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  • #16
    [quote]Originally posted by MSchenker:
    Talking about alternative methods, I really like jointing on the router table: I get more visibility on the cut, allowing me to see exactly what I'm removing and seeing if the stock is drifting away from the fence. Also, jointing edges with the face down is a much more comfortable position. Of course, this system has its limits, as I cannot face joint.
    How much deflection do you get on the router as jointer? I get about 1/32 over 8 feet but that may be due to the fact that the router fence is only 2 feet long. I was thinking of making a new set of fences to the total width was about 4 feet.
    thanks
    gary

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    • #17
      How much deflection do you get on the router as jointer? I get about 1/32 over 8 feet but that may be due to the fact that the router fence is only 2 feet long. I was thinking of making a new set of fences to the total width was about 4 feet.
      To eliminate deflection, I use the largest straight bit possible. The bit in my table right now is one from MLCS with a 1 1/2" diameter and a 1 1/4" cut length (model #7786, http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../bt_strai.html

      You mentioned making a new set of fences, but this may not be necessary. I disagree with the assertion that your fence needs to be 48" to joint 8' boards. My Incra fence is about 30" long and I have successfully jointed 8' boards on it. Of course, I use infeed and outfeed support for those longer boards.

      By the way, just so you know what I mean when I say I have "successfully jointed 8' boards." For every glue-up, I test my edge joints by holding them together just with hand pressure and shining a bright halogen light from the other side of the joint. If I can see light through the joint, it's not good enough for me. Believe me, if you don't see light through a joint, its as close to perfect as you're going to get with wood!

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      • #18
        Ba-doyn

        Here is an attempt to describe the method I have come up with, it is somewhat of a PITA but provides perfect width dados. I had purchased a verity package of the bar guide clamps (they look something like this http://mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_...s/boomclm.html ) at a WW show and thought there must be a way to utilize these for that purpose. I clamp one (we’ll call this one the reference clamp) the furthest from the desired dado location. I then place some scraps from the desired width dado stock (we’ll just use something under ¾ inch ply as an example) snuggly between the reference clamp and what we’ll call the movable clamp. Now run your router down the movable clamp with a ½” bit in it. Now remove the scrap and replace it with some material the exact diameter of your bit, (it could be setup blocks, plastic or scraps you have milled to that exact size) and snug the movable clamp up. Now you have effectively moved your reference the exact distance of the difference between your bit diameter and your desired width, run your router and you will have the perfect size dado. This could also work with only one clamp, but you would need longer pieces of materials and need to find a way to secure them to the reference clamp.

        Woodslayer

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