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Surface Rust

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  • Surface Rust

    I'm sure this has been talked about before but, I'm getting surface rust on the castiron top of the tablesaw and was wondering what you guys do to remove and prevent this. Thanks in advance.

  • #2

    Look at this post for rust protection .

    It is impossible to make anything foolproof because fools are so ingenious.


    • #3
      Thanks Jerry, That answers my question.


      • #4
        Just discovered this stuff...and it is AWESOME!!!


        • #5

          A few questions if you don't mind:

          How long have you been using it?
          Which variety are you using?
          What is the cost?

          Other than awesome, what comments do you have regarding the results of this product?


          • #6
            Well I JUST bought a can. Cost me about 12 bucks. I was skeptical so i took an old chip breaker that was nice and rusty from a garage sale plane i restored. I sprayed it down and left it overnight. Next day 80% of the rust was gone. Wiped it down and it leaves no residue.

            I have not used it on my tops yet as they still have a good cover of topcote. I did however use them on the barrel that the jointer knives go in as it was getting rusty and it worked GREAT.

            I use it on my plumbing tools and have used it to clean up some rust on some of my pliers and such that have gotten some surface rust on them.

            Very impressive product.

            I got mine from a friend that is a snap-on dealer.

            I believe bumper 2 bumper sells it as well.

            I have dealt with several different corrosion treatment and prevention products in the military being an avionics tech.

            This stuff is the BEST I have ever used!!!!!

            The absolute best.


            • #7

              Does the product from Lear contain petroleum products?

              Bob R


              • #8

                synthetic and organic hydrocarbons.

                Nothing on the MSDS says anything about petroleum based. And it is considered "non toxic"


                This is a pretty incredible product.

                Safe on plastic, rubber, etc. It displaces water. You can spray it into your pneumatic guns, I dropped my cordless drill in a bucket of water over the weekend and used this stuff. Restored it. Works fine!

                I personally still like bostik topcote, but will use this to remove any corrosion and clean the tops of my tools if needed.

                I am going to try it on my bandsaw table. that is the least used right now and i can use some scrap wood to test it out. I will report back. But so far, this stuff has impressed me!


                • #9
                  Thanks for the response and look forward to the results of your finishing test.

                  Bob R


                  • #10
                    I go the cheap & easy route.
                    Spray down the cast iron top with wd-40 & rub the rust spots off with scotch brite pad. Wipe off wd-40 & use paste wax to finish.
                    This has worked well for me, the wax keeps rust from forming & lets wood slide easily.


                    • #11
                      Yeah the WD-40 or mineral spirits and a scrubby pad work. As does the paste wax. Paste wax builds up.

                      It has to be stripped and waxed every so often. In the long run i doubt it is either cheap or easy, compared to products like BostiK Topcote which last longer than wax.

                      The bostik product, in my opinion is also slicker than wax.
                      \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL


                      • #12
                        I have had my TS3612 for 4 years and wax it a few times a year. (more in the summer when my sweat is getting on the top) I have not noticed any build up.
                        You say you must strip the wax but the Bostik last longer. That would seem to imply that the Bostik would build up faster?

                        I agree that if you buy a used TS that had alot of rust my method would not be effective, but for new saw maintenance this is very effective. No worries about doing it wrong and discoloring saw.

                        [ 06-06-2005, 10:35 AM: Message edited by: Razorback ]


                        • #13
                          I don't know why it is, but the Bostik Topcote does not seem to build up. YOu spray it on, wait just a few minutes and "buff" with a clean cloth. I am not doing it nearly as much as I was when I was using wax.

                          Just my experience

                          \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL


                          • #14
                            I recently added a new section to my goodie collection called:
                            Rust Removal using Electrolysis

                            I don't think you'd want to dunk a TS table top, etc. but it's good for what you can fit into a bucket, etc. It does wonders!

                            Be sure to read All links before trying it.

                            I have been testing it for the last 2 weeks... will update the Page when done.

                            [ 08-18-2005, 12:49 PM: Message edited by: Joe Lyddon ]
                            Have FUN! Joe ... ..... My Small Gallery:


                            • #15
                              I have been using it (Electrolysis) ever since my post, etc.
                              The charger has been going all the time!

                              I have not 'nailed' the procedure yet... maybe I will never 'nail' it because of so many variables.

                              My neighbor had a 20" diamond saw blade that was badly rusted; ruined... junk... worth (to him, $135).
                              I talked him into letting me try electrolysis on it...
                              IT TOOK FOREVER!!
                              I am using a 5 gal. plastic elongated bucket which is very strong and held that blade to where exactly 1/2 of it went into the solution...
                              It foamed for a LONG time... The rust comes OFF of the Subject and is Attracted to the Dummy Steel (+ piece)... as a result, the more rust it attracts, the less 'action' becomes because the conductivity of the circuit is reduced...
                              I found that I had to brush the dummy quite often to keep the action happening... THEN taking it out, drying it off, scraping the collected rust, etc. off followed by using an electric 4" hand grinder to get it really clean. I had a long piece where I could flip it and use the other end before cleaning it up... After the clean-up AND replacing the solution with a new mix, it would taake off foaming, etc. really good... the more rust that was removed, went to the dummy, slowed the action, etc.

                              I had the saw blade going from end to end... with the dummy steel in the middle... The side closest to the dummy got the best action... eventually had to turn the blade around, etc. to continue working on the blade.

                              I'll bet it took 3-4 weeks before I felt the main blade was smooth enough to be used again. I took it out, WASHED IT OFF WITH SOAP N WATER, DRIED IT, AND THE USED A WIRE BRUSH TO TOUCH UP OTHER SPOTS LIKE AROUND THE EDGES, ETC.

                              It left grey spots here n there over the blade but there was NO RUST... smooth as glass.

                              Smaller things like pliers, small saw blades, calipers, etc. (small stuff) tend to work much faster and better!! It depends on the size and how much rust is present. It could take anywhere from 4 hrs. to 4 days or longer.

                              The thing I like best is it removes all of the rust, etc. to where tou can read all of the fine printed text in the metal, Brand, model#, etc. perfectly!! If steel wool or other abrasive were used, it would remove some of the text... electrolysis does not...!!

                              Perfect for metal rulers from squares where you want to keep the small lines, numbers, etc.

                              Electrolysis does not make it look as good as NEW like I thought it would. From a usefullnes view point, it works beautifully; from a beauty standpoint, NOT.

                              I want to experiment with cleaning / polishing with special fine stuff (Bartender's cleaner wife uses or Rottenstone, etc.) to see if makes things LOOK better.

                              It's hard to predict what will happen, when it will happen, and how it will happen...

                              It needs to be experimented with at your own risk... to get a feel for it, etc.

                              I can say that it works... but very differently depending on the piece being used.

                              Read all of the information about it... Be very careful... You have to use special cautions using electricity (even though very low volts, etc.) to avoid any other possible problems (so far so good).

                              YOU MUST BE VERY CAREFUL USING IT...

                              It looks like it will take a while before I can really present a real conclusion on the subject.

                              Have at it... It's really simple... Unpredictable.
                              Have FUN! Joe ... ..... My Small Gallery: