, fully inserting the insert, and completing the cut. Sounds a bit iffy, tho - seems like the router method is safer.
      Tony<br /><a href=\"http://www.mindling.com/passages\" target=\"_blank\">www.mindling.com/passages</a>

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      • #18
        MLCSWOODWORKING.Com has zero clearance plates for
        $13.50 with free shipping. Just thought someone out there in ridgid land would want to know.
        Reggie (Grainraiser)
        Reggie

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        • #19
          [QUOTE]Originally posted by woodguy1000:
          [QB]I've done the same thing you guys did. I took the throat plate and used it as a template on my router table to cut the inserts.

          Did the same, except I used paper posts that just happen to take 8-32 set screws countersunk and RTV to the bottom with a through hole for the allen wrench. gluing them with RTV I can reuse them when I make a new insert.
          Dave

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