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  • zero clearance insert

    am i the only one disapointed in the Ridgid zero clearance insert? a flimsy piece of plastic? this surprises me coming from a company known for it's quality well built tools. why skimp on the accessories? i for one would have spent a few dollars more for an insert from ridgid which meets the quality standards the name implies
    \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

  • #2
    I was about to buy one for my saw before I struck a deal to get a 2400 for the jobsite....looking forward to getting it very soon (and he's sending an insert with it, I think). Anyway, I have seen them made of Phenolic resin, but they never list the Ridgid in the specs....I'm wondering if I need to get one for the shop, would I buy the Craftsman 10" version?
    Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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    • #3
      You might try making your own inserts out of scrap hardwood. I make two a time so as to be able to run the wood through the planer for accurate thickness. Gives the saw a nice appearance too.

      Phil

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      • #4
        I was a bit disappointed at the apparent cheap plastic quality when I first saw them... I ordered 2 online so I did not get a chance to look at them first. However, I have not had a chance to test them yet so I will wait until then to make my decision. One nice thing is that if they work well, they are cheap enough to have quite a few of them for many different angles and dado thicknesses.

        I do have one from Leecraft (model CR-1) that fits my TS2424 well. I purchased at Woodcraft, but Amazon also carries them. It is a made out of what appears to be phenolic with some type of HDPE or melanine top. Good quality, costs about $22.00.

        [ 01-11-2003, 11:13 PM: Message edited by: MarkR ]
        Mark

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        • #5
          I have had mine since they were available and it works great! For the price, I plan to have many on-hand.

          I think Ridgid has a great idea. They are not "cheap" in quality. What does a zero-clearance inset do other than enclose the space along side the blade. Do you need 1/2" solid oak with a pretty laminate to accomplish that? No.

          I think Ridgid has made the insert "cheap" enough in price to make it VERY accessible to all users. Might even be priced where someone who wouldn’t spend $25 for safety might give this a try.

          Who knows? I like it!

          JMHO
          rick
          <a href=\"http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx\" target=\"_blank\">http://photos.yahoo.com/rixworx</a>

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          • #6
            I use both the Ridgid Zero Clearance and the Forrest on my 3612. The Forrest is much more robust, inexpensive, but both work fine. You will need several eventually, so try both.

            Good luck

            http://www.forrestblades.com/zeroclearnce.htm

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            • #7
              I just started using the zero clearance insert last week when I was cutting some oak plywood. I had no problems at all. To me, it didn't look cheap as there was plenty of support ridges underneath. Th only thing that bothered me was the noise the blade made as it spun. (Then again, if it didn't rub, it wouldn't be a zero clearance.)

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              • #8
                Mike
                You can take that rubbing out of the zero clearance by filing the groove a bit. Doesn't effect performance and sounds better! Dave

                [ 01-13-2003, 07:54 AM: Message edited by: DaveM ]

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                • #9
                  The Ridgid ZCI fits pretty loosely in the slot. To remove the rubbing just move the ZCI around in the slot while the saw is running.

                  I don't care for the Ridgid ZCIs. They are very flimsy especially when they've been fully cut (raising blade all the way).

                  They work well for what they are but not well enough to justify the cost.

                  I made a template that fits perfectly in the slot. Now I use a template bit to make my own. They fit better, sit flatter, and flex less. Not to mention they're much cheaper and look much better.

                  Now I have one for every blade. I hang each one with it's blade and write the blade name on the bottom.

                  Eventually I plan to make one for the most common dado sizes I use( 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" ).

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                  • #10
                    I was at the wood craft store in Dayton Ohio. I saw some zero clearance insert with a repalceable (sp) wood strip. They was also some inserts made by Leecraft. I have used Lee craft I love them.
                    Andy B.

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                    • #11
                      Do the after market zero clearance inserts have a retainer clip on the bottom out feed end or how do you retain them in a the saw??? I have never seen anything but the current Ridgid inserts…
                      Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\"http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>

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                      • #12
                        I got my ZCI from Rigid a few days ago and it works fine and I have no problems with it..I guess each one of us has his own opion as to what will suffice...

                        Allen [img]smile.gif[/img]

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                        • #13
                          I found a great use for the zero clearance insert I got with my 3612 - use it as a template to make your own out of 1/4 inch plywood. After the slot is cut, glue on a piece of any kind of scrap to stiffen. Masking tape to raise it, or sandpaper to lower it. Works great, and can't be cheaper.

                          I have far more trouble removing the zero clearance insert out than worrying about them lifting on the outfeed side. And the screw slot can go to the front (easier to make) rather than a keyhole slot to the back, as the standard units.

                          Note that old (recycled) 1/4 inch plywood is 1/4 inch, and a near perfect fit. The new 1/4 inch plywood is thinner, and needs to be shimmed. Maybe I will try duct tape instead of masking tape when I run out of the thicker 1/4 inch plywood.

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