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Splinter free plywood jig

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  • Splinter free plywood jig

    Hi, everyone. I'm new to the forum, and relatively ne to WW. I have a question about ripping plywood into workable size. I made a 48" jig last night. Is there a trick to making the cuts perfectly square? The layout of the pieces I need, are such that I don't have much room for error, or waste. I just know me, and being human there is lots of room for error, from marking and lining the jig up to the marks, then clamping, and sawing. Anyway a little about myself. I have a 2424, soon to be a 3612, I've had it almost a year, only one project last year, It has come in handy with all the home improvements though!! That's it for now any suggestions or direction would be much appreciated. Andrew
    The jig is for breaking down sheets with a circ.
    and to get the most out of the sheets, with my layout leaving little to no scrap to play with. Consequently, leaving 1/2" per cut to clean up on TS is not a luxury.

    [ 02-13-2003, 04:14 PM: Message edited by: Andrew H ]

  • #2
    Andrew

    Oldham sells a real good blywood blade for a circular saw. Should run less than $20.

    Cut good side down with your circular saw, and you should have a clean cut with this blade. I do.

    As to getting square cuts. Use a stiff straight edge.
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    • #3
      I like the straight-edge clamp (forgot the make, but it's pretty easy to pick out of the catelogs), you line it up and clamp down while holding in place. A whole lot easier that trying to get the edge to stay still while you tighten down the C-clamps.

      I have not tried it, but I suppose you could put some 1/4 inch ply as a backer board to try to reduce chipping.

      [ 02-13-2003, 06:57 PM: Message edited by: Jerry Jensen ]

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      • #4
        I tried an Oldham plywood blade on my 3/4" maple ply stock (mounted on new Mag 77 and using TruGrip cutting edge from Rockler.) It burned in less than 6". The 40T Freud blade that I'm using now has cut 100+ feet with minimal splintering.

        I'll save the 10" Oldham blade for cutting PVC pipe unless I can find the sales slip.

        Later, Curt

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        • #5
          I now cut all case goods on my TS...too much tear out even with so called nice Circ saw blades. I am going to move the rails on mine as soon as I can get the Mule router table extension...
          Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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          • #6
            I had great cuts the first few with a brand new blade, and the zero clearance jig, but after a few, the edges sucked. I guess there is no winning.

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            • #7
              You might also try scoring through the outermost layer (maybe 32nd of an inch) with a sharp utility knife.

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              • #8
                Something's not right then...I get perfect edges even with a blade that needs sharpening.
                Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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