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  • Home Made Zero Clearence Insert

    I Think I've come up with a way to make a zero clearence insert for the TS-2424. I used the insert that comes with the saw and cut a peice to wood about 2 1/8" X 11 1/4" the wood was about 5/16" thick. I lad the wood on tyhe underside of the insert and held it firm the traced the opening. I cut away all the excess with the blade set at the thickness of the insert. Using a file it rounded the end so it fit snug. I help the wood in place with carpet tape then. Placed the rearend of the insert in and holding the forward end above the blade, I started the saw and lowered the insert in to place. Once it was all the way down I stoped the saw. Move the fence over the insert to hold it down started the saw and razed the blace al the up. It seames to work good. Best of all it cost be nothing since I used scrap wood.
    I did buy a zero clearence insert for a woodworking suppy house. But I did'nt like the way it flexed over the blade. The one I made does not. If you have any questions about this Email me At. danomal@home.com I may be able to scan the insert and eamil that to you. Just an Tip that works for me. [img]smile.gif[/img]
    Dan<br /> <a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/pepaw101\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/pepaw101</a>

  • #2
    I did pretty much the same thing, except:

    I drilled four small holes through the top of the Ridgid insert, and then counter-sunk the top of the holes. I used small counter-sunk machine screws to hold the wood insert (be careful of the placement so as not to interfere with the workings under the insert). The screws were countersunk into the top so my work slides right over them.

    I bolted on a piece of 1/4" hardboard underneath the Ridgid insert, but then I trimmed a piece of 1/8” hardboard to fit the insert slot, which I glued into place.

    The rest of the process is the same as yours. I made several inserts for both my cutting insert and dato insert this way.
    Greg

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    • #3
      I've done the same thing you guys did. I took the throat plate and used it as a template on my router table to cut the inserts. Works great. I have about 10 inserts on the wall ready to use. I used masking tape to fine adjust the insert level with the table top.

      Good Luck,

      John


      Like you said, "Best of all it cost nothing."

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi,

        I'm a newbi, so what is a zero clearance insert used for?

        Best regards,

        Henry

        Comment


        • #5
          Its an insert that has an opening only as wide was the kerf of the blade. If help with dust collection an if you cutting thin strips there is less chance of the wood being pulled inbetween the blade and insert you would normaly have. They are very useful and farly easy to make. When you make or buy one its solid, you lower you saw blade ti it lowest point put the insert in place, Move your rip fence over the insert(to keep in in place)being sure not to move it so far that the blade will hit it, then start the saw and slowly start turning the hight adjustmant wheel up untill the blade is at it's hightest point. With a Ridgid TS2424 you have to hold the insert above the blade start the saw lower the insert on to the blade untill in insert is flush with the table then stop the saw move the rip fence over and finish turning the blace up. If you've never used one then do it like you have a new saw. Hope this helps.
          Dan<br /> <a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/pepaw101\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/pepaw101</a>

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          • #6
            How do you safely lower the insert down over the spinning blade? What is there about the TS2424 that makes this necessary? It would appear that the technique of holding it in place with the rip fence would be the safest. As I am getting ready to purchase a dado blade for my saw, I would be interested in the best safe way to create a zero clearance insert. Thanks.

            Comment


            • #7
              The problem with the Ridgid TS2412 and TS2412 is that the 10” blade will not lower below the table enough to allow you to insert a blank insert without the slot. Some users, as mentioned, will gently and carefully lower their new blank insert on to the spinning blade. I’m with you- this sounds scary.

              What I did is to put a smaller blade on the saw (maybe the one off of your circular saw, if it fits the arbor). With a smaller diameter blade lowered all the way, a blank insert will now lay flat. You tighten the insert screw, turn on the saw, and then slowly raise the blade into the blank insert. Once a slot is cut, put your 10” blade back on.

              If you’re worried about a zero-clearance on a dato set, you don’t need to be. I think the largest dato set is 8”, and when lowered to the lowest point you should have plenty of room to put your new zero clearance blank onto the saw.

