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  • #16
    Just a quick note on a recent discovery...

    I was using a large, heavy gauge, piece of steel for the dummy piece... It was getting very cruddy with a lot of build-up and was ready for another grinding to get it clean again...

    I saw a large Tomato Juice can in the trash... the kind that are about 10" high 3.5" dia....

    There were already holes punched in top... I punched holes (with chuch key) into the other end, rinsed it out good, and started using it as the dummy!

    I insert it on-end with the + clip around the edge & a hole... water goes in holes to keep it from floating in the solution.

    Works great!! When one end gets messed up, I turn it over for more, then, it's thrown away (into the recycle bin) when done! I'm collecting the large cans now! (again)

    I also found an old cat Litter Box... rinsed it off... works GREAT for short saw blades and other smaller items!!

    Just thought you would like to know...
    Have FUN! Joe ... www.woodworkstuff.net ..... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showg...0&ppuser=1389/

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    • #17
      Tried to 'edit' last post... could NOT figure how to do it.

      Anyway...

      Dummy = Anode (+)...
      Piece to be Derusted = Cathode (-)

      Sorry, Joe
      Have FUN! Joe ... www.woodworkstuff.net ..... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showg...0&ppuser=1389/

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      • #18
        Re: Surface Rust

        I tried to go to the link about Rust Removal but it's not working.......redirect error

        Anyway - here is a great article on Removing Rust.
        http://mymilescity.com/diy-maintenan...move_rust.html

        If you'd rather you can watch a video about it as well -
        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAOEWzGUGqM

        Good Luck!
        Measure TWICE - Cut ONCE! 'Cause the Lumber Stretcher is broken!
        I'd throw more things away, but I'm afraid someone might want them...
        My DIY and HOW To Articles and Videos

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        • #19
          Re: Surface Rust

          This is more of a preventive for rust than a removal. I use on a regular basis a silicon spray on all of my surfaces to protect from rust and also makes wood slide smoothly. Paste wax is great, but to me alot of mess. You can purchase silicon spray with teflon in it also and I find it at all local hardware stores. It's primary use is for squeaky hinges etc.
          Just a thought for anyone.
          Dan J B

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          • #20
            Re: Surface Rust

            DJbbus, silicon on a woodworking tool is generally a no-no. The silicon will wear onto the wood you're sliding over it, and leave fish-eye marks on the wood. These marks will drive you crazy when you go to stain and/or finish. This is the reason most of us use paste wax instead of car waxes. Paste wax has no silicon in it. If you're not doing anything furniture grade, you probably have never noticed it. I do a lot of hand-rubbed finishes and the silicon left numerous huge marks on the wood. Since I've got it all off and use only Boshield and Johnson's paste wax, I no longer have those problems. I will usually treat the saw tops once or twice a year, and wax about every other month.

            Just wanted to give you a head's-up before you made the critical errors I've made in the past!!
            I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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            • #21
              Re: Surface Rust

              Here is a short video on rust removal with common products. Covers deep and shallow rust removal: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAOEWzGUGqM

              You just need WD40, fine steel wool and perhaps some fine emery cloth. Works like a charm and leaves a bright, slippery finish.
              Measure TWICE - Cut ONCE! 'Cause the Lumber Stretcher is broken!
              I'd throw more things away, but I'm afraid someone might want them...
              My DIY and HOW To Articles and Videos

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: Surface Rust

                I never put anything on a tool table that I wouldn't put on the wood before I finish it. So for me, that rules out WD-40, wax of any type, silicone products, etc.

                I hit the table tops every 6 months or as needed with an air jitterbug or 1/4 sheet sander with some worn-out (so as not to waste good) 150 or 220 grit paper. Then, wipe down with paint thinner and blow dry. Except my Delta lunchbox planer, which has stainless infeed & outfed tables.... just wipe any accumulated resin or grunge off with lacquer thinner and plane away.

                Easy, fast, no expense, no risk.

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                • #23
                  Re: Surface Rust

                  Removal of rust in the plumbing of the house. I have used Iron Ike Rust Remover and it works like a charm well the house owner has bought it so they let me used it to make my work easier.

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                  • #24
                    Re: Surface Rust

                    After this past winter I discovered my table saw and joiner were 'knee deep' in surface rust and was I P*SSED! I had cleaned the tables and wings carefully and coated them with a high quality paste wax before I put them up for the winter in my unheated shop. I have always in the past used spray Teflon spray on my old non-cast table saw with no problems at all. After using scotchbrite pads and mineral spirits to clean off the rust I used a generous coating of my favorite Teflon lube and have not has any trouble with rust. No more paste wax for me, Teflon spray (not silicone) is what I'll use from now on.
                    Last edited by ranchome; 05-29-2009, 11:59 PM.

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                    • #25
                      Re: Surface Rust

                      I treat my table tops with Rain-X. Talk about a sealed and super slippery surface. Also, it does not contaminate the materials that are sliding over it. It also works great on hard surface mouse pads for gaming.

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