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  • Throat plate flex on 3650

    I had cut up a couple of 4x8 sheets of mdf for base and crown moulding and saw the orange wearing off the center of the plate.(having some of that HD orange may be a good thing) If I fully tighten the holding screw it causes the plate to be pinched to the rear and flex above the table. Is this normal? My old sears saw plate just snapped in, much better in my opinion. I had to enlarge the screw opening to get the plate out inorder to remove the plate without fully removing the screw. I have no experience with Rigdig plates.

  • #2
    Take the plate out and check it's flatness with a straight edge----if it's bowed---either take the plate back or IMHO, take the saw back.

    If it's not bowed, you might watch how you're mounting it or if the lip or other obstructions are causing the bow.

    I've had the Emerson-built Craftsman (essentially the same basic saw as the 3612) for 15 years----on two occassions only did I ever notice any paint transfering. The inserts have been flat and stable.
    Dave

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    • #3
      Dave, QUIT your 3650 bashing- you don't own one and don't provide your criticism in a constructive manner, so quit whining about it like a baby.

      Andrew, it's too bad the plate flexes, but if you think about the design with the adjustable height hex screws, the tab at the back of the plate, and the set screw at the front, it makes sense that over-tightening will cause it too flex. The owner's manual explicitly states to not over-tighten for this reason. With the adjustment screws set properly and the set screw snugged down, my plate is dead-flat.

      As for the paint wearing off- I agree with everyone that shouldn't happen on a brand new tool. Don't let Dave's negative comments get to you- he's constantly bashing the 3650- seems like a glass-is-half-empty person. Hope this helps!

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      • #4
        I do not care about the paint comming off, the less orange the better. I did not know the design is to move the plate to the rear of the saw when it is tightened. The bt3000 I have is flat when tightened and the old sears saw I had just snapped in. I liked the old design better.

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        • #5
          I have also had a problem with the plate bending. When I left the screw loose enough to prevent plate warpage it tended to back out of the hole. I found 2 small washers that stacked together are just the right thickness to take up the room between the plate and the top. I placed them under the plate so that the screw goes through them and tightened the screw firmly. Problem solved. When you remone the plate the washers stay in place. [img]tongue.gif[/img]

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          • #6
            Yogi----I WILL make comments when I feel they are appropiate. No, I don't own one and if I'd made the (IMO) mistake of buying one, I'd be taking it back. Geeeesssh! Do you have to make modifications, repears or excuses for every new item you buy? I don't mind tightening a loose bolt or two or replacing a plastic knob that may have broken----but all these reports, and what I've seen myself----To me, thats denial-----and, I do own Emerson products and am very disappointed that the new owners aren't continuing the Emerson/Ridgid tradition of quality. And, no, the old insert never flexed when installed.
            Dave

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            • #7
              Dave,
              I have no problem with opinions, but I really think you've been bashing the saw without owning it and that doesn't give a fair view to perspective buyers. I'm perfectly happy with mine- call it denial or ignorance-is-bliss or whatever, but I highly doubt that I'll be replacing my fence with a $250 Biesemeyer anytime soon- my saw already came with an excellent fence!

              As to the motor- remember that there is a lifetime warranty right now or at least a 3 year warranty which will usually be used to cover items that fail very soon. If someone manages to wear out their motor after 3 years of heavy use, they can always purchase a brand new Emerson 1.5hp motor from Grizzly for $150 (model G5009) or upgrade to a cabinet saw or whatever is appropriate. Also, my Ridgid drill press motor doesn't say Emerson on it and it's one of the "old" models, plus it's made oversees. Does that mean I should freak out and return it? No, the sky is not falling, it's right where it always has been.

              The other deficencies are just that and not a reason to prevent purchase of the saw. Compare it to the other models out there. You won't find anything comparable (other than Grizzly, not including S&H, less warranty etc) for the price. Not to mention the fact that many of the other saws feel like they were designed in 1982, they are all made oversees (just like everything, including all the old Ridgid tools I bought) now. Read the reviews for Delta, Jet, Dewalt, and Powermatic on Amazon and you'll find people pointing out problems just like you are here. That doesn't mean they aren't nice saws, it just means that someone decided to voice their complaint while dozens if not hundreds of other satisfied owners are at home using the saw (hopefully!).

              My point of arguing with you is to provide a fair view of the product- there are two sides to a coin! Once I get some good use from the saw, I'll try to write a fair review (even if that means agreeing with you!) to help other perspective buyers like I was helped while deciding. And then eventually, I'll drift away from this forum and spend all my time focusing on myself and my hobbies.

              Comment


              • #8
                The washer idea seems that it will work. Thanks for the idea. i will try it this weekend.

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                • #9
                  I am new to ridgid woodworking tools, i own a lot of there plumbing tools and was dedicated to dewlt and delta, i made some extra money that the wife did not know about and went out and bought the ts3650, everything about the saw from the instructions on putting it together to the operation of the saw was very helpful, as for the saws performance , well lets just say i replace all my tools with Ridgid, i got the 18 volt stuff ( much better than dewalt,makita,milwaukee,porta cable and so on) the saw operates just the way i expected it too.
                  Just my opinion

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                  • #10
                    The insert is stamped steel then painted, of course it's not going to be flat. Though it is pretty easy to set blocks under the ends and push the center one way or another to get the insert some what flat. Now getting the insert flush with a table top that isn't very flat is another problem. I have better luck making my own inserts out of wood then sanding them to match the table top.

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                    • #11
                      Do you add screws to level the plate and what kind of wood works best?

                      [ 11-21-2003, 09:56 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Benedetto ]

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                      • #12
                        I have used both plywood and hardwood either will do the job. I drilled and tapped 4 holes into the corners of the step where the insert sits. I make the inserts out of 1/4 thick wood. The depth of the step is about .230 so then I sand it down so it sits flush with my table top. I drill and counter sunk holes in the inserts to match the tapped holes. The insert sit nice and flat and four screws hold it in place real nice. I do not recommend doing this unless you know how to drill and tap holes. I'm a machinist so it was easy for me. There is a post just below this one that has better and easier ways of making inserts then mine. Topic: Zero Clearance Dado Inserts
                        Thier ideas will work the same for a insert for your saw blade.

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                        • #13
                          I made my zero clearance insert out of walnut. Two coats tung oil and wax. Figure might as well make it look good. I know there will probably be a difference in the summer and will probably have to sand it flush with table top again, or at least adjust it for flush. Thinking about doing walnut inserts for the wings as well.
                          I like my new 3650 and lifetime warranty.

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                          • #14
                            Guys read the manual for adjusting the throat plate. I know its like asking directions but it will make the plate very user friendly if you understand it. We all tend to over tighten things and that works against you here. Personally I keep the front of the plate just below the table surface and the rear jus a hair high to avoid catching any wood fiber at either end. The adjusting set screws on the plate allow for that. I do make my own plates out of wood for Dados and specialty cuts. Use the one supplied with the saw for for a template and your router table with a pattern bit and you can make yourself a stock of plates ready to go.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Guys read the manual for adjusting the throat plate. I know its like asking directions but it will make the plate very user friendly if you understand it. We all tend to over tighten things and that works against you here. Personally I keep the front of the plate just below the table surface and the rear jus a hair high to avoid catching any wood fiber at either end. The adjusting set screws on the plate allow for that. I do make my own plates out of wood for Dados and specialty cuts. Use the one supplied with the saw for for a template and your router table with a pattern bit and you can make yourself a stock of plates ready to go.

                              Comment

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