              Side note- While a zero-clearence insert will give you cleaner cuts, it will make the saw noisier.
              Greg

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              • #8
                Thanks Greg. The thought of having my hands anywhere near a spinning blade was too much. I will try the smaller blade trick when I make one. It is a good safe suggestion. As far as the noise, I always wear over the ear hearing protectors, so it won't matter much. [img]smile.gif[/img]

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                • #9
                  Thanks to ALL on making a ZERO clearance insert.. I have been looking for a"store bought" but no one list it for TS2412. Now I can make some for my TS2412 as there is a NEED at times,, Thanks AGAIN dd

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                  • #10
                    I've changed the way I make my zero clearence insert. I use 3/4" stock. It work out well. and I've even found a way to cut the slot with otu having ti hold the insert and lower it on to the blade. It works great anf there is on flex in the insert. It takes some time. You should have a good sander like the Ridgid EB4424 and a router. Liek to know how it done? Send me a Email. I let you know. [img]smile.gif[/img] [img]smile.gif[/img]
                    Dan<br /> <a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/pepaw101\" target=\"_blank\">http://community.webshots.com/user/pepaw101</a>

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I didn't see this post before I posted my similiar solution just a moment ago. I've posted a link to a web site that shows a simple template for quick creation of these wood inserts. I've got an idea for a much better and very, very quick template that'll do the operation in one pass. Gonna work on that idea today. If successfull, I'll post another page on making the template.
                      I guess all of us Ridgid tablesaw owners are fed up with trying to locate a zero clearance insert.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        [QUOTE]Originally posted by gr8tgreg:
                        [QB]The problem with the Ridgid TS2412 and TS2412 is that the 10” blade will not lower below the table enough to allow you to insert a blank insert without the slot. Some users, as mentioned, will gently and carefully lower their new blank insert on to the spinning blade. I’m with you- this sounds scary.

                        I've posted a method for making a wood "plug" insert for the original steel insert. After completing the insert, it can be easily routed on a router table so the original metal insert can be lowered all the way down with the retaining screw and spring clip holding the animal in place.

                        Don't need to route the entire length. Just a stopped dado located where the blade will hit. Doesn't need to go all the way through. I located the position of the dado by lowering the installed wood insert down onto the 10" blade when it was lowered as far as it would go. Then routed a 1/4 inch dado at this point for about 2 or 3 inches.

                        I am certain that someone will injure themselves by lowering a loose insert down onto a running blade. Only a matter of time. I intend NOT to be the one who will suffer the first injury. That's why I designed by insert in the manner I did. Works pretty well.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have noticed on several occasions that someone has posted that they cannot find a zero clearance throat insert to fit the TS2424. Well I have a great one and I bought it from Lee Valley Tools. I have the catalogue in front of me and they list 4 different sizes. The one you want is the last one on the list 46J85.04 Craftsman (3 3/4" x 14") it's just about $20 I think (I am using the Canadian catalogue it's in Canadian $ at 32.50) It's extremely well made and the underside is partially cut through allowing for the fact that the TS2424 blade does'nt go 1/2" below surface, thus avoiding lowering onto the blade etc.

                          Try LeeValley.com

                          Cheers Ivor Calgary

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                          • #14
                            Another way to start the cut in the ZCTP is to use a small "V" groove cutter in the router table and make a plunge cut into the underside of the plate. I set it for half way. This gives me plenty of room to raise the blade.
                            I tried the 7 1/4" blade method, but the blade is just too thin for my Systematic blades.
                            Support Our Troops!
                            www.mnpatriotguard.org
                            www.patriotguard.org

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                            • #15
                              There's a good article on making zero clearance inserts in American Woodworker, September (jees, where did the summer go) 2002. They are made by laminating plastic laminate with tempered hardboard, and look pretty nifty. Cost for materials is said to be about $5 each.
                              Tony<br /><a href=\"http://www.mindling.com/passages\" target=\"_blank\">www.mindling.com/passages</a>

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