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  • snipe problems please help?

    i just got my ridgid planer 2 days ago. i ran 5 2 foot boards through it and all of them snipe the first and last 2 inches of the board. i checked all the adjustments and the only thing i can see unusual is the pivoting area of the tables are not level with the center chrome plate. and there does not seem to be a way to adjust that. any ideas?

  • #2
    I also got my new planer about a week ago now.

    The first board I ran through also had snipe. Then, I realized that I had NOT locked the carriage. Locking it produced very good results.

    Also, if the dust collector chute clogs up, you will get chips thrown into the machine, towards the infeed table and it will make the rollers slip and make the workpiece skew around. That will also cause bad results.

    My tables also are not parallel along their full length to the bed. I also wonder if this is a manufacturing defect. There only seems to be the couple of adjustment screws at either end of the table extensions and they just control the angle of the table. I would have thought there would be a way to adjust the height, as well as the angle, to perfectly align the in/out feed tables with the bed.

    Any comments on this from Ridgid?

    ....Peter

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    • #3
      If you search the history of these message boards you will see where this topic is covered several times by Jake. His replies may give you more info, but I wil try to summorize. The tables are not supposed to line up with the planer at the center. The instructions tell you to put a straight edge accross the center portion of the table and level the outside edges of the infeed and outfeed tables. I assume this is because it would be difficult to make the infeed and outfeed tables perfectly parallel.

      As far as snipe goes, I have tried all of the suggestions listed on this and other message boards and have never been able to eliminate it completely. However, if the planer is set up correctly it can be minimized. The main recommendation I would have is to make sure you support the board, especially if it is very long and heavy on the infeed and outfeed side. The weight of the board with make the end drop and cause snipe. The other recommendation I have is don't cut your boards to length until they are planed. Even thought many people say you can sand out small amounts of snipe, I have never been able to sand it to a point where it can not be noticed.

      Good Luck

      Chris

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      • #4
        after double checking the tables they are in fact level when you use a straight edge like the manual describes.one thing im confused on. is snipe when too much is cut from the edge or not enough? because what is hapening is its planing too much on the first and last two inches of the board. and the board is 1/2x6x24 inches.

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        • #5
          Snipe is when the ends of the board are cut smaller than the body. Your snipe is caused when only one feed roller is grabbing the board. On my planer (a different model), if the bed is not waxed well this will happen every time. Easy thing to try is waxing the bed.

          Dave

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          • #6
            i found that my blades were off (and one was cracked) while i was having this problem. to a lesser degree i found the problem with the way i worked the wood through it (speed, consistency, etc) my advice is to evaluate all these issues on your end and work them one at a time.

            good luck
            \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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            • #7
              Here's how you get around the snipe problems. When cutting the board to length, add two inches on each end, then cut off the snipes. Other way is to feed another board in first and one after the piece to be planed, this way the first and last boards will be sniped and the one in the middle that counts will not. I've used both methods and they work well. Since the rollers engage the board one at a time eliminating snipe altogether is very hard to do on any portable planer.

              You can also attach two runner strips (one on each side of the board that are longer than the workpiece) out of scrap wood.
              Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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              • #8
                thanks for all the replies. i will try all these ideas. my woodworking knowledge has vastly improved so if anyone has a question maybe i can help too.

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                • #9
                  Although adding 2 inches to the board and cutting off the snipe is a perfectly acceptable and a solution to the problem, I have found that if the blades are sharpened properly and evenly, and set up properly, snipe isnt an issue. I am new to using a jointer and i was having some snipe issues when i first set it up but after fixing a blade issue and getting it set up properly, the snipe vanished.
                  \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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                  • #10
                    i too have a jointer and it cuts perfectly. but for the life of me no mater how i adjust it i cant get the snipe to stop without using some sort of trick or device. i wonder if its something wrong with my particular machine.

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                    • #11
                      Another trick to reduce snipe is to feed the board at an angle. You can also reduce snipe by feeding boards nose to tail through the planer.

                      gator

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                      • #12
                        Candyman

                        I personally would not venture to imply there is something wrong with your machine, but i can say in the case of mine, my snipe was apparently caused by the improper alignment of my blades.

                        It seems that if one blade is not adjusted at the same height as the others as the board gets toward the end and clears the infeed table, that last little bit might "drop" because one or more blades are to high or two low.

                        the other thing that might cause it is not all the blades sharpened at the same angle? this is just a hunch as this was not a problem for me.

                        As far as the post saying to "feed the boards at an angle" how exactly do you mean? If feeding at an angle wont the board end up being planed uneven?

                        ed
                        \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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                        • #13
                          Would the word 'skew' be a better choice? Instead of feeding the board straight in (perpendicular to the knives) just skew it a bit (15° or so).

                          gator

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                          • #14
                            I used a knife setting jig to check them and the blades are brand new. well now i use a 1/2 piece of stock with a cleat on the infeen side placed in the planer. this has ended my problem. and since i dont plane stock anywhere nere the max depth this is no promlem.

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                            • #15
                              We gently take hold of the board as it starts to come out of the planer, and carefully continue the movement so that it continues straight as it finishes planing. With no tip, there is no snipe. After a few boards this process becomes very natural and easy, so we have virtually eliminated snipe.

                              If the board tips, even a tiny amount, as it emerges, there is snipe, as one would expect from understanding what causes snipe on the trailing edge of the board.

                              We have never had a particular problem with snipe on the beginning of the cut, but we are careful to insert the boards straight.

                              Of course, the in and out tables must be perfectly aligned. The table under the cutters must be clean and waxed. (Be sure to check the table - ours accumulates gunk, apparently from the end-grain sealer on some hardwood.)

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