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  • a good assembly hammer....

    i currently use a snap on dead blow hammer to assemble my projects. works well but on occasion i need to use a scrap to preveent it from marring. i know they make wooden mallets i have not been impressed with. i just came across these. would these work well?http://www.thorhammer.com/rawhideham.htm
    \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

  • #2
    It's not hard to make your own mallet with some scrap wood. It doesn't have to be pretty.
    www.TheWoodCellar.com

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    • #3
      i had thought about that.....and i guess that brings up a woodworking 101 question. hickory (or harder) for the handle is a no brainer, but what would be the best choice for the head? harder woods, softer woods, etc,

      i have considered buying a 4X4 and cutting it to lenght, squaring the edges obviously. then thohgbt about chamfering the corners. i dont have a lathe so it would not be round.

      the link in my previous post interested me, and i was just curious as to how rawhide would work/stand up?

      ed
      \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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      • #4
        I made my last one out of oak, I have a lot of oak logs. It's worked fine since I work mostly with oak. I cant say how it would work with softer woods since I haven't tried it on softer woods.
        www.TheWoodCellar.com

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        • #5
          I also use the red plastic Snap-on deadblow without a problem. A freind of mine makes his own mallets out of wood. he uses hickory or oak for the handles and pine for the heads. They work great and last for a pretty good while. He told me that he tried oak for the heads and it was too hard, it would dent softer woods.
          info for all: http://www.hoistman.com http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/index....wwtoolinfoforu --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."

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          • #6
            A leather head mallet is just the ticket for what you want. Rare that mone ever leaves a mark...
            Support Our Troops!
            www.mnpatriotguard.org
            www.patriotguard.org

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            • #7
              i aggree with the snap on dead blow but is oange
              \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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              • #8
                Ed, Red is prettier.LOL I have had mine for about 15 years now. Also have a 10lb that I use for work.
                info for all: http://www.hoistman.com http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/index....wwtoolinfoforu --- "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me."

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                • #9
                  The two dead blow hamsters I have from Harbor Fright work just fine for my purposes. One is a 2-pounder and the other is a 5-lb. The big one has always proven to be total overkill for putting wood joints into a "behovorial" mode
                  --Steve<BR>www.ApacheTrail.com

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                  • #10
                    snap on has receintly came out with a dead blow with replacacable striking surfaces. HPT-16
                    a 16 oz rubber on both ends. i am considering picking up the hspd16, one side steel the other rubber dead blow. come in handy for those times when you are using your chisel to fine tune a fit, you can use your steel side on the chisel, and then flip it ove so you have the dead blow for assembly. and too that way the soft face remains unmarred/nick/cut/scrape free
                    \"A SHIP OF WAR IS THE BEST AMBASSADOR\"<br /><br />OLIVER CROMWELL

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Steve 'n Putz:
                      The two dead blow hamsters I have
                      No comment [img]tongue.gif[/img]
                      Lorax
                      "Did you put the yellow key in the switch?" TOD 01/09/06

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                      • #12
                        Hi all

                        I use an Estwing hammer that has replaceable, varying density, removeable rubber heads( it is a two sided hammer, and color safe. It doesn't leave either color or marks on the material. I bought it at Lowes about 6 yrs ago.

                        I have had to gently pursuade wood and cabinets or filler pieces on cabinets and it has performed extremely well. Just another option IMO.

                        Also I use it when I use my chisels, I am a fanatic about my chisels, and I personally wouldn't use a metal hammer on them. I keep them sharp and hollow ground, and with the high density rubber end on my hammer there isn't any wear on the end of my chisel.


                        Happy woodworking guys

                        [ 01-09-2005, 08:27 AM: Message edited by: hammerman ]

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                        • #13
                          Re: a good assembly hammer....

                          I use a double sided hammer thats been in my box for 6+ years.

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                          • #14
                            Re: a good assembly hammer....

                            I have a small two headed hammer for 'coaxing' smaller things into place. Both heads are about 1" in diameter. One side is plastic and is good on end grain taps, but I also use it for chisel work so I don't mash the chisel handles. The other side is rubber and doesn't leave a mark or scuff anywhere. I'd equate it to a leather faced mallet in terms of strike.

                            I also have a 2 pound, white rubber mallet for more aggressive negotiations, such as very tight fitting dados or trying to move a sliding dovetail or something where the glue has started to firm up...

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                            • #15
                              Re: a good assembly hammer....

                              Originally posted by sdrslr View Post
                              The two dead blow hamsters I have from Harbor Fright
                              I'll ck the pet store for a few of those! LOL


                              Mark
                              Congratulations to Mr. "the sky is falling" Al Gore, nominated the new Village Idiot!

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